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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-24-2005, 04:27 AM   #15091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
haven't seen any for sale for quite awhile. price coming down over here on premounts made it not worth dealing with doing up my own tires. you may have to contact TRC/Trinity direct and check on availability? or get ahold of GRP in Europe (Italy?) direct they make the 1/12 foams for TRC and Parma
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to do just as you suggest. I'll mail the Trinity/TRC guys first cause i have their refference numbers. If that doesn't pan out i'll try the GRP guys.

Regards
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Old 10-24-2005, 06:28 AM   #15092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
one question about the T-bar.
I know the tweak screws are for you to adjust the tweak. But you can tighten the screws 30% in, 50% in or 100% in and still can balance the car. so what's the difference?
The screws should always contact the chassis.If not,there is no way to set tweak.
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:33 AM   #15093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katana Man
A 15,000+ post single thread simply doesn't work. For example, if you want to see what servos everyone is running in their 12th scale, you can't find it all since the search function doesn't nail down individual fully readable posts... even if you "search within this thread".

This site is active enough to easily have very full and active sub forums.
Search option works great, if you use the advanced option, and then select by 'Show Results By' for 'posts' instead of 'threads', you can find everything you need to know.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:00 AM   #15094
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I set the tweak screws so they just lift of the chassis at "full roll" of the T piece. This means that they will stay in contact with the chasis during normal cornering but it takes some stress off the T piece and the pivot.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:14 AM   #15095
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Where can I find an online version of a manual for the RC12L4? I know I saw one online a while back. Im thinking about getting into 1/12 and like to see how its made up.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:29 AM   #15096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
The Spektrum does not control the voltage to the servos and if your using LiPo it will pass the full voltage to them. I have heard that they catch fire if you do this!!

You need to fit a voltage regulator but i dont have details, i am trying to find out

Cheers
As long as the LiPo goes to the ESC and the ESC connects to the receiver, you should be okay. Most of the popular ESCs reduce the voltage to a level that the receiver and servo can handle (5 or 6 volts usually)
For those using conventional 4 cell packs, I'm working on a solution to the problem. Anyone interested in being a beta tester?
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:10 AM   #15097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooge
For those using conventional 4 cell packs, I'm working on a solution to the problem. Anyone interested in being a beta tester?
A reciever pack solves the problem.
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:37 AM   #15098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Search option works great, if you use the advanced option, and then select by 'Show Results By' for 'posts' instead of 'threads', you can find everything you need to know.
No, sorry that doesn't work because after a few lines of text, it will be cut off with ...

Therefore you can't read the full post nor can you click on it to see it.
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:42 AM   #15099
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i personally love this big long thread, and hope it never goes away. even when im not racing or have a 12th scale, im always reading this thread. theres always something new to read here everyday. Its the only thread i subscribe to that i make a point to read everyday. i need it like my coffee in the morning
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:47 AM   #15100
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i have a question about putting the shim under the t-bar for more on power rear traction. what size shim should i put under the t-bar
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:49 AM   #15101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teammidget1
i have a question about putting the shim under the t-bar for more on power rear traction. what size shim should i put under the t-bar
When I ran that-it was a trinity aluminum motor shim. So less than 0.030". I dont think you need much to gain the effect you want.

Ray
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:51 AM   #15102
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thanks
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:16 AM   #15103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katana Man
No, sorry that doesn't work because after a few lines of text, it will be cut off with ...

Therefore you can't read the full post nor can you click on it to see it.
Click on the first line (after the white paper icon), and you'll go to the whole post.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:21 AM   #15104
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Hey guys, I'm thinking about racing 1/12th this winter and need your input. I will be racing 19T class, what is a good beginner 1/12 car that is easy to work on? I mean easy to get it to work? Would a RC12L4 be okay? I'm not a beginner.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:22 AM   #15105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
anyone? or no one undersstand what i mean?
I think what you are talking about is how much do you turn in or out the tweak screws to adjust your tweak. Correct? If that is what you are asking, start with both rear tires at equal diameter and both front tires at equal diameter. Next, with the batteries out of the car, set the car on a level surface and back the tweak screws out until they are no longer touching the chassis. Next, take a very thin strip of paper and place it between the chassis and the tweak screw. Turn the tweak screw into the T plate or down towards the chassis until you feel drag on the strip of paper when you try to pull it out. Do this for both screws. Now turn the tweak screws in about 1/4 turn and you will be at the perfect starting point to tweak your car. Providing that your fiberglass T plate is fresh, you can tweak your car either with a tweak station, four scales or with the tried and true coin drop method. Remember that you do not have to turn the tweak screws very much to adjust the tweak. Turn them in 1/4 turn increments and if you go over 1/2 turn on one screw, back the other screw out at least 1/4 or you can stress the T bar where the tweak screws thread into the T bar.
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