Schumacher Corner
09-13-2005, 11:18 PM
Originally Posted by Iain
N4S - No, I have put plenty of new belts on, but not since I've replaced the diff pulley, so I am hoping when I get my delrin diff pulley and the new belts that my problem will be solved.
Jon - They are freying, not just a straight snap. I've just noticed that the pulley fence is loose on that side of the diff, maybe the edge of the pulley is rubbing on the belt??
Protc3 - That's what I'm thinking it might be also? I may have set the guides slightly crooked maybe and that with the loose fence is rubbing on the belt causing it too weaken??
To everyone - how does your belt look after a race meeting?? As mine looks worn, like a feathering only after a couple of runs? Which may point to it rubbing on something?
Thanks everyone for your ideas, as it really is frustrating, I'm really starting to get the car handling awesome. This is the only thing holding me back with it.
So once I've got my Schumacher order with my parts in it, I'll rebuild it, double checking the guides and fences and I'll let you all know how I go on the weekend.
Iain
Jon - They are freying, not just a straight snap. I've just noticed that the pulley fence is loose on that side of the diff, maybe the edge of the pulley is rubbing on the belt??
Protc3 - That's what I'm thinking it might be also? I may have set the guides slightly crooked maybe and that with the loose fence is rubbing on the belt causing it too weaken??
To everyone - how does your belt look after a race meeting?? As mine looks worn, like a feathering only after a couple of runs? Which may point to it rubbing on something?
Thanks everyone for your ideas, as it really is frustrating, I'm really starting to get the car handling awesome. This is the only thing holding me back with it.
So once I've got my Schumacher order with my parts in it, I'll rebuild it, double checking the guides and fences and I'll let you all know how I go on the weekend.
Iain
HIH
Paul
09-15-2005, 06:51 AM
TTT
09-15-2005, 10:58 AM
09-15-2005, 11:19 AM
Good job Jason. 
09-15-2005, 12:08 PM
Originally Posted by PW
Congrats to Jason Moberly!!!!!! http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/produ...&pagewidth=550
09-15-2005, 12:44 PM
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
I want to be as fast as Mo when I grow up
HE SURE DID HAVE SOME PONIES!!!!!
I'LL START PREPARING MY PRESS RELEASE FOR THE RIPON SUMMER CLASSIC.......LOLGOOD JOB MO!!!! GOT MY TIRE'S COMING. SO NOW I HAVE JUST ABOUT THE SAME AMOUNT OF FOAMS AS AARON
09-15-2005, 02:04 PM
Originally Posted by jayps
Oh ok. didn't spot those in the bag. what i found were just battery posts and spare body clips. Are they included in the first edition teemu chassis or just for the ones for 3700 batts? It seems I got the older version of the chassis.
Anyway, if I can bother you guys some more, would anyone know the part number for that or a pic of it? I'm already in touch with our schumie distributor here. I got a bunch of hop ups from them (the pretty purple ones)
and i can't wai to try out the car again.
Anyway, if I can bother you guys some more, would anyone know the part number for that or a pic of it? I'm already in touch with our schumie distributor here. I got a bunch of hop ups from them (the pretty purple ones)
and i can't wai to try out the car again.
09-15-2005, 06:37 PM
Way to go, MO. 
09-15-2005, 06:46 PM
Thanks guys!I basically used Paul's latest setup. You can see my complete setup at www.gearchart.com
09-15-2005, 07:03 PM
anyone strip screws in the alu bulkheads?
They're made of titanium and a bit oversized and easily
rounded, but I felt like the culprit was the threads
in the screws or bulkheads.Dremeling them
out seems like the easy solution but just to my luck
they're all countersunk and since they're
holding the two most expensive parts to replace
on the car I'd rather find some other method, any suggestions?
Also regarding the earlier post about rear belts snapping
I managed to snap one hitting the brakes to avoid
the curb while using a bl motor and the aluminum
pulley, it was the first time I pushed the car to the extreme.
Could it be that the open design is contributing
to this, also the cars little belt slip say compared to
the xxxs?
They're made of titanium and a bit oversized and easily
rounded, but I felt like the culprit was the threads
in the screws or bulkheads.Dremeling them
out seems like the easy solution but just to my luck
they're all countersunk and since they're
holding the two most expensive parts to replace
on the car I'd rather find some other method, any suggestions?
Also regarding the earlier post about rear belts snapping
I managed to snap one hitting the brakes to avoid
the curb while using a bl motor and the aluminum
pulley, it was the first time I pushed the car to the extreme.
Could it be that the open design is contributing
to this, also the cars little belt slip say compared to
the xxxs?
09-15-2005, 07:04 PM
Its dialed isn't it. 
I've gotten a step faster with it.
I've gotten a step faster with it.
09-15-2005, 11:36 PM
Tech Regular
Ian- if you have an aluminum 20 tooth, and it is nicked or damaged in the slightest it will cause the belts to frey and snap in just a few runs (i went through new belts in 10 runs or less). I didn't believe it at first (mine had one small nick- maybe .010 in dia), but I put on a virgin pulley, and havent had a problem since (months ago). You should get the RW delrin pulley, they are NICE!
spastik_m- Two things about the Ti screws. 1 you need a really good allen driver (no ball end or L-keys), and 2 the screws should have tread lock or be OILED. I know it sounds weird, but the aluminum needs to be protected from the titanium, as they will gall together if they are assembled without anything. You can try using a product called PB blaster (penetrating lube) applied with a needle oiler through the opening at the rear of the screw. Allow it to sit for a while, then try to TIGHTEN and then loosen the screw. You may have to tighten and loosen the screw in increments to get it out. Good luck-Jeff
spastik_m- Two things about the Ti screws. 1 you need a really good allen driver (no ball end or L-keys), and 2 the screws should have tread lock or be OILED. I know it sounds weird, but the aluminum needs to be protected from the titanium, as they will gall together if they are assembled without anything. You can try using a product called PB blaster (penetrating lube) applied with a needle oiler through the opening at the rear of the screw. Allow it to sit for a while, then try to TIGHTEN and then loosen the screw. You may have to tighten and loosen the screw in increments to get it out. Good luck-Jeff
09-16-2005, 07:10 AM
Originally Posted by cornerspeed
Way to go, MO.
09-16-2005, 01:01 PM
Tech Addict
i love this setup..my times are over 1/2 a second faster each lap. plus, (a big plus), its much easier to drive fast. the setup reminds me a bit of the way the old '99 sst felt when using that great only good for one run tire, the s-3's. anyone remember them days????...lol
mo's car was on rails at that race. it was interesting to see if anyone would finish on the same lap as he did.
mo's car was on rails at that race. it was interesting to see if anyone would finish on the same lap as he did.
09-16-2005, 03:57 PM
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Mo?