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Old 01-29-2006, 10:21 PM   #13186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Hey Jon, I notice that you change roll center by using the riser plates and shimming up the entire bulkhead. I am coming from the AE camp where the main roll center adjustments were with the inboard camber links. I actually ran my car with the rear link up because I wanted it to rotate more. It did rotate but the car ran flatter because of less chassis roll. Wouldn't it be better to change roll center this way in stead of shimming the entire bulhead?
He is not shimming up the bulkhead, rather the arm mounts. So he is using the suspension arm riser plate plus 1mm of shimming to adjust roll center on the rear as an example. The upper camber link upper and lower holes are for a finer tuning.
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:46 PM   #13187
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Like Donny said, I wasn't raising the bulkhead, just the suspension arms. And if my thinking is correct, raising the inner rear camber links position will actually lower the roll center. Raising the outer rear link position will raise the roll center. (If I'm thinking backward because it's late and I'm tired, please correct me someone. )
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Old 01-30-2006, 12:41 AM   #13188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavy
When I pulled it out and replaced the pin I again tightened it up (so tight I stripped the hex in the grub screw ) even with it that tight the pin can still slide in and out. The conclusion is that the grub screw thread is not cut right through the cylinder and no matter how tight I make it it is just tightening up in the thread not on the pin.
Heavy,
Several things you can try.....

1. Find a flat bladed screwdriver to fit diagonally across the hex. It will probably need to be tapped in to ensure a tight fit. Then (if possible) heat up the outside of the cylinder (maybe use a soldering iron to create some expansion), then try to unscrew the grub screw.

2. Drill out the grub screw and insert an "ezy-out". Heat up cylinder and try and unscrew. If you don't have this tool or the grub screw is too small then try the next option.

3. Drill out the grub screw totally (without destroying the thread in the cylinder), then with a small screwdriver, try and "cave in" the grub screw towards the centre. The screw should just fall out with a few turns.

Hope this helps.....
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Old 01-30-2006, 04:04 AM   #13189
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Thanks mate. I actually got the grub screw out - drilled it out and preserved the thread and then cut the thread right in and now everything is perfect.

I still want to know the part number of the new cylinder.

I could have used driveshafts from the Mi2 if I'd really been stuck but everything is go now.
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Old 01-30-2006, 05:39 AM   #13190
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Did any of you guys have missing parts in your kits? For the life of me I can find my c/f spacer for the motor mount. Are those parts in stock @ShumacherUSA?
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Old 01-30-2006, 06:14 AM   #13191
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Does anybody have a good starting setup for carpet foam tires??? If so can you post it or PM me??? Thanks in advance....
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Old 01-30-2006, 06:50 AM   #13192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Did any of you guys have missing parts in your kits? For the life of me I can find my c/f spacer for the motor mount. Are those parts in stock @ShumacherUSA?
If you are missing something call us and we will get you want you need. Most EC parts are in stock now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by The Teacher
Does anybody have a good starting setup for carpet foam tires??? If so can you post it or PM me??? Thanks in advance....
The PW foam setup in the instruction manual is the starting setup for foam tires. It's so good most people make changes to it and end up going back to the kit setup.
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Old 01-30-2006, 07:20 AM   #13193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavy
hi guys - i need some help with an issue.

During building I pulled the driveshafts apart and retightened and threadlocked teh grub screws as per recommendations on this thread. One of mine still dropped it's pin on the second run.

When I pulled it out and replaced the pin I again tightened it up (so tight I stripped the hex in the grub screw ) even with it that tight the pin can still slide in and out. The conclusion is that the grub screw thread is not cut right through the cylinder and no matter how tight I make it it is just tightening up in the thread not on the pin.

I need to buy a new cylinder as I can't get the grub screw out. On the old driveshafts it was possible to buy the cylinder (U2694) but they won't fit the new U3020 driveshafts. Anyone know a part number for the new cylinder or do I have to buy a full set of drive shafts.
We have a rebuild kit from Titanium Racing and it fits perfectly.
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Old 01-30-2006, 08:01 AM   #13194
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Teacher,

Like Adrain said, use the PW setup in the back of the manual, it is a killer setup to start with (and finish with). Paul did a great job coming up with this one. Hope that helps...
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:13 AM   #13195
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Thanks guys!
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:20 AM   #13196
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I'll have the set up I ran this weekend posted shortly on www.gearchart.com
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:19 AM   #13197
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:27 AM   #13198
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Thanks Adrian, I'll give you guys a call.

Speaking of Paragon, I find that that stuff is the most consistent stuff on my car. I've tried stickum (Doesn’t last until the end of the race), I've tried the carpet stuff in the little white bottle, forgot the name but (might as well add water to my tires), while paragon always works.

What do you guys use for asphalt racing?
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:31 AM   #13199
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I think Stickum works with VHT only, but if you have a track that is sprayed with grade soda then SXT or tweak is the way to go . But tq being repaved and whatever you should buy a bottle of sxt or tweak because thats going to be used more that now the track is going to be sprayed with soda.
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Old 01-30-2006, 12:54 PM   #13200
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