John_S

ok kool im on a low grip outdoor unpreped track racing rubber tyre 19t

PW

I normally stand my shocks up a little more on low-bite tracks. You may also want a longer rear link (outside on hub). Try 1 thing at a time though

IslandBwoy

Hey all,

Do any of you guys have a quick fix for allowing the stearing arm of the MI2 to clear the top of the servo? This doesnt seem to be a problem on my EC but with my MI2 the arm is rubbing. Why is that? I dont know if this makes a difference but my EC is running a Futaba servo while my MI2 is sporting an airtronics.

Thanks,
MI JEDI

cornerspeed

Make sure that servo is all the way down on the chassis. If it is, you can shim up the steering lever a little in between the bell crank arm and the mount on the chassis. Make sure you do both sides, so the steering is even/equal. Try that.

brownpants

I just filed the arm down a bit until it did'nt rub any more.

Darren

IslandBwoy

Kewl. I seem to have sorted it out. I never realized this before but it seems like the horn never completly clears the server until you replace the spring and nut combo. I was looking at it without.

On another note though, the c hubs; has anyone ever tried drilling a hole in the c-hub and using a set screw to take some of the play out of that joint? Much of the front end play on my car comes from this area. I know Paul uses a beed of clue to make it tighter but after trying that i found that this 'procedure' wasn not a one time fix. Thus, I was thinking if i drilled a small hole through the side or bottom of the hub and using a set screw to rest against hinge pin, this should work well if I line it up just right. What do you guys think?

King-G

This is a possible solution, although I'd be weary as it may weaken the hub.

I use very thin shims either side of the castor block, careful not to overdo it as it will bind up the suspension if tight.

I agree most of the slop is in this joint, Ive also been keen to find a good way of removing the slop on the right side bellcrank, as its a combination of the slop in the trackrod ball cups, and the right side steering links cups.

One method I use to date is to snap some plastic from a parts bag over the ballstud then pop the ballcup on over the plastic, tearing away the excess it leaves a little plastic in there to pad out the extra space without binding it up.

in2deep

iTrader: (13)

have r12 for sale or trade

IslandBwoy

That makes sense. The shims definately works well but its so f'n difficult to get them in place. Even worst if your rushing. But what your saying about weakening the c-hub could be a real problem like you said so i'll keep an eye on em.

Thanks.

roadrashracing2

what is the best way to get some of the slop out of the front steering, ball cups are still good.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

rubber bands work.

roadrashracing2

how will the hpi mod work for rubber and what would be a good setup for mid-high bite rubber, carpet.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I use them on my car and it does work.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

From what I was told the only reason that guys were doing the HPI mod was for durability. It does move the ball stud up 1mm though so you would have to compensate for that in your setup.

nf_ekt

iTrader: (115)

I did this after hearing of another mi2 racer doing it.... Get a plastic bag (like what spare parts come in) one that is alittle thick, pull the cup of the ball, place the plastic over the ball, then snap the cup back down. It will sandwich the plastic between the ball and cup and take up some slop. I did this for the entire front steering and its a bit tighter. Maybe there's a better technique likethe rubber bands (have'nt tried) but this did work for me, at least so far...