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Old 01-28-2002, 11:02 PM   #1141
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This is my setup from the Australian nationals. Outdoor tarmack track. Quite open but with three hairpins, a little bumpy in two places but otherwise smooth. The car handled really well compared to the others on the track and back to back with my previous car. It was a little loose at the rear on turn in and then pushed on exit if you didn't get the line right, but this generally happened at higher speeds than normal cars, so how could I complain?

front-
tires- UFRA Foam 35 Front Jap medium.
toe in - 0 deg, 0 in-board
caster- 13 deg (all the way back)
chamber- 2 deg neg gives even tire wear
Upper susp mount - 2 (lower)
on hub pivot- 2
sway bar - std. connected
kick up- none
ride height - 5.0mm
droop- 4mm
inboard toe - 0 deg
SHOCKS
springs-Corally/Serpent White (about the same a std. Blue, just shorter)
oil- 40 weight
Piston - 2 holes
top mount - hole 2
bottom-inside hole

rear
tires- UFRA Foam 35 Rear Jap medium.
toe in - 2 deg
chamber- 2 deg neg
Upper susp mount - 2 (lower)
on hub pivot- 2
sway bar - disconnected
anti- squat- none
ride height- 5.0mm
droop- 4mm
inboard toe - 0 deg.
SHOCKS
springs - Corally/Serpent yellow. harder than Schu blue, I'd guess red or yellow.
oil - 35 weight
Piston - 2 hole
top mount- hole 4
bottom- inside hole

electronics
motor- Atlas Matrix v9.0 (MVP based)
Batteries- Trinity Stock Metal Hydrides
servo- Hitech HS-925MG
speedo- LRP v7.1
reciever- Sanwa/Airtronics
gearing 38mm rollout (should have been 40) 20 tooth pulley
Front One way diff - Yes

If anyone tries this, tell me what you think. I'd love to get some feedback!
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Old 01-28-2002, 11:09 PM   #1142
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Well, the good thing is that you can get the threaded bodies, clips and an aluminium pulley. The rear toe-in link can be moved down to ease the spring changing operation. Small ride height trimming can also be made by screwing the lower balls in/out of the hubs.
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Old 01-28-2002, 11:22 PM   #1143
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Yeah, I know all of the problems can be overcome, nothing major, I just must be getting lazy! Maybe I should have bought a 'Luxury' Touring Car? I forgot to mention that even though the car never got a true test, it seems really strong! Everytime I checked the geometry, it was spot on. Not like my Corally which would change settings if you sneazed! Could never figure out why!
Also forgot to mention that everyone who took a look said what a good looking car this is! Just a couple more alloy purpolinium parts like the layshaft mounts and Battery posts and I'll be set!
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Old 01-28-2002, 11:51 PM   #1144
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ADRIAN-


I may have found my problems... as to getting the rear-end to settle down. I was looking thru the manual and noticed something I overlooked while building. The shock stays even though they look indentical, are different, could this cause a traction problem in the rear-end if they were swapped accidentally? (like I did...DOH!!)
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Old 01-29-2002, 01:15 AM   #1145
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BagOf Skill - Read your email but wanted to say that I think we both did really well considering there was only two Schumachers there. its rather hard beatring teams of Corallys, TC3s and XRays. We hardly got any practice. First time for me on foams with a new car and track so i was happy to be competitive in the A(excluding 3rd final!) You did well also but im afraid stock is a matter of gearing the crap pout of motors. I had my Group 20 at 42mm at magic Kingdom when I wona couple of years back. Didnt seem to hurt the motor much but you have to gear up to beat these guys.
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Old 01-29-2002, 01:24 AM   #1146
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Yeah, I know that now! I felt some of the A finalists motors after thier races and still have the can vents burned onto my fingertips! I know it was a hot day but that was rediculous! Next time I'll just have to be barbaric from the start!
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Old 01-29-2002, 02:30 AM   #1147
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Is anyone using clamping hexes in their Shuies? I've seen some on HPIs, Xpresses and Yokomos. The newer Yokomos have larger axle diameter, but some hexes might work on Mission as well. Does HPI have 5 mm axle?
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Old 01-29-2002, 04:47 AM   #1148
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Clamping hexes would be nice, but I don't know of any that fit. Most metric cars (all I've seen) use a 5mm axle with a drive pin of 2mm diam. and10mm length. Schu's use a drive pin 1.5mm diam. and 11.8mm long. If only you could open up the hole in the axle to 2.05mm but the shaft is hardened so it's damn near impossible. But schumacher make thier own purpolinium hexes that are secured with O-rings. Part No. U2401A.
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Old 01-29-2002, 04:57 AM   #1149
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The pin wouldn't be a problem. Clamping hexes would be nice to free up the bearings. Perhaps I'll first take a look at the Schuies own hexes. It's funny that there's no company making aftermarket parts for Schuie cars.
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Old 01-29-2002, 05:18 AM   #1150
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Jesse, In my experience clamping hexes do not take load off the bearings as they cannot clamp that tight. Proper shimming is the only way to do this. The main benifit of the clamp is that you get the solidity of a alloy hex without the bother of pins sliding out whenever you remove a wheel or the hassle of the O-ring interfeering with some rims. You may be able to shorten a Schuie pin to 10mm but unless the pin is the right diameter the slop everytime you accelerate will brake the pin or damage the hex in the same way the pulleys are being affected. The other big advantage, They look cool!
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Old 01-29-2002, 05:39 AM   #1151
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You're probably right about the clamping force...

Last edited by JesseT; 01-29-2002 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 01-29-2002, 10:12 AM   #1152
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Jesse, If you want a little end float in the shaft/axle hub assembly that isn't a problem. Remove the coned washer and add 2 of the thin shims then the hex.

Dave S, yes that should be possible to convert your 99 to an axis. The only difference between the cars is chassis, motor mount, belts and rear lower housing (99 pro can be modified to fit axis)
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Old 01-29-2002, 07:56 PM   #1153
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Ok, how about posting some setups from the Novak race. Kevin it looked like Paul W was running Yokomo springs. Timmy's car looked great, do you know what setup he was using? Kevin I always am interested in your setup, can you post it?
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Old 01-29-2002, 09:43 PM   #1154
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I currently have an RC Lab 6 but am looking to get a second/replacement car and was eyeing the new Mission. I was wondering how everyone thought it might compare to the RC Lab and other touring cars. My major concern with the Lab was its lackluster manual and parts support (hop-ups dont have instructions, not all the parts are included...you have to know you will need something else when you are hopping up some other parts, etc)

Does the Mission suffer from these same problems? How is the manual and after market support?

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2002, 10:11 PM   #1155
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I built my Mission about a month or so ago and raced it two days ago for the first time.

I thought the manual was fine, I had no problems at all in that area. I didn't hop up the car at all, just built it straight from the book, and right out of the box it was competitive.

I don't think you'll find the level of aftermarket support for the Shumacher line of cars that you'll see for other brands, but I also don't see the need. The Mission is a magnificent chassis right out of the box, and the few upgrades you might want are available through Schumacher.

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