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Old 03-24-2006, 06:19 AM   #14026
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For guys that crash more than they would like to turning a diff into a spool is a great alternative.

Tightening a diff full tight is not enough. If you really tighten it you could pop the thrust bearing circlip out, damage it groove and ruin an out drive.

To make a diff into a spool:

1. Disassemble a diff but leave the thrust bearing in the female out drive alone.

2. Remove the diff balls and clean all the silicone diff lube from the pulley, diff rings and out drive faces.

3. With thin CA glue header card stock to one side of the diff rings. Cut them out so that one side of the ring is faced with paper.

4. Reassemble the diff with no diff balls and the paper side of the diff rings facing towards the pulley. The paper takes up the space normally occupied by the diff rings so the width of the spool is correct.

5. Adjust the Spool/Diff just like a diff. Full tight then back off 1/4 turn. This will allow the spool to slip and dissipate energy during crashes. It will NEVER slip while racing, only during crashes.

The only disadvantage to the spool/diff is that it is heavier than the kit alloy spool. You will have to judge for your self what is best for you. For club races I run a spool/diff as blades will last forever and the out drive will never spread no matter how hard you crash (if the spool diff is back off 1/4 turn on the adjustment screw).
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:44 AM   #14027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
You will need to replace the front CVD's with metal ones. At least with the steel CVD's. You don't really need to drop the cash on the expensive Worlds ones...
U2151 - Steel MIP CVDs $44.99
U3020 - Mi2EC Alloy CVDs $39.99
TNM2564W - TiR Mi2EC Alloy CVDs $39.99

The two alloy CVD are actually stronger than the steel units. You can bend a dogbone on the U2151's. I have not seen that done on the TiR or Schu CVDs.
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:50 AM   #14028
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I've done it!
Schue CVD in a nice banana shape! It was a cool crash though!
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:28 AM   #14029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
U2151 - Steel MIP CVDs $44.99
U3020 - Mi2EC Alloy CVDs $39.99
TNM2564W - TiR Mi2EC Alloy CVDs $39.99

The two alloy CVD are actually stronger than the steel units. You can bend a dogbone on the U2151's. I have not seen that done on the TiR or Schu CVDs.
I didn't realize the alloy ones were cheaper. I've never run anything other than the alloy and the older Ti ones. Learn something new every day.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 03-24-2006 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:45 AM   #14030
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who makes a complete screw set for the mi2?
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:47 AM   #14031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad-monkey
who makes a complete screw set for the mi2?
rcscrews had one for the Mi2, not sure if they still do.

A couple packs of the Take-Off screws work well
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:52 AM   #14032
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thanks paul..
is there a website for either?
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:09 AM   #14033
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http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/searc...rtname2=partno
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:13 AM   #14034
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I was also wondering if any one had a spring chart? I was also wondering if different c hubs and rear hubs fit it like, losi or ae?
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:21 AM   #14035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrashracing
I was also wondering if any one had a spring chart? I was also wondering if different c hubs and rear hubs fit it like, losi or ae?
Brad,
Welcome to the friendliest most helpfull thread on R/C Tech
Which springs do you have?
Sorry, nothing else is a direct replacement.
You can PM me with any questions that you have. Also, if you need parts for your car and don't have them don't be afraid to ask
I'm glad that you chose Schumacher, you will be very happy as it won't break as easy as the others you had.

Later
Jim
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:30 AM   #14036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrashracing
I was also wondering if any one had a spring chart? I was also wondering if different c hubs and rear hubs fit it like, losi or ae?
Drop me an Email to jkerr0043@cox.net and tonight I'll send you a spring chart that I made up with all the most common brands. It has their published rates as well as the actual rate. XRC Magazine did an article last year where they used a spring dyno and tested all the major manufacturers springs. I made a comparison chart from it.
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:35 AM   #14037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Drop me an Email to jkerr0043@cox.net and tonight I'll send you a spring chart that I made up with all the most common brands. It has their published rates as well as the actual rate. XRC Magazine did an article last year where they used a spring dyno and tested all the major manufacturers springs. I made a comparison chart from it.
Me too please, Jon i always wanted a complete spring chart. Should have known you would have it
jamesnewberg@comcast.net
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:43 AM   #14038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimnew
Me too please, Jon i always wanted a complete spring chart. Should have known you would have it
jamesnewberg@comcast.net
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I have all that stuff.
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:30 PM   #14039
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how good is the mi2 ec i am curentley runnin a standard mi2 and want a new car scince i know a lot about the car i am wonderin if the ec is ant good
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:36 PM   #14040
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The EC is essentially an evolved version of the original Mi2. Everything we've been doing to the original car for the last 2+ years to make it faster has been put into this car. Improved suspension geometry, drivetrain efficiency, new shocks, etc... etc... If you're familiar with the Mi2, you'll have no problem working on or adapting to this car. It's just one step up the ladder from the original Mi2.
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