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Old 01-10-2006, 03:03 PM   #12736
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Yes sanding the rings with 600 grit does make a big difference - i've been doing this for a long time. So far i would say that is the single biggest improvement i have done to diffs.

Might try some CA on them, i don't know - i have a brand new diff sitting on my bench at this moment..........hmm
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:19 PM   #12737
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Sand and glue is the best!
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:37 PM   #12738
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hey are there any tips on getting the cir clip out of the diff out drive?? holds the thrust bearing in last time i tried i broke one and righ now i have no spares? i tried to use and automotive circlip tool but the tip was to big is there something else i can do please help dont feel like wait for a week for ascrew kit to come from other side of australia
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:57 PM   #12739
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I used a pair of straight body scissors and dremeled the tips into a point that will fit the c-clips. They suck for body scissors now but you can still cut other stuff with the back of the blade. They work really well for removing c-clips though.
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:09 PM   #12740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
hey are there any tips on getting the cir clip out of the diff out drive?? holds the thrust bearing in last time i tried i broke one and righ now i have no spares? i tried to use and automotive circlip tool but the tip was to big is there something else i can do please help dont feel like wait for a week for ascrew kit to come from other side of australia
I have a pair of cheap round nose pliers that I got from my local hardware store for about a dollar and they work great. I dont know what its like down under but here most hardware stores have a cheap tool section take a look there maybe.
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:43 PM   #12741
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I bought an inexpensive circlip pliers from Dick Smith Electronics.

I had to file a small portion off the tips to fit the schumacher circlip hole size, but they work perfectly and cost me just a few bucks
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Old 01-10-2006, 07:24 PM   #12742
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hey do you guys seal up your batteryholder with ca?? i know your ment to sand and then putdrops of super glue on the chassis but do u guys do it to the battery tray and strap??
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Old 01-10-2006, 07:46 PM   #12743
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I personally dont bother C.A any of my chassis edges..I sand them round, and use wed / dry fine grit to give a glass like finish to the edges.
I havent had a problem with delaminating chassis in the time Ive raced.
I figure a hit hard enough to delaminate a rounded edge would still damage one with a thin layer of C.A.

I do file the edges of the battery slots slightly to prevent it cutting the cells shrinkwrap.
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:55 PM   #12744
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hey guys what soldering iron do u reckomend to do battery building and general wiring and repairs? 60watt or 80 watt or 100watt??
and why? is a temp adjustable iron wether waiting and saving for??
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:49 PM   #12745
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You'll want to get the best iron you can get with the widest tip you can get. An adjustable temp iron like the Hakko 936 that I use is nice but not a necessity. I used a Hakko 80 watt iron for a long time. It's cheap, comes with a big wide tip that's perfect for doing batteries. The key when doing batteries is to only have the tip on the cell for 1-2 seconds. You don't want to heat up the cells too much or you can damage them.
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:58 PM   #12746
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For battery assembly you should get a 100W 700'F (or an 80 Watt like Jon said) soldering iron with a 1/4 tip. The WELLER 100P is a very goood sldering iron to do packs. You can do most connections in less than 2 seconds.

For eveything else, any good station will do.
You do not want to use a lowwattage station to build batteries unless you are very good at soldering. The longest time you want to keep an iron on as battery tab is 5 seconds. After that you are asking for trouble.

You do not need more than 50W for general soldering like wires to the ESC and to the motor.

60/40 solder melta at around 420'F and Silver solder at around 470'F
What you need for battery/tab soldering is an iron with enough POWER not heat.
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:49 AM   #12747
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does the pro diff rebuild kit in clude a pro thrust bearing or just a standard bearing?
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Old 01-11-2006, 03:38 AM   #12748
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Default MI2 bith BMI Chassis

Does anyone here have a base setup for a BMI2 on asphalt with rubbers? Has anyone here been able to compare the handling of the BMI2 to the EC? Id be interested in knowing the diffirence. I just got my MI2 a short while ago and have only run it once with foams and it felt realy great but we have a club race this weekend and Im going over to rubber so would apreciate any help that you may be able to give me.



Thanks
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Old 01-11-2006, 04:06 AM   #12749
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Default Set up

Marcos has a hot set-up that he ran this past weekend.
Shot him over a P.M. and I'm sure he will help you out.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/marcos-j-8722.html


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Old 01-11-2006, 07:49 AM   #12750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SA_Racer
Does anyone here have a base setup for a BMI2 on asphalt with rubbers? Has anyone here been able to compare the handling of the BMI2 to the EC? Id be interested in knowing the diffirence. I just got my MI2 a short while ago and have only run it once with foams and it felt realy great but we have a club race this weekend and Im going over to rubber so would apreciate any help that you may be able to give me.



Thanks
Great setup for BMI2 (rubber/asphalt)
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