Schumacher Corner
11-05-2007, 05:56 AM
JayBee,
I'm not a big fan of balancing personally, and the recomendation for the CORE packs is just don't worry about it.
If you want to balance them, just about any balancing charger/accessory will do a good job for you.
I'm not a big fan of balancing personally, and the recomendation for the CORE packs is just don't worry about it.
If you want to balance them, just about any balancing charger/accessory will do a good job for you.
11-05-2007, 06:23 AM
Team Schui had another great weekend. A couple A-main finishes and lots of interests in the car. Check out the results and the facility:
www.hobbyplexraceway.com
2007 Midwest Carpet Onroad Championships November 1st-4th
Thanks to Andrew Doherty for letting me run his car to a third place finish in the As and to McGoo for his great setup. And thanks to Ken Mckinney for saving me a pit spot and working with me for both us to get to the As.
L8R Marker
www.hobbyplexraceway.com
2007 Midwest Carpet Onroad Championships November 1st-4th
Thanks to Andrew Doherty for letting me run his car to a third place finish in the As and to McGoo for his great setup. And thanks to Ken Mckinney for saving me a pit spot and working with me for both us to get to the As.
L8R Marker
I'd also like to thank Ken Mckinney for having one of those little azz screws from the hinge pins for me. And letting me stand around staring at his car.
Although I didn't put on a very good show with my driving, the car was terrific. I'll just have to pick a slower class next time!
11-05-2007, 12:32 PM
What brand spring is that in the front? I'm thinking to by a set but not sure if to go with the Shui's or if there is a different brand that provides springs the same length in finer increments. Could have definitely used a different spring this past weekend.
R.
R.
11-05-2007, 12:49 PM
I use Xray springs and they work great and come in finer incriments. You can use AE springs as well but they are shorter.
11-05-2007, 01:00 PM
Registered User
Hi thanks for the great thread chaps but I need a little help after going brushless I need some help with gearing does anybody have a link to a good Gear Chart to use with my Mi3
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
11-05-2007, 01:11 PM
im pretty sure he is using HPI springs, but you can use AE,Tamiyas(my favorite)or xrays
11-05-2007, 01:31 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
11-05-2007, 01:38 PM
Registered User
Wow speedy reply thanks Barger
11-05-2007, 01:45 PM
11-05-2007, 03:05 PM
11-05-2007, 03:14 PM
Adam / Sean,
You've got PM
You've got PM
11-05-2007, 03:16 PM
Hey Guys,
I wrote a comprehensive FAQ and care-and-feeding guide to the CORE lipos that's currently buried somewhere on the website, but here is a direct link:
http://www.secureonlineshopping.biz/...&pagewidth=550
I've been Lipo and brushless only since '03 in cars (and for much longer in aircraft) and it's about time everyone else is finally accepting the ease of use, simplicity and FUN that running them brings back into racing/bashing. We in the car world are YEARS behind the power system understanding curve when compared to the flight side of the hobby. Fortunately the slow seeping in of brushless/Lipo tech into the car side has now become a flood of new products and information.
While setup is certainly not my personal forte, you can consider me your personal power consultant and guide to help navigate you through the array of "new" technology now coming into our use like wildfire.
I've been pounding the first production CORE lipo pack almost daily since I pried it out of Adrian's hands back in June and it's still performing at 100%. The coolest thing about it (pun intended) is there isn't anything I can throw at it in a car that even comes close to it's capability limit. I've even had it in our GTRe 8th scale onroad car to the tune of 60mph, and where a couple Mamba Max systems did NOT survive a full run - the CORE pack had heated up to a whopping 10deg above ambient temp.
My other favorite feature about it is that I can show up to the track early on race day, or on a practice day and run a solid and continuous 30 minutes of practice time. No "peak" to get over in the first few laps, and no power decline through the entire run - just consistent power lap after lap for a half an hour. I don't know about you guys, but that much practice time is like GOLD for me.
I wrote a comprehensive FAQ and care-and-feeding guide to the CORE lipos that's currently buried somewhere on the website, but here is a direct link:
http://www.secureonlineshopping.biz/...&pagewidth=550
I've been Lipo and brushless only since '03 in cars (and for much longer in aircraft) and it's about time everyone else is finally accepting the ease of use, simplicity and FUN that running them brings back into racing/bashing. We in the car world are YEARS behind the power system understanding curve when compared to the flight side of the hobby. Fortunately the slow seeping in of brushless/Lipo tech into the car side has now become a flood of new products and information.
While setup is certainly not my personal forte, you can consider me your personal power consultant and guide to help navigate you through the array of "new" technology now coming into our use like wildfire.
I've been pounding the first production CORE lipo pack almost daily since I pried it out of Adrian's hands back in June and it's still performing at 100%. The coolest thing about it (pun intended) is there isn't anything I can throw at it in a car that even comes close to it's capability limit. I've even had it in our GTRe 8th scale onroad car to the tune of 60mph, and where a couple Mamba Max systems did NOT survive a full run - the CORE pack had heated up to a whopping 10deg above ambient temp.
My other favorite feature about it is that I can show up to the track early on race day, or on a practice day and run a solid and continuous 30 minutes of practice time. No "peak" to get over in the first few laps, and no power decline through the entire run - just consistent power lap after lap for a half an hour. I don't know about you guys, but that much practice time is like GOLD for me.
Lower Amp Charge = More Speed?
This is one test I will have to try again but ....
Sundays Aldershot meeting.
2x Trackpower 4900 LiPo
The two packs were charged up on Saturday evening (had used them during the day) and they were charged from the mains at 4A (maximum charged rate on my charger), now on Sunday when they were recharged I decided that as I have time I would only charge them at 3A.
Now my first 2 runs (slightly messy, must learn to drive) were only 19 lappers, but the 3rd (and final qually) the car felt smoother but faster enableling me to set a 20 lapper and a new personal best.
Now in the finals (2 legs) I am sure I had much more straight line speed as well as a smoother power band.
Now the only thing changed was the drop in charge rate to 3A, so is this something new with LiPo that a slower charge can give more power?
As I said at the top, I will have to try this again ('cos I like to post only facts)
11-05-2007, 03:32 PM
To McGoo or Goetz:
How tight are your front diffs vs. your rear diffs for stock foam TC? What diff lube do you use?
How tight are your front diffs vs. your rear diffs for stock foam TC? What diff lube do you use?
11-05-2007, 03:47 PM
Hi Skiddins,
Generally a different charge rate will make zero difference in performance. 1 amp, or the maximum - the output will all be the same.
BUT - I suspect one of two other lipo eccentricities were in play there:
1) Temperature
Cold packs don't perform as well as warm ones. If the pack started at the ambient outside temp early in the day (50F) it would be a little sluggish. But after a few discharge cycles (and warming ambient temps) to build a little heat into it (maybe 80F?) it would have felt stronger out of the turns and faster down the straight. A lipo's peak performnce temperature is about 100F, and they usually start showing a noticable drop in performance around 60F or below.
2) Are the packs brand new?
A pack's performance will IMPROVE over the first 20 cycles or so. What you see on run #1 of a new pack will be different than what you see on run #20 and up. I don't know what crazy technical chemistry is going on inside the cells to cause it, but it's a documented reality that it takes around 20+ cycles to "break in" the pack to it's peak performing level. It's easy to see the difference between cycle 1, 2, 3 and so on on a graphing discharger, but I suppose a racer with a very discerning eye might be able to see improvement from one run to the next?
I'd presume it was #1 more than anything, but I can assure you charge rate didn't have anything to do with it. :-)
Generally a different charge rate will make zero difference in performance. 1 amp, or the maximum - the output will all be the same.
BUT - I suspect one of two other lipo eccentricities were in play there:
1) Temperature
Cold packs don't perform as well as warm ones. If the pack started at the ambient outside temp early in the day (50F) it would be a little sluggish. But after a few discharge cycles (and warming ambient temps) to build a little heat into it (maybe 80F?) it would have felt stronger out of the turns and faster down the straight. A lipo's peak performnce temperature is about 100F, and they usually start showing a noticable drop in performance around 60F or below.
2) Are the packs brand new?
A pack's performance will IMPROVE over the first 20 cycles or so. What you see on run #1 of a new pack will be different than what you see on run #20 and up. I don't know what crazy technical chemistry is going on inside the cells to cause it, but it's a documented reality that it takes around 20+ cycles to "break in" the pack to it's peak performing level. It's easy to see the difference between cycle 1, 2, 3 and so on on a graphing discharger, but I suppose a racer with a very discerning eye might be able to see improvement from one run to the next?
I'd presume it was #1 more than anything, but I can assure you charge rate didn't have anything to do with it. :-)
11-05-2007, 04:33 PM
Adrian,
Not McGoo or Geotz, but I might be able to help. Front diff is set a "little" tighter than the rear and Losi brown or even AE green slime at times. I prefer the Losi brown. Hope this helps until MM or CG reply.
Not McGoo or Geotz, but I might be able to help. Front diff is set a "little" tighter than the rear and Losi brown or even AE green slime at times. I prefer the Losi brown. Hope this helps until MM or CG reply.
