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Old 08-19-2005, 08:00 AM   #10696
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Actually, on carpet with rubber tires (Sorex 28R) I used 2 degree castor and .5-.7mm under the rear pivot block on the front. This gives a quite tricky car going into the corners but superb mid corner speed and exit. To compensate the slow entry lowering rollcentre (removing the plate and using 1mm spacer instead) is a decent solution.

Kickup,castor and anti-dive is a lot about driving style, so you really have to just try different setups and see what suits you.
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Old 08-19-2005, 03:10 PM   #10697
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Guys as you saw above I broke the plastic drivebone I need the steel ones is that sold separately or do I have to buy the whole set. Do you know the part #?

Rod
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Old 08-19-2005, 03:18 PM   #10698
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Part# U2151. I believe it's just the steel CV shaft, not the axle and coupler.
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Old 08-19-2005, 03:30 PM   #10699
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Hey Jon, found out 1 problem I had at Hitec other than radio problems, was that I bought some RP30's because I was told they were softer than the 36's and found out later that they are harder. The RP packages I've had didn't have the compound sheet included.
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Old 08-19-2005, 03:40 PM   #10700
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Oops.
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:53 PM   #10701
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Fes up John! You and Donny actually run your front bearings this way
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Old 08-20-2005, 12:44 AM   #10702
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is 450 aus worth for this mi2, brand New BMI chassis, Brand New Heavy duty front oneway, Alloy rear hubs, Ceramic bearings, stainless screws, delrin pulleys, steel front driveshafts, alloy spool and original diff, titanium turnbuckles and hingepins, and heaps of spares.

the cars is from a former team shumacher driver who was in australia
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Old 08-20-2005, 11:28 AM   #10703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar
Hey Jon, found out 1 problem I had at Hitec other than radio problems, was that I bought some RP30's because I was told they were softer than the 36's and found out later that they are harder. The RP packages I've had didn't have the compound sheet included.
RP 30's should be softer than 36's. RP 36's will be able to with stand higher temps than the 30's. I'm assuming that you have the premounts for both sets of tire's........ so the inserts are the same.
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Old 08-21-2005, 01:34 PM   #10704
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Adrian thanks for your help ,my car was alot better after the changes that you suggested, it sucks that it rained. Thanks again Adrian and also Paul you guys are always helpful.
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Old 08-21-2005, 02:43 PM   #10705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Part# U2151. I believe it's just the steel CV shaft, not the axle and coupler.
Are there any other shafts that will fit from another manufacturer?
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Old 08-21-2005, 03:09 PM   #10706
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Titanium Racing makes purple anodized drive shafts for several cars including the Mi2.

TiR Worlds edition CVD Mi2 - #TNM2564W
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Old 08-21-2005, 11:41 PM   #10707
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Default what would a Mi2 roller go for?

Hello to all-- thinking of buying a Mi2 from a local racer. What is a ballpark figure? The car is well maintained with some upgrades. How does the Mi2 handle compared to pre-fk 05 xray cars? I am hoping that a Mi2 will be more nuetral/solid in its handling characteristics.Thank you for any help/opinions.
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:30 AM   #10708
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my say would cost round 200-250 us. soon i think ill have my fully hoped up Mi2.
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:45 AM   #10709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Hello to all-- thinking of buying a Mi2 from a local racer. What is a ballpark figure? The car is well maintained with some upgrades. How does the Mi2 handle compared to pre-fk 05 xray cars? I am hoping that a Mi2 will be more nuetral/solid in its handling characteristics.Thank you for any help/opinions.
It all depends on your driving style and set up. There are set up's out there that have a ton of steering, set up's that push (slightly) and very nuetral set up's. The car is easy to work on and you can feel the difference in the car when you make changes. You will also get a ton of set up advice from numerous racers from this thread.
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:03 AM   #10710
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Thanks for the advice. I think I want the Mi2 because it is a little different, and I am trying to resist the "corally fever" which would put me way into debt. at this time (oh-so nice car). Also I am in central Fla. so I think parts support/help would be pretty good. I know that different set-ups will make for different handling- I have tried some variations with the t1 I currently have, which have led to improvements but the nature of the car to swap ends out of fast sweepers when the throttle is shut off is still there. I did not have this problem with the xxx-s rtr I started with, it stuck well. I am hoping the Mi2 has a good reputation of feeling solid. If I do pick the car up I hope some of you guys can let me in on some set-ups that will have it glued to the track!

any opinions on the BMI chassis? I see that if makes the car look alot more like the current fk 05 and rdx.
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