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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-25-2005, 08:04 AM   #15136
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inch * 25.4 = mm
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:05 AM   #15137
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http://www.onlineconversion.com/


edit..

if you like to take your laptop with you to the track... don't forget a roll out program such as Rochester's...

Here's a link to a measurement conversion program - it converts just about anything!

http://www.joshmadison.com/software/convert/
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:29 AM   #15138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
for club racing, if you can keep from chunking, i start with then at full height. It will drive ok at the start, but as you get down to about 44/46 (f/r) it will get better. but to start at full height, you get 6month on one set of tires running every weekend.

You mean you dont cut your tires to 43/46 right out of the package??

Lowered pods are the bomb!! Any brand-but I run the new IRS pod with the long left pod (4-screwtop plate). This combined with the IRS set of axle height adjusters, you can liteally run rear tires from 1.90 to 1.65" and never vary more than 0.5mm in ride height the whole life of the tires.

I have been setting my car at just below 4mm at start of day. After the 1st or 2nd qualifier-I drop the axle a 0.5mm and maybe drop it again for the Main-if my cars too close to 3mm. This way I maintain a ~3.5mm ride height all day!!!
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:50 AM   #15139
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ray

you know me I am cheap. cutting it down to 46 is like 3 months of tire you car cutting away.

yeah, those irs ride height adjusters are the ticket, too bad the xenon one that .25mm are way to expensive to buy.
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:26 AM   #15140
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I've never understood those who said that cutting away all of a brand new tire to size it correctly is a waste of money. If the tires came out of the package 4" tall, would you run them that way, too?

12th scale tires work best inside a very specific size window; they handle better, chunk less, are less prone to traction rolls, etc. Leaving them larger out of the package because you are too cheap to use them at their correct size is amusing to me. You see guys all frantic about setups and ride heights and weights and thicknesses of ESC wire to gain any advantage, and yet they will run tires at twice the sidewall height because they can get a few more weekends out of them.


[sarcasm]You know, you guys may be on to some racing cost savings here... I'm going to leave the protective coating on my bodies to make them last a while longer, run the stock brushes in my motors because that's what they gave me, never change diff balls, not cut the comm because it will take too much material life from the arm and make sure the batteries I have in the car work for at least the next year. You only need one pack to race, right?[/sarcasm]

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Old 10-25-2005, 09:30 AM   #15141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
ray

you know me I am cheap. cutting it down to 46 is like 3 months of tire you car cutting away.

yeah, those irs ride height adjusters are the ticket, too bad the xenon one that .25mm are way to expensive to buy.
Yeah-I thought abut maybe gettinge one or two xenon ones around the size tires I usually run-but it changes to fast to make it worthwhile. If they had them at the Hobbyshop and it was what I needed-I might get it. BIg race spending spree!!
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:38 AM   #15142
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Thanks Ray. I actually am getting one of the BMI conversion kits from Jason. I just wanted to get my car together now to start playing with it. I have alot of work to do still. Im actually running a 12LC withe a Yok carpet chassis and L3 front end and center shock. I race in IRS country so everyone is trying to get me to grab Daves car. It's very nice but I have to stay loyal to my team!
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:47 AM   #15143
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bob,

i run the bmi 1/12 and the lowered pod is not the same lowering as the irs one.

apex,

he was looking for opinions. And I do run mine that way. And i guess i am smart enough to make it work. so you have your opinions and I have mine. I guess for you, you would also cut the comm down the the bare min and also shave the tires down to 42mm. becuase that is the race size I use on carpet. but then you only get 2 runs with a 2.5 chassis before they are too small to make ride height. your probably also use the comm killer brushes for each club race as well.

oh also make fun of me. I use all 12 diff balls in my diff and also run the kimbrough diff covers and also put the buds body hole stickers on and shoegoo my wheel wells and run a front bumper.
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:08 AM   #15144
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Can you give me some more detail on the two pod's? Pro's Con's

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:15 AM   #15145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Can you give me some more detail on the two pod's? Pro's Con's

Thanks
Bob-for your 12LC-the IRS 4-screw pod should add steering and more corner speed. More consistency too. Maybe at the cost of some rear bite, but insignificant. On your BMI Conversion-as you know the only rear pod that wil work is the BMI pod.
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:21 AM   #15146
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Thanks, Actually I did not know LOL. I haven't picked it up yet. At the moment I'm trying decide what way to go. I could get a Rug Rat for pretty much the same cost as the BMI. In order to be completely up to date I would need to get a new Axle and hubs as I have the old style two bolt setup. I did have it converted to do 3 bolt rims though. Im veryyyyy inexperienced at 1/12th scale. I tried it once but hated it and I believe it was because I had a car that was a mess and I did not understand how to tune the cars. I want to give it another try.
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:58 AM   #15147
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Bob-elementary stuff here-but a good 12th is all about precision building and repeatability of set-up. ONce youve established a set-up that you like-every week it just about rebuilding it to the same spec.

It takes nothing to screw up a 12th scale. something as simple as slightly overtightening the plastic cup on the pivot ball on the t-plate could have you scratching your head for weeks if left undetected. Same thing with the front end. Too much slop in the kingpins or conversely anything bound up in the front will cause i'll handling. Were not even talking badly bound up.

I just built a L4 for a local guy who doesnt run 12th scale much and he put it in the show at Vegas. Car came home and another drivers been running it (also not a 12th scale driver) and he TQ'd and won the last race with it. TLC in building is key.

If it were any other time of year-you could ship me your car and I'd go through it for you. But the Champs are coming up...and I just got a dog, and my lawn needs raked and........

But I am more than happy to help you! kartchamp20002000@yahoo.com

Ray
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:02 AM   #15148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I've never understood those who said that cutting away all of a brand new tire to size it correctly is a waste of money. If the tires came out of the package 4" tall, would you run them that way, too?

12th scale tires work best inside a very specific size window; they handle better, chunk less, are less prone to traction rolls, etc. Leaving them larger out of the package because you are too cheap to use them at their correct size is amusing to me. You see guys all frantic about setups and ride heights and weights and thicknesses of ESC wire to gain any advantage, and yet they will run tires at twice the sidewall height because they can get a few more weekends out of them.


[sarcasm]You know, you guys may be on to some racing cost savings here... I'm going to leave the protective coating on my bodies to make them last a while longer, run the stock brushes in my motors because that's what they gave me, never change diff balls, not cut the comm because it will take too much material life from the arm and make sure the batteries I have in the car work for at least the next year. You only need one pack to race, right?[/sarcasm]

Hey, Maybe not everyone is as "rich" as you, or maybe not everyone wants to spend their last dollar to try and win a race. Its remarks like yours that makes people leave this great hobby! If you feel that much better then the guys trying to save a buck by making their tires last a bit longer then go race with the pro's so you can get laughed away..... Oh wait, You won't get laught away by the pro's because they know how to behave themselves and understand that the "lesser" gods are the ones keeping this hobby alive!

Now if you were to lose the sarcasm, then maybe people would listen to you but I'm jguessing your just to dumb to understand whats going on in the world.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:02 AM   #15149
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Default Reply to 12th Scale setup

Michael Lufaso has a good page on 12th scale setup check it out:
http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/index.html
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:06 AM   #15150
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Thanks Ray, I think that part of the issues I had before were that I just simply did not understand the car. It wasnt like a buggy where you just changed a shock or camber position and you could wheel it. Now I'm trying to learn it the correct way and actually be able to enjoy running it. It was no fun to have a car that constitantly felt tweaked or would traction roll or would never steer.....you get the idea. I didn't know how to adjust the car.
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