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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-21-2005, 12:33 AM   #15031
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I'm looking for a good standup brush for my 10turn motor. Are these any good:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFBH4&P=7 ?
What spring combo should work best?
And at what lenght should I toss 'em?
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Old 10-21-2005, 04:22 AM   #15032
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New questions:
1. With the third screw on the T-bar removed. Is there any danger of the rear pod going out of alignment with main chassis? I noticed this on my 10th pancar last week. It didn't really hurt its handling, but I think it will be more noticeable on a 12th scaler.
2. What will removing the T-bar brace do to the car's handling? How does it compare to using a softer T-bar, or removing the third screw on the T-bar?
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:44 AM   #15033
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The 2 has a locked comm, built in cap's and I believe the arms are wound differnt, one is cross and the other is mabuchi. Someone correct me if I am wrong



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
Just wondering what the difference is between the Chameleon and Chameleon 2 motors?

Thanks in advance?
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:46 AM   #15034
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Default Thoughts on battery "cheating"

Quote:
ah and batteries...are the guys in Cleveland and any other races ROAR or Non-ROAR going to tech for batteries such as maybe GP3900's in 3700 wrap?........this was done many years ago when 1200/1300's were the only game and 1700's came out. the reason this was done because 1700's were found with 1200 wraps on them
Something to keep in mind...the difference between a 1200 cell and a 1700 is (well...was, anyway) relatively HUGE, nominally realizing almost a 42% gain. The difference between a 3700 and a 3900 is merely a bit better than 5%. You also probably remember (I sure do) that 8-minutes on a 1200 was a real challenge...hell, it wasn't a walk in the park on 1700's either but man it sure seemed easier.

Cheating is cheating and I won't ever defend it, but you can almost see the rationale for gaining 42%. I'd be willing to bet even the most unscrupulous teams/drivers would think a bit before risking public humiliation and possible exclusion to gain the 5% when it just isn't that tough to make time on 3700's with motors/gearing we'd have laughed at as poor science fiction 15 years ago. 10-turn motors (and this year even less per ROAR?)...I've still got a couple Trinity motors with the copper endbell plates that had those tiny little brushes that we ran "in the day".

Scottrik
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:48 AM   #15035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
The 2 has a locked comm, built in cap's and I believe the arms are wound differnt, one is cross and the other is mabuchi. Someone correct me if I am wrong
mabuchi and cross wrapped are the same... one is hemi wound and the other is mabuchi (or cross wrapped)

I believe 1 was hemi wound and 2 is mabuchi wound... (there were a few C2's that were hemi wound when they first came out I believe...

later

Michael
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:49 AM   #15036
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Thanks Mike, too early for me to think.....
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:50 AM   #15037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Thanks Mike, too early for me to think.....
no prob bob LOL
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:04 AM   #15038
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Thumbs up Thanks guys.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
mabuchi and cross wrapped are the same... one is hemi wound and the other is mabuchi (or cross wrapped)

I believe 1 was hemi wound and 2 is mabuchi wound... (there were a few C2's that were hemi wound when they first came out I believe...

later

Michael
and the advantages of hemi over crossed or visa versa? I've never heard of hemi wound before.
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:14 AM   #15039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
and the advantages of hemi over crossed or visa versa? I've never heard of hemi wound before.
hemi is how mod motors are wound. the wire goes up and over the comm tab.
mabuchi is cross-wrapped so the wires cross each other as it goes over the comm tab.

Hemi has a little less wire which theoretically all things being equal would be just a little faster on the track.
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Old 10-21-2005, 11:23 AM   #15040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
and the advantages of hemi over crossed or visa versa? I've never heard of hemi wound before.
Hemi wound 19T motors may not be legal, depends on what rules you are racing. In The US, most 19T classes require mabuchi wind and locked end bells, the main exception I know of is Oval racing.

Chris
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Old 10-21-2005, 12:20 PM   #15041
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The only ROAR legal 19 turn fixed timing motor is the C2. The Reedy is hemi wound.

At first everyone had hemi wound 19's and ROAR decided to make the rule state cross wrap instead. Trinity changed theirs and Reedy didn't.

The difference isn't really all that big.
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Old 10-21-2005, 03:32 PM   #15042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Something to keep in mind...the difference between a 1200 cell and a 1700 is (well...was, anyway) relatively HUGE, nominally realizing almost a 42% gain. The difference between a 3700 and a 3900 is merely a bit better than 5%. You also probably remember (I sure do) that 8-minutes on a 1200 was a real challenge...hell, it wasn't a walk in the park on 1700's either but man it sure seemed easier.

Cheating is cheating and I won't ever defend it, but you can almost see the rationale for gaining 42%. I'd be willing to bet even the most unscrupulous teams/drivers would think a bit before risking public humiliation and possible exclusion to gain the 5% when it just isn't that tough to make time on 3700's with motors/gearing we'd have laughed at as poor science fiction 15 years ago. 10-turn motors (and this year even less per ROAR?)...I've still got a couple Trinity motors with the copper endbell plates that had those tiny little brushes that we ran "in the day".

Scottrik
When are the size of batteries going to stop? 3900's??
The 3700's are already getting too big, needing even special chassis on some cars! At what point do they stop being "C" cells?
Is it eventually going to burst and everybody start running Lithium Batts?
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Old 10-21-2005, 04:54 PM   #15043
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Default 1/2 scale arbor

I've been reading the thread for a couple weeks now and am about to buy a 1/12 scale. I have the Cobra tire truer big one that plugs into a wall. Does anyone know the part number for the correct arbor?

Also, with a 1/12 scale how do caculate rollout? Looking at the CRC T-fource or 3.2r if it makes a difference.

And lastly tire height, what is a good starting point for club racing. At least to be able to get some runs out of a tire for a while.

Thanks...

Mike T.
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:07 PM   #15044
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For rollout go here http://www.gearchart.com/ and print of which ever you want.I have charts for 96 , 98 and 100 spurs pm me if you want and i'll e-mail you them ??

Big difference between the t-force and the 3.2r . I'd go with the t-force as i like T-bar cars but it's preference. the 3.2r is a link car.

Susposedly the link car on carpet will be faster than a t-bar car but i find them harder to drive and more inconsistant. Ask someone else and they'll tell you the t-bar is more inconsistant like i said it's all about preference .

For club racing i run the tires out of the packet . After they've been trued a couple of times i'll then hold them back for larger races, makes sense to me as i can't afford to true new tires down to the rim straight off for that "optimal" preformance.
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:41 PM   #15045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Something to keep in mind...the difference between a 1200 cell and a 1700 is (well...was, anyway) relatively HUGE, nominally realizing almost a 42% gain. The difference between a 3700 and a 3900 is merely a bit better than 5%. You also probably remember (I sure do) that 8-minutes on a 1200 was a real challenge...hell, it wasn't a walk in the park on 1700's either but man it sure seemed easier.

Cheating is cheating and I won't ever defend it, but you can almost see the rationale for gaining 42%. I'd be willing to bet even the most unscrupulous teams/drivers would think a bit before risking public humiliation and possible exclusion to gain the 5% when it just isn't that tough to make time on 3700's with motors/gearing we'd have laughed at as poor science fiction 15 years ago. 10-turn motors (and this year even less per ROAR?)...I've still got a couple Trinity motors with the copper endbell plates that had those tiny little brushes that we ran "in the day".

Scottrik
the Sanyo 1200's weren't really dead on the 1200 rating, they went over that all the way to the freak cells (considered at that time using a LAVCO) 1450+.

as for the newer cells IB3800 VS GP3700 in a 12th....the way i drive, i can tell the difference in 8 min. IB3800's rule hands down. i think based on the seconds/ratings on a 30A discharge, the 3700's are exact rated when it comes to numbers and the 3800's are underated. i have some Promatch
IB3800's some are high 511sec and some are as low as 480sec. charging time/sec seems to verify those differences. my Gp3700's, some are as high as 476sec and some as low as 446. i had GP3300's that were 438sec packs. which still makes me say that some of the GP3300's were actually underated.

as for motors using 1/24 slot car brushes, i ran the Team Checkpoint motors at a region-6 race that Big Jim Greemeyeir hooked me up with. they were smooth and made killer runtime. sort of the way todays standard standups make better runtime than laydowns or the P-94 brushes.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-21-2005 at 08:59 PM.
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