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Old 02-25-2006, 03:14 AM   #13666
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Default Rear Belt Tension

Hi All,

Im having trouble with tension on my Mi2 rear belt, I cant seem to lossen it beyond a certain point. Everything is square and tightened properly, im not even using the rear tensioner at all but it still seems too tight.

Apart from dremmeling the bulkehead mounts, is there anything i can do?

Thanks in advance

Last edited by torps; 02-25-2006 at 03:46 AM.
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Old 02-25-2006, 04:49 AM   #13667
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Try Teemu's GP Carpet Wars Setup. He hit a dot and rolled while leading MR. If he hadn't we would have won the race

Here is a link to the post with the setup PDF.

Schumacher Corner
Thanks Adrian, will try it out next week!

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Old 02-25-2006, 07:02 AM   #13668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torps
Hi All,

Im having trouble with tension on my Mi2 rear belt, I cant seem to lossen it beyond a certain point. Everything is square and tightened properly, im not even using the rear tensioner at all but it still seems too tight.

Apart from dremmeling the bulkehead mounts, is there anything i can do?

Thanks in advance
I never ran the rear tensioner on the Mi2 and if everything is installed properly, the tension should be fine. One thing to check is the you don't have the layshaft mounts flipped around. The rear belt is going to feel a little tighter than the front simply because it's so much shorter.
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:17 AM   #13669
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I noticed that everywhere mentions that using 1 diff spacer per diff should be OK.

Is there too much slop if I remove the spacers completely?

I believe there is about 0.2mm movement side to side without the spacers, but the spacers are 0.3mm thick
Should this be OK?
If not, can anyone tell me where I can get some thinner spacers?

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:32 AM   #13670
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
If not, can anyone tell me where I can get some thinner spacers?

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2006, 02:07 PM   #13671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
...One thing to check is the you don't have the layshaft mounts flipped around. The rear belt is going to feel a little tighter than the front simply because it's so much shorter.
Thanks for your reply jon, but arent the layshaft mounts symmetrical? If so, ho can they be flipped?
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Old 02-25-2006, 02:16 PM   #13672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torps
Thanks for your reply jon, but arent the layshaft mounts symmetrical? If so, ho can they be flipped?
They are on the Mi2EC but not on the older Mi2. On an Mi2 you should see a 20 on the outside of the right layshaft mount. If you see a 17 and are using a 20T pulley the belt will be super tight.
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Old 02-25-2006, 02:39 PM   #13673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
They are on the Mi2EC but not on the older Mi2. On an Mi2 you should see a 20 on the outside of the right layshaft mount. If you see a 17 and are using a 20T pulley the belt will be super tight.
Ah, yes, i was thinking of the diff mounts, my apologies. and yes, I have the 17 pulley with 17 layshaft mount without tensioner and its still too tight. It has a definite impact on driveline efficiency. Not sure what to do apart from major surgery...
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:15 PM   #13674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torps
Ah, yes, i was thinking of the diff mounts, my apologies. and yes, I have the 17 pulley with 17 layshaft mount without tensioner and its still too tight. It has a definite impact on driveline efficiency. Not sure what to do apart from major surgery...
Nobody ever ran the 17 pulley. It worked fine but the reduced belt wrap on the 17 was not was efficient as the 20. Try the 20 and see if its diffrent.
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:53 PM   #13675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Nobody ever ran the 17 pulley. It worked fine but the reduced belt wrap on the 17 was not was efficient as the 20. Try the 20 and see if its diffrent.
Thanks Adrian, that helped a little. Though I wonder the the need for a belt tensioner at all. I suppose it ensures slightly longer belts could be used.

thanks again
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:53 PM   #13676
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Quote:
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Make sure your camber is set perfectly before you set droop as the angle of the axle can change your reading. Then take the wheels off and set the car on a flat setup board. Take your calipers and set them to the droop you need, i.e. 24mm. Use the back of the calipers where the rod extends to measure to the top of the axle and adjust until it's just touching the calipers. I hope that describes it right. If not, let me know and I'll take a pic and post it.
Can you please post a pic as I'm having trouble discerning exactly where to measure etc?

If I use a standard droop guage, the 'stepped' type, underneath the chassis, where am I tring to get the 'steps' bit to line up? Is it the pivot pin on the C Yoke or something else.

If anyone can post any pictures of the tool in use that would be even better.

Any help much appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 02-25-2006, 05:44 PM   #13677
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I THINK most people just go to the lowest part of the arm or c-hub. However as those parts are plastic you may get some varience and that is why we use the caliper. As Jon implied, set your droop as you normally would for a ruff. And then when its around where you want it to be, take of the wheels and use the calper (head down) to measure the distance from the flat surface to the top of the axel.

Here is a pic of Mark Payne measuring his arms (on a 12 scale) in the same manner. The difference is that you will be measuring the assembled fron end on the car while on top of droop blocks if you have any.

MEASURING DROOP
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:02 PM   #13678
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I am curious...how much do you guys use droop as a tuning option. I personally start the same everywhere. For those of you who do use it as a tuning option, how much do you change it and in what situation do you change it.

Oh and for the record I measure droop Xmm over ride height.
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:49 PM   #13679
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I heard Jason Schreffler really got his Shuie working well tonight on the rug with TQ against many top drivers and only 2 weeks on the car..Looking good..
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:59 PM   #13680
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I use droop as a tuning option from time to time. We'll change it .5mm here and there. Most of the setups I run are between 3mm and 4.5mm. For instance, tonight (before I killed the car ) Donny and I were doing some setup work with a one-way at SoCal and we both ended up with 3.5mm droop in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. With the spool there, I was running 4mm in the front and 4.5mm in the rear. (All above ride height.) So not huge differences but it's a fairly sensitive adjustment. Which is why I really like measuring droop above ride height more than any other method. Things like ride height and roll center changes will effect your droop. If you have 4mm droop in the rear and 5mm ride height, and change the ride height to 4.5, your going to now have more like 4.5mm droop. But if you're measuring using just a droop gauge or by axle height, You won't see any change. Droop gauges to me are good for making sure you've got it right from side to side.
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