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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-19-2005, 10:08 AM   #14986
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Default Kimbrough Carbon-fiber Composite pinions


anyone use these and are they upto the job for 12th cars?
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:13 AM   #14987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer

anyone use these and are they upto the job for 12th cars?

I have a complete set and LOVE them. Just be sure you don't over-tighten them or they will strip out.
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:57 AM   #14988
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who makes those pinions?
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Old 10-19-2005, 11:05 AM   #14989
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Kimbrough
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Old 10-19-2005, 01:11 PM   #14990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPL55&P=0


I know it's not a race body like the Speed 8...


But just wondering if anyone has every run that Hotbodies Toyota GT1. I'm not sure how it handles but I think they probably are the best looking 1/12th body.
If it's anything the 10th scale version, it should have a lot more steering than the P35
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Old 10-19-2005, 01:18 PM   #14991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
If it's anything the 10th scale version, it should have a lot more steering than the P35
So overall is it decent 1/12th body for 19T?
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Old 10-19-2005, 01:20 PM   #14992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus
So overall is it decent 1/12th body for 19T?
Only if the track has a TON of Traction. As fast as we're going nowadays it may not make enough downforce, that's why everyone runs speed 8's or speed 12's now, and noone really runs the good old P-35.
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Old 10-19-2005, 02:27 PM   #14993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
Perhaps when you exchange the left and right tires every run it might not be so bad, bad still your chassis should be 100% balanced left to right.
The only way I can imagine doing that is by adding the electronics to your car while it's on a tweakboard.
tweaking is a tuning aid I wouldn't want to without!
When I build a new car and it is time to place the electronics, I place the car on four digital scales with tires trued and the tweak screws (T bar car only) backed all the way out. I then place my receiver; ESC and receiver pack on the chassis so that the numbers are as close as I can get them, side to side. You can also setup your weight bias front to rear.

See the link below
http://www.hobbyshopper.com/shop/pro...age=1&featured
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Old 10-19-2005, 04:39 PM   #14994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northeast Racer
Anyone have any expierience running the CEFX LMP body on a 12th scale?

How is it versus the other popular bodies?
Shawn and I ran a few of them for quite some time. It's very balanced and doesn't bog the car down but we did get a noticeable improvement when we went to the 8's and the 12's.

I have no idea who it would feel when the traction really comes up.

Nick
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Old 10-19-2005, 05:15 PM   #14995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
Need some help.
The diff on my 12l4 is very smooth, but when you tighten it so that it is difficult to turn the spur while holding the tires it is not very free.
It has the stock thrust washer and cone, and Niftech balls and washers.
Any info to help me out?
Thanks
Dayton

I checked the bearings and they are fine.
Could it be a bad thrust cone and washer?
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Old 10-19-2005, 05:32 PM   #14996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1armed1
I checked the bearings and they are fine.
Could it be a bad thrust cone and washer?
90% of the time even though the bearings feel smooth they turn terrible once a load is applied to them. Try swapping out one of your axle bearings to the outside of the hub and see how it feels.

As far as a smooth diff in general is concerned take a look at the IRS page, this will really help you start smoothing things out if you aren't already doing it this way. http://teamirsrc.com/techtips.html

The only other thing to pay attention to is your diff lube. I have been using a thick silicone lube (Trinity's Joel Johnson Stuff) with great results. You want to be sure you are using a very small amount. I put some on one ring then put the rings together and move them around to get a very thin coating, no more is needed and will just gunk things up.

Let us know how you make out.

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Old 10-19-2005, 05:39 PM   #14997
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I just tryed the ring sanding tip and it is a little better but not enough.
I will try swapping some bearings around.
Thanks
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Old 10-19-2005, 05:49 PM   #14998
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Unhappy

Just swapped the bearings around and it is actually worse.
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Old 10-19-2005, 06:34 PM   #14999
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Swapping bearings should be the exactly the same. Sounds to me like the flanged bearings inside the hub are dead. They die with the thrust washer on them, because they were not designed for lateral loads. Replace them every other time you rebuild your diff.

Also, make sure your bearings are all the same dimensions. Sounds silly, but I have accidentally used thinner bearings in things without realizing the dimensions were off.


doug
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Old 10-19-2005, 06:42 PM   #15000
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I had a similar problem, it turned out that my rear axle carriers(ride height adjusters) were tweaked and not seated into the pods correctly and the problem showed up only when I tightened the diff. Another time I need to shim the axles to make room for different tires. not an expert here, just some examples that I have experienced. Good luck!!!
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