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Old 04-16-2006, 05:55 AM   #14281
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Originally Posted by scott_g
by far the best thing for you to do is to practice. changing all this stuff on your car will not make the slightest difference if your driving is inconsistent. spend all your $$ on getting to the track to practice, practice, practice. Practice on any track you can get too. Don't change too many things and don't listen to too many people. Put a fairly standard setup on your car and drive, drive, drive, drive. That's what you need to do more than anything.
Well said Scotty. Practicing perfectly makes Practice Perfect!!! Try saying that 5 times quickly!!!

I need to take some of my own advice as well!!! But first I have to get out to the track more often.....

Here's a link to my outdoor ashphalt rubber tire setup (Brendale, Australia 1/10 and 1/8th gas track - Worlds to be held there later this year)
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Old 04-16-2006, 05:57 AM   #14282
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
hey got some questions lol weird ones
what is the free'est running belts i can put on my mi2 stock not ec?
ive noticed that all the other tourers run 3mm belts schui's are 5mm can i buy or get thinner ones made??
also ive cleaned my bearings but what else can i do to make the drive train less resistive?
lastly which is better on aphsalt foams or rubbers?? i have heard foams are faster hands down?
also how do you mount the rear alloy camber mounts? letters down and both r's on right and both l's on left?
please help me out i was about 1 second of the pace and i want my car to be perfect so then i can perfect my driving style.
thanks all.
Schumacher do sell a black belt which is 3mm. I would also recomend buying the yellow or ceramic bearings that the diffs go through and remove the bearing shields from one side of the wheel bearings (make sure its the side that faces inwards to avoid dirt getting in).

Also, have you removed one of the diff shims front and rear from the left hand side of the car?

When you say alloy camber mounts do you mean the pivot blocks that the wish bones attach to for the rear toe? If you do, then its not r's one side and l's on the other. One of each on both sides, not sure which way round off the top of my head?

As for tyres, I've only run rubber so I cant help you there, sorry.

HTH Darren
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:53 AM   #14283
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hey dirty dog,
did that guy come thru with the money for the 0-30?
sorry still keen
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:02 AM   #14284
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my problem is though at the moment my rear end has no grip from the shocks being set at kit setting i cant seem to find any just out of curiosity the kwik clips on the hinge pins at the back are set at the front of the wish bone resulting in a long wheel base on the back if i change that to medium would that help oin any way atall

cheers
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:15 AM   #14285
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Originally Posted by nemisis
my problem is though at the moment my rear end has no grip from the shocks being set at kit setting i cant seem to find any just out of curiosity the kwik clips on the hinge pins at the back are set at the front of the wish bone resulting in a long wheel base on the back if i change that to medium would that help oin any way atall

cheers
Try stiffening the front a little or turning the steering down on your radio maybe?
Having the long wheel base should make the car more stable I think?
Dont try lots of things at once though, just one at a time.

Darren
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:18 AM   #14286
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well at the moment i am using the pro springs from schumacher andat the moment i am using reds on the rear and purples on the front wat would be best to go to
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:39 AM   #14287
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hey are the low shock towers for the old mi2 useable with schuie shocks?
i just want to use em because i can ballance the car with them
but i want to use the standard old schuie shock
btw im running aphsalt if it matter with rubbers
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:47 AM   #14288
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Originally Posted by mini-dub
If it was that bad there's probably something wrong with it. Such as worn out tires, binding/broken suspension, bent hinge pins, ect... But if its loose and pushing I'm going to take a stab at the tires being worn out or the wrong compound.
no,I checked all the arms and caster blocks for cracks,as far as tires,I practiced with sorex 28r,powers 35,CS-27,RP-40,and all of these tires were new.heres the setup:

front camber 2
rear camber 2
rear shock tower ,inner
front shock tower,middle
front arm mount,outer
rear arm mount,second from innermost
front spring ,white
rear spring,assosiated green
every thing else is like the teemu setup
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:56 AM   #14289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemisis
well at the moment i am using the pro springs from schumacher andat the moment i am using reds on the rear and purples on the front wat would be best to go to
That seems very stiff to me.
Try dropping down to yellow on the front and green on the rear if the rear still slides about go one softer on the rear.

Darren
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:00 AM   #14290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownpants
That seems very stiff to me.
Try dropping down to yellow on the front and green on the rear if the rear still slides about go one softer on the rear.

Darren
You don't necessarily want to go too soft in the rear. That could cause the car to dump over and unload the rear and break loose even worse. You're running foams right? Try moving the rear wishbones forward 1mm at a time. What I've found is this will give the car more nimble steering by shortening the wheelbase, but at the same time, give the rear end more grip by putting more weight on the rear tires. Most of the time I run my cars with a very short wheelbase. 1mm from full back on the front wishbones and 1mm from full forward on the rear. But try them 1mm at a time to see how effects you.
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:20 AM   #14291
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Well you learn something new every day.
Did'nt think the wheel base worked like that? Ah well.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:04 PM   #14292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemisis
well at the moment i am using the pro springs from schumacher andat the moment i am using reds on the rear and purples on the front wat would be best to go to
It doesn't sound like you have tried any of the suggestions we made last week?

1. Wrong tires
2. Front end is to soft (spring & oil)
3. Rear is to heavy (just oil)

Shock position seems to be different for some, but I have tested this over and over with the same result each time; If all other things are "correct" then standing the shock up gives more traction and laying the shock down gives less (rubber tire). If you do lay the shocks down and get more traction then that means you are to stiff on spring etc....

Wheelbase; My car always rotates more when I move the rear arm forward (shorter).
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:14 PM   #14293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justin lessard
no,I checked all the arms and caster blocks for cracks,as far as tires,I practiced with sorex 28r,powers 35,CS-27,RP-40,and all of these tires were new.heres the setup:

front camber 2
rear camber 2
rear shock tower ,inner
front shock tower,middle
front arm mount,outer
rear arm mount,second from innermost
front spring ,white
rear spring,assosiated green
every thing else is like the teemu setup
The first thing I noticed was the lower shock mount for the rear. I've always like the second from the outside (stock position) Moving it in that far really seemed inconsistent. Like PW just posted, that's going to stand the shock up and theoretically, should give it more traction. But when you adjust the lower position, you're giving the wheel more leverage on the shock, which makes it MUCH softer. So it's going to dump over hard and probably snap loose mid corner and want to spin out. So moving that out one would be my first adjustment and go from there.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:16 PM   #14294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PW
Wheelbase; My car always rotates more when I move the rear arm forward (shorter).
My car does rotate more but it seems more controlled and doesn't want to get loose. To me it gives more usable steering instead of making the car loose. But like anything else, it's easy to go too far with it.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:17 PM   #14295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justin lessard
no,I checked all the arms and caster blocks for cracks,as far as tires,I practiced with sorex 28r,powers 35,CS-27,RP-40,and all of these tires were new.heres the setup:

front camber 2
rear camber 2
rear shock tower ,inner
front shock tower,middle
front arm mount,outer
rear arm mount,second from innermost
front spring ,white
rear spring,assosiated green
every thing else is like the teemu setup
That looks like it would be loose

I will send you a new setup to try on Monday.
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