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Old 02-17-2002, 06:32 PM   #1381
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Connect the rear sway bar. That should allow the car to push a little so the front won't grab as much causing the traction roll. Got this from the man himself while at the Snowbird. Worked for me.
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Old 02-17-2002, 08:28 PM   #1382
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I ran Rons setup yesterday, Any idea's on ways to keep it on all fours? lol
Before switching the car, a well setup car will always be on the verge of snap rolling. This usually means the car is at its optimal traction level. I suggest you get used to it unless you can make it snap roll on demand in any turn, then that is to much traction and setup is at fault.

I took the new top plate off at our track, it was to stiff for the tight track. I will run it on larger tracks though.
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Old 02-17-2002, 08:28 PM   #1383
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I see that alot of people are running Associated springs, but they appear to be to short to me, am I missing something?
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Old 02-17-2002, 09:12 PM   #1384
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Tractionroll- Yes a lot of us are runnin AE whites or yellow white combo's. An they are shorter then stock schui springs, so what u have to do if u have the threaded shock bodies is, put the collar on upside down, if you dont do that you will never achieve the ride height needed? But anyways, just FYI I am not running AE springs on my mission, and neither is another team driver that I race with. I think we have the only two cars in the nation with a totally different setup then everyone else, and it works terrific TOO! Its on its waay to be faxed to Paul, so he will probaly post it on the site. If anyone wants to try it, let me know.
Again for FYI, we added some spacers here an there to acheive the correct roll, for the car with a stand up shock position setup.
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Old 02-17-2002, 09:20 PM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tractionroll
I see that alot of people are running Associated springs, but they appear to be to short to me, am I missing something?
AE springs? How about AE shocks?!?! I am putting mine together now, my Mission, and I don't know if I like the shocks...the piston selector thing seemed all cheesy,...and I ordered the threaded shock bodies...Adrian, for the price of the threaded shock bodies you should be able to get an entire set of four threaded shocks...$45 is a bit much?!?!

I have a set of AE FT TC3 shocks, anyone use those on their car? I am going to use the stock setup at first of course...but I got a bunch of springs for the AE shocks.

Another question: in the manaul, when you put in the droop screws it says to set it so the a-arms are 'flush with the chassis'...what does that mean? Parallel? Just touching the chassis (the front arms and rear arms would hit the chassis at different points in that case)...

Finally, looks like spur gears are limited to Schumacher brand and 48 pitch. What range of pinions so I buy so I have a few steps I can make around that stock spur gear? I have a whole gang of RR spurs and pinions in 64 pitch, are those going to be no good to me now?

Thanks
sean <---cranky...didnt get enough sleep last night
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Old 02-17-2002, 09:43 PM   #1386
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corey Bernardo
Tractionroll- Yes a lot of us are runnin AE whites or yellow white combo's. An they are shorter then stock schui springs, so what u have to do if u have the threaded shock bodies is, put the collar on upside down, if you dont do that you will never achieve the ride height needed? But anyways, just FYI I am not running AE springs on my mission, and neither is another team driver that I race with. I think we have the only two cars in the nation with a totally different setup then everyone else, and it works terrific TOO! Its on its waay to be faxed to Paul, so he will probaly post it on the site. If anyone wants to try it, let me know.
Again for FYI, we added some spacers here an there to acheive the correct roll, for the car with a stand up shock position setup.
Are you coming up here for the carpet nationals?? That may be the only race we all get to race at this year as a bunch of us don't plan on racing the Reedy race this year. I would rather die than to run a third year on H13's.
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Old 02-17-2002, 09:45 PM   #1387
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Default Droop and Ride Height

I have a very beginer question for you guys. I have been explained that droop is the mesurement from the tire end of the lower A arm to the ground whith no wheels and tires. Right/Wrong? And ride height from the bottom of the chassis to the ground with wheels on. Right/Wrong? How do I measure these, but more in what order. Rons setup has like 2mm droop in the front with a ride height of 5mm. If I adjust the droop useing the grub screws on the A arm with the method above, I end up with a ride height of 8mm? I can't seem to figure out how to adjust these two adjustmnts independently.

Thanks for the help.

CS

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Old 02-17-2002, 09:47 PM   #1388
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As for the AE springs...

I flip the threaded collars, then use the stepped ring that comes with the kit for use on the standard bodies. With the collar flipped and the little ring in place, you can just add a preload spacer between those to take up the slack. The thickness of the spacer will depend on shock position, shock length, etc. I like the collars to be in the middle of the threads or so at ride height.

_neas_

By "flush with the chassis", the manual is asking you to make the tips of the arms the same height as the chassis. After you assemble the suspension, place the chassis on a flat surface(set-up board) and set the droop screws so that the tips of the arms just touch the surface the chassis is resting on. This is a setting of zero droop. You can raise the arms up from this point, resulting in less droop. Just use your stepped ride hieght guage to keep track of how much droop you are running.

Schumacher also offers a gear adaptor that will allow the use of aftermarket spur gears. I think is runs about $10-12. The 118 seems to be the best all around spur to use with the 20T pulley.

Later!!!
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Old 02-17-2002, 09:59 PM   #1389
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LOL....wow....in the 2 minutes it took to type that .....

Joe-

Using Ron's setup as an example; you would remove the wheels from the car, set the chassis on a nice flat surface. Using your ride height guage, set the droop screws so that the tips of the arms are 3mm off the surface the chassis is setting on. Now you have set the maximum downtravel, or droop, in the front arms.

Next, put the wheels/tires back on, install the motor, battery, etc. Get the car to race weight. Now using you ride height gauge, set the ride hieght to 5mm.

Two seperate deals.
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Old 02-17-2002, 10:03 PM   #1390
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By 118 I assume you mean 64 pitch?

I see what you mean by 'flush' now....smilin Joe, that might answer your question too? I ordered a Yokomo ride-hieght/droop gauge from SpeedtechRC...its alloy, but I have yet to use it.

A question about the sway kit (bag 7 or 8)...The portion that is held down by the shock tower, the 'track' like piece that holds the actual piano wire...there is two tabs, I can see that they are what the track is held to the tower with...but there is also a third piece...a little tab intbetween those pieces..is that manf leftovers? Or is it supposed to be there...it doenst allow the track to be flush with the shock tower, rather it gives a pivot-point...

Should I snip that off? Or leave it on there?
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Old 02-17-2002, 10:12 PM   #1391
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LOL...this is a Mission chat room..tonight...insomnia from sleeping though the Daytona 500 I guess.

Is it just me, or is NASCAR is like watching a bunch of undergeared 4 cell sedans on a big outdoor track?

Yes...118 is in 64p.

The plastic "channel should only have the two tabs that locate it in relation to the bulkhead. the other is most likely some type of flashing from the molding process. I don't recal having any on my car, but it could be there.
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Old 02-17-2002, 10:51 PM   #1392
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I figured as much...I will cut them off and pray

Nascar kind of sucks...I think. I was watching Speed Channel and they had Nascar crap and then they showed some F1 and WRC footage...the best cars in the world are F1...they put sooooo much $$ into them. The best drivers are WRC drivers I think...100mph sideways through snow and ice...
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Old 02-18-2002, 01:42 AM   #1393
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There has been a lot of talk about layout and ponder position. This is what I ended up with my rather large electronics. Center of gravity is also kept low.
BR/ JesseT
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Old 02-18-2002, 07:34 AM   #1394
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Thanks for the input SirSpeedy. But I have one hangup, how do I adjust the ride height?

Thanks
CS
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Old 02-18-2002, 07:52 AM   #1395
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You adjust the ride height with the plastic C-shaped rings that you can snap on the shock bodies. In case of threaded shocks then you screw the collar up or down.
The droop and ride height adjustments should normally be independent. However if excessive preload is used on the spring, then changing droop can alter the ride height as well.
Droop is the distance you can lift your chassis up before the wheels stop touching the ground. If droop measurement is done differently, it should always be stated. Some people measure droop from the tip of the wishbone without wheels on for some reason and then give that distance. These numbers should not be mixed with each other!
BR/ JesseT
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