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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-19-2005, 10:14 PM   #15016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
All I can say is Bravo! to the CRC crew. Jaco puts out a product that provides better all around performance and CRC is lightning fast to react with a product that aims to produce a similar effect. Not to mention the race ready size. BRAVO!!

This is exactly why innovation is so important and why the Jaco tires should be run in Cleveland. The go-getters will work to innovate, not stifle.
whats the latest product from jaco?new compound? im not up to date sorry. props to the crc team!!!
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:53 AM   #15017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
whats the latest product from jaco?new compound? im not up to date sorry. props to the crc team!!!
Jaco is now selling two stage foam tires. They are composed of two parts of foam, an inner and an outer. The inner is very light and firm while the skin is standard rubber. The finished product is lighter and far more durable with less wear.

They have been quite the topic of debate and just recently ruled illegal for Cleveland this year. Check out the Jaco tire news thread for more details, I am sure Jack would be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Nick
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Old 10-20-2005, 07:50 AM   #15018
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The inner tire compound is lighter; however, the new front plastic wheel has a thicker hub to hopefully eliminate cracking at the inset that supports the inner bearing...Good move Jaco!
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:17 AM   #15019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
The inner tire compound is lighter; however, the new front plastic wheel has a thicker hub to hopefully eliminate cracking at the inset that supports the inner bearing...Good move Jaco!
I totally forgot to mention that, thank you Bill. The new wheel is being used for all the Jaco 12th tires now even the older compounds. No more broken wheels!
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Old 10-20-2005, 01:26 PM   #15020
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Yes the new wheels are great, should not have any issue with those. Lets hope they are all aligned well too.

Chris
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:35 PM   #15021
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I just bought a set of the lowered IRS front arm for my L4... but can anyone tell me how can i remove the Susp Arm Pivot Ball from my original arm?

I was trying to do that whole night but still couldn't get it out

Any suggestion? I would just go get some new ones but i just can't find it locally
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:44 PM   #15022
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niftech make a tool to remove the balls, but basically it is an alum shaft with a ridge that rides in the ball and then a hollow tube that the arm sits on and then you tap the alum shaft and the ball pops out into the hollow tube
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:47 PM   #15023
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I don't know if there are any tips to remove them with the tools we all have at home, but RC4Less has a pivot ball removal tool.
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:59 PM   #15024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Yes the new wheels are great, should not have any issue with those. Lets hope they are all aligned well too.
Chris
take a look these,

Ran these foams,rims @ Crewe national in the UK weekend gone,
BRM T&G Foams & see here for a report on they performed

UK National's results are posted here
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Old 10-20-2005, 03:08 PM   #15025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katana Man
I don't know if there are any tips to remove them with the tools we all have at home, but RC4Less has a pivot ball removal tool.
That's the tool I use and it works great! Niftech also makes bronze balls to replace the plastic balls.
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Old 10-20-2005, 03:29 PM   #15026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydo
Alright, whos going to Cleveland and can pick me up a set of these!
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=42
I wonder if there is going to be a "patent" on these..... The rims look cool and the idea that the tires come pre-cut thats also nice. I know that TM tires was offering this for the Oval crowd with the 10th scale pan tires. Its good to see that other companies are going this route so guys can just run them right out of the box and also less mess at the track.
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Old 10-20-2005, 04:01 PM   #15027
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I keep getting private messages asking me where I got the bumper for my car. So I figured I'd answer it here. The bumper you see in the above picture is a P-Dub Generic Racing Bumper. I shaped it with my wife's bread kitchen knife, a dremmel, and sandpaper. It took me an hour, and certainly made a mess. The end result is awesome though. I made it fit perfectly underneath my Speed 8 body. It has already served it's purpose well, and has protected the body and car well.

In the P-Dub thread, I requested that P-Dub make a 12th scale bumper like this to protect the wheels/suspension arms. There was some interest, but if you guys want something like this without going through all of the shaping modifications that I had to do, please post a reply in the P-Dub thread concerning your interest for it.

For those that don't know, the P-Dub foam is harder than any other foam bumpers, and it's just as light.
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Old 10-20-2005, 09:42 PM   #15028
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I bought 1/12th scale front bumpers from three different sources.

For me, Slapmaster has the best front bumper shape.

It's not square cut on the leading edge. Has an angled cut to follow the slope at the front of the body.

www.slapmastertools.com
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:31 PM   #15029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-C
Jaco is now selling two stage foam tires. They are composed of two parts of foam, an inner and an outer. The inner is very light and firm while the skin is standard rubber. The finished product is lighter and far more durable with less wear.

They have been quite the topic of debate and just recently ruled illegal for Cleveland this year. Check out the Jaco tire news thread for more details, I am sure Jack would be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Nick
two stage tires were used at the last Snow Bird and Cleveland....and maybe races farther back?

now that they are available to the public...conflict? nobody had any beef when only the sponsored drivers had them. 2-stage/wraps were no secret and were discussed pages (i do mean pages) back in this forum. pics were posted after a race last year and some mentions were from sponsored drivers this year. it was found out months back, Jaco wasn't the only one making them.

how can anyone be sure that no one hasn't taken: Yokomo, Parma, TRC, BSR, BRM, CRC, Corally etc. rims and had someone special make them a set of 2-stage/wrap mounts? maybe for their own drivers? maybe for only one race...such as the Worlds? Maybe issued before a race and returned after, so there is no slip like last year where someone mentioned the 2-stage/wrap and threw it away at the end of the race only to have someone retrieve it and get the word out. now we can buy them and they are a issue with the rule makers or race promoters.

how are they going to tech for this? didn't before? cut tires at the end of mains?

i like CRC new 38 Procuts, very nice...but wait, what about a rim this size done up as a 2-stage.............

the last three years, i would say anyway, 12th scale has had a rebirth of some sort. look at all the different conversion kits alone that have been released. anything to make the cars faster and handle better shouldn't be outlawed. phase it in, like they did batteries and BL motors. well...maybe not the way they legalized BL motors.

ah and batteries...are the guys in Cleveland and any other races ROAR or Non-ROAR going to tech for batteries such as maybe GP3900's in 3700 wrap?
measure cells? weigh cells/packs at random? there were some issues i remember awhile back on a forum about accusations (sedan class) at a big race where some team drivers were rumored to had 3700's in 3300 wraps. this was before they were available in the US. yet amazingly no one protested. a scale and calibers would have revealed the truth....but no one wanted to go there i guess?

this was done many years ago when 1200/1300's were the only game and 1700's came out. the reason this was done because 1700's were found with 1200 wraps on them (uncut on the sides). 1200's had a K stamp or no stamp on the neg-end. the 1700's had a KW on the neg-end. some polished out the W and soldered them to barely show the K. but the scales and calipers told no lies.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 10-20-2005 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:39 PM   #15030
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Quick question.....

Just wondering what the difference is between the Chameleon and Chameleon 2 motors?

Thanks in advance?
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