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Old 02-14-2006, 07:25 AM   #13531
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Adrian,

I have a question for you on the Keyance Rapida. How do you set it up for stock touring? Do you use the built in programs or do you have your own program that you like to use?

Thanks
Bob
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Old 02-14-2006, 11:43 AM   #13532
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But Cop, You ARE REALLY old.

Jav, you aren't old, you're a classic. I thank you for all of your help and hard work.
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Old 02-14-2006, 12:47 PM   #13533
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Default Steering lever mod

Hey guys....here is something that I came up with for making the steering levers stronger. I know that a few guys have broken these locally and RC-Old man I think posted pics of what he was doing. I did this once I first got the car and I broke mine on the 3rd pack and it hasnt had a hint of failure now.

All you need is a T-bar from Assocaited....the thin or a thick T-bar will work. You need to open the hole of the T-bar so the bottom of the steering lever will sit inside of it. Once you have the hole large enough so the bottom of the steering lever will sit in the T-bar, you need to trace around the steering lever on the T-bar so you know where to cut. I just used a dremel tool to make all the cuts and to grind away all the unwanted part of the T-bar. You will end up with a copy of the steering lever as seen in the pictures. I just glued it to the bottom of the steering lever and used some filler to gusset the sides to make it a little stronger and hold better. Its easy to follow by looking at the pictures if you have any questions please feel free to ask.
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Schumacher Corner-tbar.jpg   Schumacher Corner-tbar2.jpg   Schumacher Corner-tbar3.jpg   Schumacher Corner-top.jpg   Schumacher Corner-brace.jpg  

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Old 02-14-2006, 12:48 PM   #13534
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last pic.....
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Schumacher Corner-bottom.jpg  
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Old 02-14-2006, 02:32 PM   #13535
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Nice work Kev, the only concern I have is clearance of the front arm mounts when raised more than 1mm. do the bellcranks still clear the blocks with the extra 1-2mm of material added?

I ran the corally cranks for a while on the Mi2, very clean solution, and allowed you to run the steering turnbuckles underneath the bellcrank and steering hub. But at the cost of no servo saver.

Im now running mine standard, but our track is fairly car friendly.
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Old 02-14-2006, 02:43 PM   #13536
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I just got some epoxy and filled it in around joints - to effectively make them into "fillets". Worked well. This was when i was trying to run these cranks on an off rd car. They weren't really up to it, but with the mod they were fine. Might still be on the car actually!!

Haven't had to do it for a while, as i haven't had a problem with the Mi2.
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Old 02-14-2006, 02:53 PM   #13537
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KingG.....I have raised up the mounts 2mm and I still have clearance.....Im not sure how much more you can go from that but at 2mm I still had room. I will check and let you know.
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Old 02-14-2006, 02:54 PM   #13538
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It's odd. In 18 months, I've never had a problem with the steering levers ever breaking.
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Old 02-14-2006, 03:05 PM   #13539
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Jon....I think it depends on the type of tracks that you race on. Around here all the tracks are 2x4 type tracks with walls and corners that are very unforgiving. When I broke the first one it wasnít even on that hard of a crash. I can remember one weekend when Jim Newberg went and broke about 4 or 5 of them. If your track is very forgiving and doesnít break much then you shouldnít have to worry about this but for the guys like me and some of the guys that race on these crazy small carpet tracks with "steel walls" aka 2x4's this might be something to look at if you are having an issue with breaking them.
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Old 02-14-2006, 03:15 PM   #13540
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SoCal is far from frogiving Brick walls on the outside and 4 poles in the middle. Just lucky I guess.

http://www.socalrc.com/images/orpano.jpg

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 02-15-2006 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 02-14-2006, 03:21 PM   #13541
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Looking at the picture from there the outside wall is far from forgiving but the inside lane markers look like you can just driver over them. The tracks around here are like what we raced on in Vegas but not as easy on the corners. The inside lane markers are what is tough on the cars....and looking at the pictures from SoCal I can see why you dont have any issues with breaking much.

http://www.intenseracewaypark.com/ph...asp?PHO_ID=394
This is my Local carpet track and its boards are far from forgiving.

http://www.intenseracewaypark.com/ph...asp?PHO_ID=135
This is the same track's outdoor track and these boards are very forgiving.
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Old 02-14-2006, 03:46 PM   #13542
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Wow. Nice tracks. I'm jealous. I can see how those 2x4's are tough on the cars. The reason SoCal is know for being hard on cars is that it's so high speed and a lot of the layouts have a corner or two where you're on the edge of clipping a dot at full speed that will send you straight into the wall. Or you're missing a pole by an inch. That layout in the pic is probably the easiest (and most fun) I've ever seen there. I wish they'd run it like that again.
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Old 02-14-2006, 04:02 PM   #13543
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Yeah this track is one of the best tracks that I have been to itís got everything.....indoor carpet, outdoor asphalt and outdoor dirt. I just wish it was closer to home....lol. Corner dots suck no matter what...lol....I can see how that would be an issue at So Cal. In Wisconsin at Scotty Ernst track "Trackside" he uses 2x4's and corner dots.....that makes for some crazy crashes and strange parts that end up broken. One thing it does when you race on a 2x4 type track is that it gets you to end up fearing the walls as they will break your car in an instant.....just like Iím sure you are afraid of the dots. When guys that have never raced on a track with dots before they end up hitting them and flying off the track.....same thing with guys that are use to dots that race on board type tracks end up breaking more. This is what makes racing fun there are so many types of tracks and different approaches to them that itís never really the same.
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Old 02-14-2006, 04:18 PM   #13544
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Outdoor w/ Road Rails. That's where I'm comfortable.

http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//LaMiradaPanorama.jpg
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Old 02-15-2006, 03:20 AM   #13545
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Droop !!!

Building the Mi2EC as we speak and Teemu's droop measuring is slightly confusing.....

Can anyone give me a conversion of his figures to a standard droop guage or using the Associated measuring system?

Thanks !
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