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Old 02-26-2006, 07:48 AM   #13681
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Default Droop Measurement Clarification

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Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I use droop as a tuning option from time to time. We'll change it .5mm here and there. Most of the setups I run are between 3mm and 4.5mm. For instance, tonight (before I killed the car ) Donny and I were doing some setup work with a one-way at SoCal and we both ended up with 3.5mm droop in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. With the spool there, I was running 4mm in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. (All above ride height.) So not huge differences but it's a fairly sensitive adjustment. Which is why I really like measuring droop above ride height more than any other method. Things like ride height and roll center changes will effect your droop. If you have 4mm droop in the rear and 5mm ride height, and change the ride height to 4.5, your going to now have more like 4.5mm droop. But if you're measuring using just a droop gauge or by axle height, You won't see any change. Droop gauges to me are good for making sure you've got it right from side to side.
Jon Kerr -- For clarification to these measurements, can you explain how you come about to these numbers? For example, if you are measuring ride height from the bottom of the Chassis (Front & Rear) and then you want to measure droop what is your reference point? If your reference point is the tweak board and then you take off your wheels and add your droop blocks under the car which are usually about 10mm tall you have now effectively raised your ride height to 14mm because your reference point is the tweak board. If I now measure from the tweak board to the axle do I take that measurement minus the droop blocks to get my droop measurement?

So, if my ride height is 4mm from the board. Then I take off my wheels and replace them with my droop blocks which are 10mm. My car is now 14mm off the tweak board. If I now measure from the tweak board to the top of the axle and that comes to 10mm is my droop now 4mm? Following that logic if my measurement to the top of the axle is 14mm I have 0mm droop and if the measurement is 16mm then I have -2mm droop.

Is that correct?
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:19 AM   #13682
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Way to go Shreff!!!
Now......share the wealth!!!
Setup please!!!!

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Old 02-26-2006, 09:32 AM   #13683
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Leadfoot the way we do it is set the ride height for ex at 5mm. Then set the chassis on the step for 7mm (this is for 2 over ride height). adjust droop screw until that side tire just barely touches. Hope that helps.

Fred I agree, I want to see his setup
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:37 AM   #13684
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When I measure droop above ride height, I check the ride height like normal, then lift the end of the car from the notch in the center of the shock tower until the tires are just touching the setup board. Then measure the ride height again from the same place. Take that height and subtract your ride height and you get your true droop measurement. Weather your ride height starts at 4mm or 6mm, when you lift it, the tires are going to just leave the board at the same time and you're going to get the same "up travel" measurement. The shocks are unloaded at this point so the spring tension has no effect. Only the droop screws and potentially shock length (if they're not long enough) will effect the droop. If the second measurement is 9mm when lifted, if you started with 4mm ride height, you now have 5mm of droop. If you started with 5mm of ride height you'd now only have 4mm of droop. So if you lower your ride height and want the same droop, you need to actually take some droop out of the car for it to be the same. Like I said, those droop gauges usually confuse people more than they help. I use them to make sure both sides are even and that's really it. Hope this explains what I mean. There's really no reason for putting the car up on blocks and subtracting that height etc... All that does is confuse things.
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:42 AM   #13685
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Jon I agree...I think we basically do it the same way.
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:27 AM   #13686
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Bob Barry, Jon Kerr

Thank you for the replies.

One last question and then I will shut up. When you measure ride height from the static position are you measuring the chassis just behind the bumper or the chassis just behind the tire in the front? The reason I ask is because on my Mi2 the bumper holder is not perfectly flush and is very difficult to measure the leading edged of the chassis unless I am home and I take off the bumper. I was wondering if it made a difference

Thanks again
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Old 02-26-2006, 12:34 PM   #13687
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On the front, I usually measure right behind the back pivot block and on the rear of the car I measure right in front of the front pivot block. That way screws don't effect it or like you said, the bumpers, and especially in the back, the chassis wear.
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Old 02-26-2006, 01:46 PM   #13688
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Adrian or PW. The product search on the website seems to be down. I guess I'll call you in the morning to place my order.
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:52 PM   #13689
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TurboDog You got PM
Jon You got PM
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:43 PM   #13690
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Yeah, boys, Schreff got his Schuie working great this weekend at Horsham. He earned TQ by a couple of seconds against several other national drivers in 19T including eXpress' own Mark Strasnick and Larry Fairtrace. His car was very, very good and there's more left in the car according to him.

The major adjustment from PW's setup at the Birds was the removal of the swaybar. Other than that, it's darn close. For any other minor changes to the PW carpet setup, Schreff would have to clarify further for you. (He's running oval today, so he hasn't been around.)

I'll be running mine hopefully by next weekend. It's finally built and ready to roll.
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:46 PM   #13691
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Quick question - has anyone tried a 48 pitch spur larger than 89tooth on the EC? I'm looking for ratio's to run the novak 4.5 and think I'd like to have a 92 tooth spur as an option - but not sure if it will fit without dropping through the chassis.
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:57 PM   #13692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_g
Quick question - has anyone tried a 48 pitch spur larger than 89tooth on the EC? I'm looking for ratio's to run the novak 4.5 and think I'd like to have a 92 tooth spur as an option - but not sure if it will fit without dropping through the chassis.
A 90 is the biggest 48P gear that will fit. 16T is the smallest commonly available pinion. This gets you a 10.12:1 ratio. In 64p you can run a 120/20 for a final drive of 10.8:1.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:03 PM   #13693
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From what I heard about the new 19 T motors I think our gearing will be closer to 41-116
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:07 PM   #13694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_g
Quick question - has anyone tried a 48 pitch spur larger than 89tooth on the EC? I'm looking for ratio's to run the novak 4.5 and think I'd like to have a 92 tooth spur as an option - but not sure if it will fit without dropping through the chassis.
I had the 120 on my EC but its risky,I have the 118t with a 21t pinion for a fdr of 10.11 and it works perfect with the Novak 4.5 i have the 120/22 for a fdr of 9.81 and the temp on the motor didnt get over 120 degrees. I like the 10.11 alot better has alot of rip out of the corner
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:22 PM   #13695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
From what I heard about the new 19 T motors I think our gearing will be closer to 41-116
Thats no problem...lol! The problem is BL motors that need FDR's in the 10+ range. We are actually in better shape in this matter than some other cars on the market .
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