Kyosho TF-6
#706
^^^^they probably switch just to make everybodies life easier...idk how many of those i have lost everytime i would take my diff out ...im glad its pin type now.
#707
Registered User
Just like Theatriks mentioned, it's easier to work on then the ball system.
I've ran the pin system several times now and it seems to last very well. When racing I tend to switch back to the ball drive system because I think this is even smoother and efficient.. noticeable on the track? Not really... just personal preference.
Did any of you guys got their hands on the new parts already? Care to share opinions?!
I've ran the pin system several times now and it seems to last very well. When racing I tend to switch back to the ball drive system because I think this is even smoother and efficient.. noticeable on the track? Not really... just personal preference.
Did any of you guys got their hands on the new parts already? Care to share opinions?!
#709
Tech Rookie
Hy Guys!I'm Luciano from Rome Italy. I'm writing to u because i'm realy angry and disappointed with Kyosho about the swing shafts of this car.
I have spent a fortune in spare parts but the problem is always the same. Tf242 breaks all the time. I'm going to became crazy.
Please Guys help me. How did u solve this fu**ing problem?
Thanks.
I have spent a fortune in spare parts but the problem is always the same. Tf242 breaks all the time. I'm going to became crazy.
Please Guys help me. How did u solve this fu**ing problem?
Thanks.
#710
I have had this car for over a year never broke one swing shaft .....do you have pics ? What's happening that causes the swing shaft to break ?
#711
Tech Rookie
I mean this
#712
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Hy Guys!I'm Luciano from Rome Italy. I'm writing to u because i'm realy angry and disappointed with Kyosho about the swing shafts of this car.
I have spent a fortune in spare parts but the problem is always the same. Tf242 breaks all the time. I'm going to became crazy.
Please Guys help me. How did u solve this fu**ing problem?
Thanks.
I have spent a fortune in spare parts but the problem is always the same. Tf242 breaks all the time. I'm going to became crazy.
Please Guys help me. How did u solve this fu**ing problem?
Thanks.
#713
Registered User
Luciano,
Lately I've the feeling the quality of the aluminum axles has dropped slightly but I haven't seen any wearage like your axle is showing.
It's normal that aluminum wears out, but usually this is just in one direction, the thin layers of alu between the holes will get thinner and thinner until it's completely one and the ball holes start to very oval.
The wearing your axle is showing is anything but normal, it seems that indeed the shaft is binding inside the spool. Please check your front suspension will rise and drop freely when there's no damper attached. the up and down movement should be smooth as silk and not bind at any point.
I've had extreme axle wearing a little while ago, when further investigating the problem I found that one driveshaft ball accidentally fell behind the axle inside the spool cup when assembling, causing the axle to bind and wear out within few batteries time.
Please tell me what suspension arms you're running (long or short) and the suspension block combination (C-C out for example).
Just a quick reminder, Kyosho has just released a steel drive system with regular driving pins instead of the balls.. might be worth looking at!
Lately I've the feeling the quality of the aluminum axles has dropped slightly but I haven't seen any wearage like your axle is showing.
It's normal that aluminum wears out, but usually this is just in one direction, the thin layers of alu between the holes will get thinner and thinner until it's completely one and the ball holes start to very oval.
The wearing your axle is showing is anything but normal, it seems that indeed the shaft is binding inside the spool. Please check your front suspension will rise and drop freely when there's no damper attached. the up and down movement should be smooth as silk and not bind at any point.
I've had extreme axle wearing a little while ago, when further investigating the problem I found that one driveshaft ball accidentally fell behind the axle inside the spool cup when assembling, causing the axle to bind and wear out within few batteries time.
Please tell me what suspension arms you're running (long or short) and the suspension block combination (C-C out for example).
Just a quick reminder, Kyosho has just released a steel drive system with regular driving pins instead of the balls.. might be worth looking at!
#714
Tech Rookie
Luciano,
Lately I've the feeling the quality of the aluminum axles has dropped slightly but I haven't seen any wearage like your axle is showing.
It's normal that aluminum wears out, but usually this is just in one direction, the thin layers of alu between the holes will get thinner and thinner until it's completely one and the ball holes start to very oval.
The wearing your axle is showing is anything but normal, it seems that indeed the shaft is binding inside the spool. Please check your front suspension will rise and drop freely when there's no damper attached. the up and down movement should be smooth as silk and not bind at any point.
I've had extreme axle wearing a little while ago, when further investigating the problem I found that one driveshaft ball accidentally fell behind the axle inside the spool cup when assembling, causing the axle to bind and wear out within few batteries time.
Please tell me what suspension arms you're running (long or short) and the suspension block combination (C-C out for example).
Just a quick reminder, Kyosho has just released a steel drive system with regular driving pins instead of the balls.. might be worth looking at!
Lately I've the feeling the quality of the aluminum axles has dropped slightly but I haven't seen any wearage like your axle is showing.
It's normal that aluminum wears out, but usually this is just in one direction, the thin layers of alu between the holes will get thinner and thinner until it's completely one and the ball holes start to very oval.
The wearing your axle is showing is anything but normal, it seems that indeed the shaft is binding inside the spool. Please check your front suspension will rise and drop freely when there's no damper attached. the up and down movement should be smooth as silk and not bind at any point.
I've had extreme axle wearing a little while ago, when further investigating the problem I found that one driveshaft ball accidentally fell behind the axle inside the spool cup when assembling, causing the axle to bind and wear out within few batteries time.
Please tell me what suspension arms you're running (long or short) and the suspension block combination (C-C out for example).
Just a quick reminder, Kyosho has just released a steel drive system with regular driving pins instead of the balls.. might be worth looking at!
I saw the new steel drive system released by kyosho but now i'm confused and disappointed about this car. I'm not sure to invest money again in this model
#715
Registered User
I'm sorry to hear that you're this disappointed in the Kyosho product. Since nobody encountered such a problem I'm very sure it's solvable and not just poor quality.
I'd like to point out the new update kit that has just been released for the TF6(sp) ( http://www.redrc.net/2013/08/kyosho-...onversion-kit/) which includes the new drive system. From the testing and race results lately I can honestly tell you that the update kit is worth the money!
At the cost of 89,90 euro's (http://www.kyosho.de/?page=shop/flyp...oduct_id=25313) I don't think this would be an investment you would regret at all.
Regarding to your 'kit' suspension arms, do you have the regular TF6 or the TF6sp? The regular TF6 comes with short suspension arms which can cause trouble when narrowing the front-end of the car down with the suspension bushings, the SP arms shouldn't encounter any problems. Please check if the suspension setting is no smaller than C-C outwards when using short arms, when going smaller (B-B outwards) it causes the axles to bind.
Please let me know, I'm very sure the cause of this problem can be found and solved!
I'd like to point out the new update kit that has just been released for the TF6(sp) ( http://www.redrc.net/2013/08/kyosho-...onversion-kit/) which includes the new drive system. From the testing and race results lately I can honestly tell you that the update kit is worth the money!
At the cost of 89,90 euro's (http://www.kyosho.de/?page=shop/flyp...oduct_id=25313) I don't think this would be an investment you would regret at all.
Regarding to your 'kit' suspension arms, do you have the regular TF6 or the TF6sp? The regular TF6 comes with short suspension arms which can cause trouble when narrowing the front-end of the car down with the suspension bushings, the SP arms shouldn't encounter any problems. Please check if the suspension setting is no smaller than C-C outwards when using short arms, when going smaller (B-B outwards) it causes the axles to bind.
Please let me know, I'm very sure the cause of this problem can be found and solved!
#717
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
#718
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
#719
Tech Rookie
Ok Vasco, I've got the TF6 kit, but it's completely upgraded to TF6sp in all its parts. My arms are the TF005H ( originally mounted the tf226h included in normal tf6 not sp ), also my front spools are the tfw112 and my swing shafts are the tf242.
thank u very much for your interest to my problem and for showing me the new kit tfw151. the cost is not so expansive and that make me happy
thank u very much for your interest to my problem and for showing me the new kit tfw151. the cost is not so expansive and that make me happy
#720
Registered User
It sounds to me that you're indeed running the 'short' TF5 arms instead of the longer TF6SP ones. Please check the block setting, when using these short arms you shouldn't go any narrower then C-C out, this will cause binding problems!
You're very welcome, the cost of the new update kit is indeed 'low' considering the amount of parts it contains and the performance boost it brings to the table!
You're very welcome, the cost of the new update kit is indeed 'low' considering the amount of parts it contains and the performance boost it brings to the table!