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Old 10-11-2005, 04:23 AM   #11311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
I don't have a normal setup as the car is never any good!
I run less droop in the front than rear (2.5-3mm front - 3-4mm rear)
Looks like you got the droop wrong, 2,5 is more than 3 in this case, as you measure kind of "up-side-down". Your setting will give a rather weird car, I'd recommend 4,5mm front and 3mm rear.

I doubt you need a really extreme setup, what I would recommend you to get is the riser plates, a one-way and the thin anti rollbars, the car is just so much better with those on.

If you don't want to buy anything else just put the anti rollbar in the rear that comes with the car.
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Old 10-11-2005, 04:36 AM   #11312
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well mishark2 is running well I run the alloy rear hubs and would like to know how the inserts effect the car. As of now its loose out of the turn when I nail the throttle. Im using the 0 insert with the errow pointing to the front of the car.

Last edited by rcshark; 10-11-2005 at 04:40 AM. Reason: cant spell
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Old 10-11-2005, 04:45 AM   #11313
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I think more of Jason's problems is that his and my car, (we race together) is very similarly setup and mine appears to have a fair bit better steering than his.

The biggest difference's in the cars is mine has the Teemu chassis and I use a Mazda 6, he has the dodge 2. He tried my body last weekend, and noticed a difference, but he thinks it wasn't huge, but it was only for half a battery pack??

How much difference would going from the dodge 2 to the mazda 6 make??

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Old 10-11-2005, 05:25 AM   #11314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirre
Looks like you got the droop wrong, 2,5 is more than 3 in this case, as you measure kind of "up-side-down". Your setting will give a rather weird car, I'd recommend 4,5mm front and 3mm rear.

I doubt you need a really extreme setup, what I would recommend you to get is the riser plates, a one-way and the thin anti rollbars, the car is just so much better with those on.

If you don't want to buy anything else just put the anti rollbar in the rear that comes with the car.
I measure droop as travel above ride height, not with a droop gauge - so 2.5 is less than 3.

Can't run one-ways on our tracks - we need brakes on a few corners.

I have the roll bar set - one track is too bumpy to use them, and on the other track they don't seem to make any difference.
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:34 AM   #11315
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The only thing I can think of to try is run 2 degree castor blocks with 1mm antidive and raise the rear roll centre by 2 or 3mm? Sounds radical but I'm desperate

Iain, I should've got you to try the dodge - perhaps you'd notice the difference more than me.
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:02 AM   #11316
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Yeah ok Jason, next time we'll swap bodies for a couple of races!!
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Old 10-11-2005, 07:41 AM   #11317
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Here's a couple suggestions. One thing we're doing is raising the front camber link ALOT. The position we're currently running is 4mm above the top row middle hole on the carpet towers. Also we're raising the rear camber link about 1.5mm higher than the top row middle. Just use a drill and slot that hole upward 1.5mm. Also the Schuie White/White combo and 30wt. fr/35wt. rear. Use the thin sway bars all around and raise the rear 1 or 1.5mm above the riser plate in the back. Move the front arms all the way back also. This should give more turn in. Also on thing I used this weekend when I had a bit of under steer was a body change. I put the Yokomo Stratus E body on the car and it was strapped. I try not to do that normally but it worked. I never did like the Stratus 2.0 body at all. I always felt it lacked overall grip and was "pushy loose."

The rear alloy hubs give different geometry that you can't get with the stock rear hub carriers and they do free up the car considerably. One thing thats different is the height of the center of the axle to the center of the outer hinge pin. I believe on the alloy that distance is shorter. The inserts give you more adjustability for the rear toe adjustment. If you have the alloy rear pivot blocks, that'll give you 2 of inboard toe. The inset with the 0 on it will keep you at 2. If you put in the 1 insert with it facing forward, this will give you 3 on each side. Put the 1 insert in backward and this will take out toe.
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Old 10-11-2005, 11:11 AM   #11318
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A big thanks to Paul, Adrian, and Fernando for helping me out this week at the nats. A little disappointed in my finish, but the car handled great and I had a lot of fun.
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Old 10-11-2005, 01:28 PM   #11319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
One thing we're doing is raising the front camber link ALOT. The position we're currently running is 4mm above the top row middle hole on the carpet towers.
Yep, I've done that. It seemed to help for about 2 minutes of the first run when I tried it, now I don't notice the difference anymore

Quote:
Also the Schuie White/White combo and 30wt. fr/35wt. rear.
Every time I make the front softer by either dampening or springs I lose steering - the car feels unresponsive and it's hard to get it to turn into corners

Quote:
Move the front arms all the way back also.
Yep, the arms are all the way back - Iain tried this and said it made a big difference, I personally didn't feel any change - but I've left it like that in the hope that it is helping in some way.

I did notice the car turned in a little better with the Mazda6, especially at high speed - but again, it was a small improvement - I'd need to find about 50 "small" improvements to get the car the way I want it

Quote:
One thing thats different is the height of the center of the axle to the center of the outer hinge pin. I believe on the alloy that distance is shorter.
So the closer the axle and hinge pin are (on the rear) the more it free's up the car? I didnt know that. I don't want to buy any more parts - but I may have some other hub carriers I can use that will do the same thing. I will have to have a look tonight.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:19 PM   #11320
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Just another quick question: When running on rubber tyres, how much steering throw should you use?

Is it best to have maximum lock available so you can use it when needed (i.e: tight corners) or does everyone turn down the steering rate down to limit overall steering lock?
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:32 PM   #11321
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Seems strange, i can't ever think of a time when i've had sooo much understeer. Just out or interest, have you tried another servo?? what servo are you running??

As for set-up thoughts, must admit i can't think of much that the others haven't mentioned. You are right that white front springs will make the car "more chilled" entering the turn, this is usually the reason we run it over here. I never run anything stiffer than white rears, and never stiffer than blue fronts on tarmac.

My first changes would be pivot heights(roll ctr). If you are running alloy block rear, plastic front you are running the front higher than the rear. We usually run in the region of 1mm higher at the rear. Although i haven't run std rear hubs for over a year, so can't remember how it would work with them.

Associated hubs can be made to fit, but you'll need to be prepared to do some work. Alloy ones are easier.

Make sure you have your cells all the way in, and i would say back for more turn in.

Have you played with steering ackermann at all?? a shorter centre link should give more turn in.

As for lock, i always run with a 1.5mm (ish) spacer glued to the caster block to limit lock. There is too much as standard.

Another thing, i wouldn't expect Sorex 36's to have all tha tmuch steering. Sorex tyres are generally smoother i tend to find, but with more forward traction. Maybe something a touch softer, or with a thinner insert. I don't remember seeing what you are running.

Last edited by MattW; 10-11-2005 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:37 PM   #11322
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I will normally leave the radio at 90-100% dual rate. I do glue a 2mm spacer to the inside of the spindle thought to limit the throw of the steering so the inside wheel doesn't over steer.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:42 PM   #11323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW
Seems strange, i can't ever think of a time when i've had sooo much understeer. Just out or interest, have you tried another servo?? what servo are you running??
Yep, this sounds strange. Especially, that things like soften the front, dont help, etc.

To me it sounds either as a servo problem, or some binding in the steering. It can simply be a matter of loosen the screw in the top-deck, which goes down to the servo saver. Or maybe a too loose servo saver...
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:47 PM   #11324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW
Seems strange, i can't ever think of a time when i've had sooo much understeer. Just out or interest, have you tried another servo?? what servo are you running??
This is a good point. It could very easily be a bad servo. I remember hearing an interview with Spashett during a race and he was complaining about the same kind of thing. He changed the servo, problem fixed. I guess it could turn the wheels fine in the pits but at speed it couldn't hold them turned and it created a bad push.
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:09 PM   #11325
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Yeah it was David's problems at the Euros warm up that made me think about it.
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