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Old 10-17-2011, 06:11 AM   #181
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really nice pictures, should be a super combo with the Orion stuff You didn't get the lipo chassis and geardiffs?
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:18 AM   #182
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really nice pictures, should be a super combo with the Orion stuff You didn't get the lipo chassis and geardiffs?

Thanks.
I should get them in the next few weeks.
I will run it only after I get them, otherwise there is no point comparing it against a fully optioned TCX.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:11 AM   #183
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here is mine, we are racing stock with speedpassion stuff, otherwise I would mount my Orion esc+motor, just for the looks

1st race this weekend indoor on carpet, can't wait!!

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Old 10-17-2011, 12:32 PM   #184
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Narrow chassis, gear diff, aluminum and titanium fasteners, aluminum turnbuckles, very nice! I like the black lead weights, nice attention to detail.

For a full Team Orion set up you may have a look at my HB TCX in my blog. The same equipment will be moved over to the TF6 eventually.

Just in case you guys have not seen it, this is Shin's car from a recent exhibition carpet race where Andy Moore, Atsushi Hara, Surikarn and other top drivers also participated:

KKChung gallery




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Old 10-17-2011, 01:18 PM   #185
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Great to see how others do the small details. I just love looking at those pics.

I see a lot of talk of gear diffs. What are the advantages of a gear diff vs a ball diff? What are considered the "right" choice of diffs for a small technical, carpeted indoor track? Gears front and rear, balls front and rear or maybe a combo? What kind of tracks are the solid front axle meant for?

Tom
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:11 PM   #186
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Originally Posted by TomEG View Post
Great to see how others do the small details. I just love looking at those pics.

I see a lot of talk of gear diffs. What are the advantages of a gear diff vs a ball diff? What are considered the "right" choice of diffs for a small technical, carpeted indoor track? Gears front and rear, balls front and rear or maybe a combo? What kind of tracks are the solid front axle meant for?

Tom
I run the gear diff in front and rear. A geardiff in the rear gives you less slip and les maintenance and more tuning options (oil between 700 and 2000). In the front I run the spool (solid axle) and lately the gear diff with 500.000 oil in it. Acts like a spool but with a very little slip to protect you driveshafts and some extra turn in.

For a tight indoor on carpet I would choose between:
rear: balldiff and front: spool
rear: geardiff and front: spool
rear: geardiff (800 oil) and front: geardiff (500.000 oil)

Haven't tested al those options on carpet yet, I started with the geardiffs in rear and front and really liked it sofar.

I've included my setupsheet, I've made some changes last sunday that are not in this sheet but still don't know if it's faster or more stable so this should be a good starting point ( I tried sending it on facebook to you, but it bounced).
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TF6_setup_MACH_indoor_Matthijs_Jansen.pdf (406.8 KB, 101 views)
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:31 AM   #187
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Thanks Matthijs, I'll start out with the spool up front and the balldiff at the back. I will order a couple of geardiffs, so I can experiment a little.

Tom

Ps. I have no idea why the facebook message bounced...... But thanks for posting it here.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:43 AM   #188
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Matthijs,

Try this:

Run a shorter camber link at the rear end ( middle pos ) for better cornerspeed/reaction. The longest option is better suited for big, flowing outdoor tracks.

Thicker shock oil ( 500wt all around )

3mm underneath front camber link instead of the 2,5 you have now

Dampers bit more upright all around.

CS high grip additive

Maybe 0.5 all around underneath suspension blocks for a bit more traction..
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:03 PM   #189
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Matthijs,

Try this:

Run a shorter camber link at the rear end ( middle pos ) for better cornerspeed/reaction. The longest option is better suited for big, flowing outdoor tracks.

Thicker shock oil ( 500wt all around )

3mm underneath front camber link instead of the 2,5 you have now

Dampers bit more upright all around.

CS high grip additive

Maybe 0.5 all around underneath suspension blocks for a bit more traction..
thanks Vasco, I've been playing with springs last evening, switching between the HPI gold/silver and Tamiya white/blue, can't decide yet. Also a thinner stabi at front/rear(1.2 / 1.0), but went back to stock (1.4 / 1.2).

As I'm pushing more, the rear is loose on corner exit. Bart W. and Steven K. tried a few laps and likes the steering and roll, but on power, the rear is a bit twitchy. I'll try the shorter linkage and dampers more upright. Already got the front camber link higher. Have to change oils to, maybe lighter in the diff (700) and thicker in the shocks (500).
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:56 PM   #190
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Mathijs?
Perhaps cleaning putty in the front gear diff will settle the car more down.
Also what Vasco said about the shocks and camber links.
Or if possible make the rear of the car a bit more narrow?
This would also calmb the car down

regards Roy
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:35 AM   #191
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Mathijs?
Perhaps cleaning putty in the front gear diff will settle the car more down.
Also what Vasco said about the shocks and camber links.
Or if possible make the rear of the car a bit more narrow?
This would also calmb the car down

regards Roy
mmm, not looking forward for cleaning out my front diff I'm rebuilding the car this week, maybe a test on saturday otherwise racing on sunday! If I can make it saturday I'll try the spool in front.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:58 AM   #192
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Do you run 4 or 5MM hexes at the rear?
If 5 try switching to 4 to narrow the car a bit.
I had to identical cars running the same setup besides the rear suspension block(no unfortionatly no Kyosho).
Drove them both on the same circuit with same ESC settings and same motor.
One had a loose rear and and the other was planted as concrete.
Looked at the rear and and found out that i had a difference in the rear track width of about 3mm.
The narrower car was better in corners and was very good at onpower corner exit.
It had just a little bit less turn in then the wider car.
Perhaps this is something to try before you disassemble the whole car?.

regards Roy

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mmm, not looking forward for cleaning out my front diff I'm rebuilding the car this week, maybe a test on saturday otherwise racing on sunday! If I can make it saturday I'll try the spool in front.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:41 AM   #193
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Raising the front camber links to 3.0 instead of 2.5 will make the car more stable throughout a corner. With the current setting the rear is higher then the front, that makes the car kinda "dive" in corners.

You can also try running C ( FF ) and E ( FR ) to widen up the rear a bit, this will also improve the rear traction/stability of the car.

A very small but important detail: Make sure your front belt is set a little bit tighter then your rear belt. This way the front of the car will start accelerating first out of the corner before the rear end kicks in.. Will also provide more stability on power.

As for springs, I run HPI springs for 90% of the occasions. Mostly pink-silver or gold-silver. When running Tamiya springs I use white/blue.

Hope this helps you out
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:29 AM   #194
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You can also try running C ( FF ) and E ( FR ) to widen up the rear a bit, this will also improve the rear traction/stability of the car.
you mean replacing those bushings in the front?

I'll change some things at a time, not all together ;-)
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:38 AM   #195
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Ups... I ment RF and RR blocks... So change the rear of the car to C - E
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