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Old 01-05-2006, 04:32 AM   #12646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
hey guys do u use the 37oo battery strap with ib3600 ib3800 and gp3700?? i just shimmed the old one but was given a 3700 and dunno wether or not to use it??
Try it. if it fits good, then use it. If not, continue with your current arrangements.

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Old 01-05-2006, 07:46 AM   #12647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Older Mi2 question:

Noticed the top-deck of the new car looks to be more flexible in design-would it be beneficial to take a dremel to the older top deck (i.e. remove the section than connects the two extensions which screw to the bulkhead) so the design is the same? I have a BMI chassis now (bottom plate only) and the car is crazy-stiff. Any suggestions on getting a slight bit of flex are welcome, I run asphalt medium traction. Also when is more chassis stiffness better, tight tracks or more open tracks? Anyone get to try the new shocks on the older car yet? Thats it for now...
I'm not a big fan of cutting top decks simply because they can effect the tweak of the car by how much they flex one way vs. another. You'll never see the tweak setting the car up but if it's flexing more one way than another, you'll have some funky handling. If you need more flex, I'd suggest picking up the BMI flex top deck. It's 2mm and CNC machined like all his stuff. And it should provide uniform flex.

Normally, a stiffer car will work betting in higher grip applications. More flex for lower grip applications. It allows the car to give a little more and will get more grip.
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Old 01-05-2006, 09:45 AM   #12648
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defiinately pick up the BMI top deck, get the lowered towers while your there
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:37 AM   #12649
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Regarding the rear hub adapters. Does anyone know how Paul was spacing the adapter after cutting the stock plastic spacers flush with the alloy adapter? I noticed there is 0 room for error as the inner part of the wheel will rub on the hinge pin if the adapter is not perfectly placed hence why im thinking about cutting the stock spacer.


Quote:
Very straight forward...Slide the 0deg insert into the hub with the hinge-pin hole to the bottom. Center the insert in the hub and snug the set-screw (grub screw).

I personally did mine a different way; I put the insert flush to one side on the hub and then cut the insert flush to the other side. Then use spacers to center the hub instead. I recommend the first instruction just for testing, if you like the hubs then look into the second method
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:41 AM   #12650
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can someone post pictures of this setup option: "...Tower spaced 2.5mm forward...."
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:54 AM   #12651
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hey king g did the car come with the purple anod axles? if so thats awesome!!
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:24 AM   #12652
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Island- I used some aluminum spacers I drilled out to fit the hinge pin diameter when I did that modification. I believe it was 1.5mm in front of the hob Carrier and 2mm in the rear. You can use the spacers as a fine adjustment for the rear wheelbase as well when you do it this way.

As for the shock tower spacing, I don't have a picture here of it but you just take 4, 2.5mm spacers and put them behind the front shock tower and use longer screws. This brings the front camber links more in line with the front CVD's and gives the car the proper camber gain. We do the same thing in the rear of the car as well.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:27 AM   #12653
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Gav, told you it built well!!!!!

John_s, yes they are kit std axles.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:13 PM   #12654
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Quote:
...You can use the spacers as a fine adjustment for the rear wheelbase as well when you do it this way.
Ahhh. so your not putting the spacers for the shock mounts btwn the shock mounts themselves and the outdrive mounts. Not on the ball studs themselves! I was wondering how the heck you guys were still able to screw on the nuts with the ball studs being so short.

As far a sthe rear hub carriers go, I'll have to find some material to do the spacers for the hub carier before i cut then.
Thanks
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:31 PM   #12655
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I think the spacers I ended up using were Tamiya. They have aluminum shims that are 2, 2.5, & 3mm. I'm sure the Take-off ones will work too. You just need to drill them out to fit the hinge pins. You could also use the quick click spacers that are used for the wheel base adjustments on the suspension arms.
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Old 01-05-2006, 06:17 PM   #12656
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hey my diff came completly loose last meeting and a limped the car across the line now i was wondering could i have damaged the diffs? also how do you tell when a diff rebuild is due?? im going tobuy a spare front belt so was going to buy the grey supper flex belt as im only running 540(kit tamiya motor) and stock does this sound ok?? i striped my torx driver so im waiting for a new one and no allen keys work so my cars shelved until i order it have to wait till dad comes home damit so i might as well order somegood quality tools so have u guys heard of 3 racing? should i just stick with duratrax and hudy i just want good quality but 3racing are half the price of hudy tools. opinion??
what upgrades should i buy for my mi2 so far i have:
lower shock towers
aluminium rear hinge mounts
spur gear adaptor
and aluminium wheel hex's
i just put a diff skrew kit thrue and a thefront diff
alo have a standard rear belt waiting to go in (shouldi soak it in wd40 heard it free's them up?)
just a few question trying to get the most out of my newly aquired mi2 lol
thanks all
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Old 01-05-2006, 06:39 PM   #12657
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king G, that is one sweet ride. .
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:10 PM   #12658
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yeah, and wait till you see the shocks...Im pretty darn impressed with how tricked up it is out of the box, I really can't see the need for hopups.

maybee some TiR ballstuds? Im not bothering with Ti screws anymore, the black hex screws provided are awesome! I found Ti screws strip too easily! i havent found any on the market that are hard enough, most contain allot of alloy.
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:42 PM   #12659
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the only hop up it could use would be rear alloy hubs.
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Old 01-05-2006, 07:59 PM   #12660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
hey my diff came completly loose last meeting and a limped the car across the line now i was wondering could i have damaged the diffs? also how do you tell when a diff rebuild is due?? im going tobuy a spare front belt so was going to buy the grey supper flex belt as im only running 540(kit tamiya motor) and stock does this sound ok?? i striped my torx driver so im waiting for a new one and no allen keys work so my cars shelved until i order it have to wait till dad comes home damit so i might as well order somegood quality tools so have u guys heard of 3 racing? should i just stick with duratrax and hudy i just want good quality but 3racing are half the price of hudy tools. opinion??
what upgrades should i buy for my mi2 so far i have:
lower shock towers
aluminium rear hinge mounts
spur gear adaptor
and aluminium wheel hex's
i just put a diff skrew kit thrue and a thefront diff
alo have a standard rear belt waiting to go in (shouldi soak it in wd40 heard it free's them up?)
just a few question trying to get the most out of my newly aquired mi2 lol
thanks all
Note step 10 on the attached instruction page. The setscrew locks the diff adjustment. If this is done properly I can't see how the diff could loosen.

I rebuild the diff when it starts to feel gritty or notchy.

When you rebuild you diff on an old Mi2 get a new set of diff balls (U2459) and a thrust bearing (U1954). This thrust bearing will last the life of the car (U1954 thrust bearings are stock on the Mi2EC's ).

When you rebuild the diff on any Mi2 old or EC sand you diff rings on both sides with 600 grit until you see an even pattern of sanding marks across the full face of the ring on both sides of the ring. It's amazing how much longer the diff lasts if you do this. You can run it a lot looser without it slipping too.

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