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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-24-2005, 08:47 PM   #15121
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Thanks Bill, I am pretty sure it will only be for the stock class.
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Old 10-24-2005, 08:57 PM   #15122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Thanks Bill, I am pretty sure it will only be for the stock class.
My favorite car for stock is the SpeedMerchant Rev4. CRC Carpet Knife 3.2 is right up there, too. But for your first car any of the new 1/12th cars will be competetive. You can't beat the 12L4 for price and availability, not to mention that you can turn it into any number of other cars with a conversion kit when you want something fancier.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:04 PM   #15123
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Thanks Odpurple, where can I find info on the SpeedMerchant? I have somewhat read about the cars from CRC but have not herd of the other one you mentioned.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:16 PM   #15124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Thanks Odpurple, where can I find info on the SpeedMerchant? I have somewhat read about the cars from CRC but have not herd of the other one you mentioned.
there is a Speedmerchant thread here on RCtech which maybe will lead you to the www.teamspeedmerchant.com site
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:22 PM   #15125
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Thanks Fast!
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:22 PM   #15126
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Default CRC Standard T-Fource for Conversions

Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydo
Definitely go with the 12L4 or the CRC T-Fource to begin with.
Most of all the popular "conversions" you see out are based off the 12L series.
So get going on the 12L4 and when you get better, you can always uprgrade it with a conversion. The BMI for instance.
The T-fource is basically a 12L4 with tube dampers, lowered rear pods and battery braces. Both are easy to work on.
you only get the lowered pods on the 3 CRC team Red Edtion cars. CRC also makes all three of those cars in Basic/Standard editions.

i have been using the CRC standard kits for conversion parts

the basic T-Fource comes with the large diff ring set-up for $149 off the CRC site. you will have a car with the option so set the tweak off the t-bar or off the springs (unitune sytem) like a link car or use both at the same time. if you decide to go the BMI, CRC CK, DP Quad-12, Hyperform, SM Rev3-4, Slapmaster, Hara AH-12, etc, etc. conversion route you'll already have the dampner tubes

the basic CRC T-fource $149 or CK $139 are often not/never considered when i talk to people because they only think or know of the RED versions which are around $225. most only know of the CK. but that seems why the basic CRC versions aren't considered and the more common 12l4 is.

not sure, but i think the $149 CRC is cheaper than the 12L4 average price out there. nothing wrong with a 12L4, i have one, but with CRC lowered plates and dampener tubes installed. that adds about $60 on top the 12L4 price.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:07 PM   #15127
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Ok Crashby...Fire away...
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Old 10-25-2005, 12:40 AM   #15128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
Hey kids!

I have been racing for a while now but mostly 1/10 & 1/8 off-road. I am thinking about racing on the rug this winter and thought I might try the 1/12 scale class. What are the top two choices for cars and what tips and or advice can ya give me.
I have driven both T-Fource and the 12L4. I personally found myself faster with the T-Fouce, but the 12L4 is still a great car. With the T-Fource you get lowered rear pods (which I believe was already mentioned) where as with the 12L4 you have to buy them. I personally think its a sin leaving a tire with a lot of meat still on them (if theres no chunks). I was shocked on how big your tires still are with the standard rear pods You also get the side springs as a tunning option on the T-Fource.

Everyone will tell you both are great cars. It's just up to you.
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Old 10-25-2005, 01:33 AM   #15129
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i am thinking of getting a 1/12 but i am abit puzzeled on what to buy can anyone point me in the right direction and i am not looking at spending to much and doesnt matter if its an older model as i am only 14. and one more question how long do the tyres last roughly

i live in australia
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:02 AM   #15130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xray_fk05
i am thinking of getting a 1/12 but i am abit puzzeled on what to buy can anyone point me in the right direction and i am not looking at spending to much and doesnt matter if its an older model as i am only 14. and one more question how long do the tyres last roughly

i live in australia
Best go for the car you can most easliy get parts for, as there are no bad cars out there. A good choice might be to start of with a used car of one of your fellow racers, who could also help you with your basic setup.
I run my tires for at least three races on carpet. That is for purple fronts and grey rears on a Associated 12L4 running modified motors.
It seems to help with wear if you rotate a set or two of tires during a day of racing. Most important is to stiffen the sidewall of your tires with CA, to avoid chunking (chunks of tires coming off when crashing) and rollovers.

You will find that with a little patience you will become a better driver when you master this class of racing, and have a lot of fun running this relatively less expensive class!
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Old 10-25-2005, 03:10 AM   #15131
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Did someone ever tried 18 gauge (0,8mm2) wire?
That's what I've got laying around, I'm running 4 cells 19T, but I wonder if it will hold up.
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:17 AM   #15132
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I'm going to run a Novak brushless system on carpet. I have a Super Sport 5800 to start with and plan to upgrade to a GTB as soon as I can.

Can anyone recommend gearing to start with?
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:37 AM   #15133
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Ok guys, AE based car, what should my starting tired diameters be for club racing. I'm kind of new to 1/12th scale.
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:59 AM   #15134
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for club racing, if you can keep from chunking, i start with then at full height. It will drive ok at the start, but as you get down to about 44/46 (f/r) it will get better. but to start at full height, you get 6month on one set of tires running every weekend.
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:01 AM   #15135
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Thanks, Now can anyone tell me the US to Metric formula (in to MM)
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