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Old 11-12-2005, 04:41 AM   #11746
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The outdrive bearings are the big ones that the diffs run in. They are 10X15 in size.

Check if one of the blue seals has fallen off as this seems to happen a lot with the standard bearings.

It's easy for the bearing to get very gritty once that seal has fallen off.
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Old 11-12-2005, 04:44 AM   #11747
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OK most definitely no blue seals. But the bearings all seem to be fairly free.

(is there a more appropriate place to ask these questions?)

Cheers,

Shags
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:33 AM   #11748
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You're in the right place. When you take the motor out, try and spin the drive train by turning the spur gear. Make sure that the wheels spin free. If the left rear hangs, you've probably got a problem with either a wheel bearing or something in the axle. Take apart the whole left rear assembly and make sure everything is free. Also check it with the wheel on and off. If the wheel is off and it feels free and locks up with a wheel being tightened down, it's usually a wheel bearing.
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:35 AM   #11749
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Also make sure the spacer is inbetween the two bearings in the hub.



Quote:
Originally Posted by shags_j
I Need help quick!!!!

Hey guys,
Wanted to race tomorrow and i'm somewhat new to the hobby. So i went to the track to practice and have encountered a problem.

Was driving and I suddenly spun round. Found out that the left rear wheel keeps stopping. I have taken the diff apart and lubed etc and it still happens. Someone help me please...


EDIT: sorry guys i have an MI2.

Cheers,

Shags
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:26 AM   #11750
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It is probably a rear bearing. As the bearings get old and wear, the cage that holds the balls apart ( no jokes wears and deforms, and can get caught or wedged underneath the balls as they are running, causing intermittent binding. Of course you should cheack all the other usualls-make sure your bearings are clean, the hexes arent hitting the hubs, bearing spacers in between bearings etc.. The best thing you can do is just replace the bearings. Schumacher has a nice ceramic kit just coming out at a reasonable price. -Jeff
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Old 11-12-2005, 02:30 PM   #11751
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Thanks guys. Will give it all a go. Don't think i'll be racing today though

Cheers,

Shags
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Old 11-12-2005, 04:08 PM   #11752
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Can we us the same bodies off out Mi2 on the new Mi2EC
I noticed that the rear body post on the Mi2EC are on the shock towers.

I'm thinking the answer is going to be no...........but just wanted to check.


Later,
E
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Old 11-12-2005, 04:40 PM   #11753
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just drill new rear body mount holes in the body
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Old 11-12-2005, 06:30 PM   #11754
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I know it would just suck drilling extra holes on a expensive Roly painted body.


Thanks MO............

Later,
E

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Old 11-12-2005, 06:35 PM   #11755
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hmmm when i bought my Mi2 in april this year i bulit it and the rear diff was way to tight from production. i loosened it a bit but now the diff wont tighten up it always becomes loose. is the the diff disc springs that need changing, but i bought a new rear diff i just wanted to know how i can fix it.

another thing the screw in the rear diff filled up with some white putty kind of thing what is up with that?


sorry for the long post.
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:17 PM   #11756
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Have you rebuilt the diff since then? If not I'm sure it needs it. I'd rebuild it with all new parts. Also chack and make sure the set screw is backed out when you're trying to tighten it up.
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:33 PM   #11757
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hi, i have 2 rear diffs, and ive got one in the car which is all good. i have a spare screw set for the diff which i will put in. ill keep you informed on what happens. and also what is the white putty in the screw from
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:05 PM   #11758
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No idea what the white "putty" is. Maybe diff grease mixed with some dust or something from the track. I usually rebuild the diff every 5-6 race days and every 3-4 months or so (depending on where and how much I race) I'll rebuild with all new parts. You can get the Pro Diff Rebuild kit ( part # U2629 ) This includes everything in the diff except the outdrives and pulley's. When I first build a new diff, before you put the car on the track the first time, you should break it in on the bench by applying just a little throttle and holding one rear wheel for 5-10 seconds, then hold the other for the same amount of time. This will help break in the new diff and help all the parts seat properly. Also, I leave it a little on the tight side for the first run. Everything will break in and seat and will loosen up. Then I go back and do final adjustments after the first run and it should be set from there.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:10 PM   #11759
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i just got a new mi2 and pulled it apart and thought the diff was rather loose i tried tighting it but didnt have much luck i found the diff locking screw lol doh but my q is how do u know if the diff is the right tightness or tension??
they say tighten till screw i tight then back of 1/4 turn it still semmed loose.
this is my first tc with ball diffs so any help would be great
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:38 PM   #11760
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I'd rebuild the diff first. Make sure everything is clean and that there's no flat spots on the diff balls. If there are they'll need to be replaced. Lightly sand the diff rings with VERY fine grit sand paper and clean them off. Rebuild it exactly as the directions say. Tighten it until it feels like it's just about bottomed out, then back it off a 1/4 turn. Then break it in like a posted above. Final settings on it should be fairly loose. You really don't want your diff too tight. If you can hold one wheel and the spur and try to turn the opposite wheel, you should just barely be able to make it slip. But only just a little. Just make sure it's not slipping when on the track. Too tight a diff can make for a very erratic handling car and too loose can cost you punch coming out of the corners and can damage parts.
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