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Old 01-30-2010, 10:40 AM   #16
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Pics of my old sst now my daughters. Funny thing is the tires on the car are old yokomo hot laps!
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Schumacher SST '99 pro (and previous SST models...)-pictures-023.jpg   Schumacher SST '99 pro (and previous SST models...)-pictures-026.jpg   Schumacher SST '99 pro (and previous SST models...)-pictures-030.jpg  
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:45 AM   #17
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couple more pics. Its got the reponse top plate,alum motomount, had the abs topshaft but snapped it running super stock?,the battery hold down for the top of the cells are an old chassis cut as a mirror of the lower chassis. I'm working on a saddle lipo holder.
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Schumacher SST '99 pro (and previous SST models...)-pictures-024.jpg   Schumacher SST '99 pro (and previous SST models...)-pictures-025.jpg   Schumacher SST '99 pro (and previous SST models...)-pictures-027.jpg  
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:39 AM   #18
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Thank you all for your responses AND pictures, I am relieved to see that this thread won't die 48h hours after I created it...

alien biker : Nice pics, very clever battery strap... I will use lipo so I'll do something different, I plan on using a spare Xray bar (I use tape on my xray anyway).

thanks Marcos J , looks much better !

Stlnlst : Indeed this feature is very unique to this generation of cars. The pivot bal setup makes every single angle variation possible if you dare trying them.
You can't adjust inboard toe-in but you can adjust the rear outboard toe-in gain by changin the angle and height of the toe-in links. Also, it would be pretty easy to adjust the antisquat gain (or loss), apart from the static antisquat. But that's all way over my setup abilities, so I'll start with something secure, I may try all that later.

One thing that surprises me is the fact that the rear roll center is actually higher than the front one. Everything is symmetrical front to rear except the rear A-arms inner hinge pins are 2.5 mm higher than the front ones.

On my other cars , mainly TC3 and FK05 ( love those too...see the latest article on overrc.com) the front roll center has always been the same or slightly higher on the front... what do you think? What should I expect, handling-wise? I can remember that back in these days nobody cared of roll center or knew what it was.

thanks again, keep writing and sending pictures ! I'll ask my roommate to photograph my car today... if he ever wakes up...
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:48 AM   #19
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I remember a funny story that I can't resist to tell...

when I was much younger and had no beard (14), I used to race with a buddy of mine, and we would come 1st-me and 2nd-him all the time, in the beginner class...

I had tc3 and he had a SST2000, the very first, given by his dad, all plastic, absolutely all plastic, no hop up or anything... he kept saying that with a TC3 he'd beat me... he finally bought a used tc3, I bought his SST for almost nothing, and two weeks later I beat him with his SST by a larger margin than ever before... good memories.

I think I can still find a picture of this race, I had a battery tray made out of a mouse pad...
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:55 AM   #20
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found them...

http://www.overrc.com/courses/course...092003sst2.jpg

http://www.overrc.com/courses/course...092003sst1.jpg
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:23 AM   #21
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pictures...

http://img682.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=photo001jn.jpg
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:39 AM   #22
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So...

On these pix the car is temporarily assembled just to see which parts I'm going to use on the definitive car. The diffs and bearings are still gritty, some parts will be modded , etc.

The shocks are from a Mi2 ( regular, not EC) I was given by another friend (!) but the preload collar is a problem ( hits the plastic part on top of the diff housing) so I may change them to another brand, or just find other collars. I don't like the clip preload system.

I will use the steel diff outdrives because the 1% performance loss over the alu ones is compensated by the MUCH longer lifespan, especially should a pin cushion ( blade) break.


ALSO I have a major problem and I need your advice because if not solved this car will stay on the shelf for the rest of its life...

The car is kind of flexible, but that is not at all what worries me, I get my butt kicked on a regular basis by a t2R pro so I know that a flexy setup can rock. The problem lies in the fact that the car has a "memory", ie, if twisted it stay twisted without reurning to a "flat" position",and by twisted I mean a good amount of tweak...

How do you guys take care of that ? I suspect widening the little oval holes on the top plate ( over the motor mount) would help but I don't want to ruin anything, so I need you advice here...

Alienbiker, would you mind checking on your daughter's car if you have the same problem ?

On mine it very obvious because it has no body posts, so if the car is put upside down I can check easily if all 4 corners of the shock towers are touching the glass plate at the same time. I guess it would not take long for you to check, and it would greatly help...

thanks again to you all for reading !
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:59 PM   #23
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any ideas ??
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:13 AM   #24
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That was the main problem with the car. You could set the tweak perfectly and go run but one hit from behind would tweak the car for the rest of that run. Can't remember if we ever found a fix for that or not. Adrian would be the best one to answer that question.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
That was the main problem with the car. You could set the tweak perfectly and go run but one hit from behind would tweak the car for the rest of that run. Can't remember if we ever found a fix for that or not. Adrian would be the best one to answer that question.
Unfortunately every old car has a "fatal" flaw....that is why new cars are designed and built. A common way to re-tweek this car was to give it a twist.
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:15 AM   #26
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I wonder if it is the chassis material in itself or the adjusments , or both, that cause this. If its is only the material, I may try to use a graphite chassis, just so that is has a sufficient elasticity and come back to "neutral" decently...

If not, I'll just put it away and forget about it, I have more valid projects waiting.


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Old 02-02-2010, 11:23 AM   #27
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Heretic , That was always a problem with this car .I need to go through some of my notes on the car to check I cant remember what we did for it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:27 PM   #28
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Thanks a lot.

By "adjustments" I meant "fitments" ,ie accuracy of the holes placement and diameters, precision of alignements, etc.

I chose the wrong word.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:40 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodog View Post
Unfortunately every old car has a "fatal" flaw....that is why new cars are designed and built. A common way to re-tweek this car was to give it a twist.
A twist and a shake I even remember the batteries I ran in that car....... Team ESP My turbo dyno really got a workout back in 99.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:54 PM   #30
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o.k. I checked my archives of stuff. I found my buddies who raced for Schuie at the time were told to loosen the bottom screws on the chassis that were structual and remove the top plate. let the car "relax". then check for tweek in the chassis and plate. If it looks good tighten the chassis screws, then loosely install the top plate and check the alignment of the screw holes.Then open them as needed, within reason. then countersink the holes use hex head countersunk hardware. then tighten it down . It should be darn close. If my notes are correct this was when the response top plate came out. The info was second handed to me from my buddy, from Paul W. or Adrian.
I checked the hello kitty car tonight it had a slight tweek. The way a 5yr old drives into things , I would say it worked pretty good. Its sitting relaxing and will tighten it up this weekend to straighten it back out. Or so I hope.
Stlnlst ,Wow Ripon, wasnt that the Nats of the 1 run proline s3 tires?

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