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Old 08-01-2005, 02:51 PM
  #10501  
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The eccentric bearing housings are likely to be used for belt tension, as with the front belt running over a smaller layshaft pulley - the original bearing tensioners would be useless.

What rear hubs is he using? They look like Kyosho TF4 hubs? Makes sense as the Kyosho hubs use the same size bearings (unlike the often used TC3 hubs).

Why is the right hand side steering post so short? Wouldnt this introduce some flex in the steering system?

He has also shaved the steering hubs to reduce bumpsteer and cut the riser plates so that the riser under the arm mounts can be adjusted independantly of the transmission height.
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Old 08-01-2005, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bender
The eccentric bearing housings are likely to be used for belt tension, as with the front belt running over a smaller layshaft pulley - the original bearing tensioners would be useless.

What rear hubs is he using? They look like Kyosho TF4 hubs? Makes sense as the Kyosho hubs use the same size bearings (unlike the often used TC3 hubs).

Why is the right hand side steering post so short? Wouldnt this introduce some flex in the steering system?

He has also shaved the steering hubs to reduce bumpsteer and cut the riser plates so that the riser under the arm mounts can be adjusted independantly of the transmission height.
If the short right steering post made the steering system worse, he wouldn't be using it .

I'm pretty sure those rear hubs are the Losi XXX-S rear hubs, but I could be wrong.

I believe the reason he split the right and left side of the rear riser plate because his chassis has the arm mount holes farther apart. The arm mounts can always be adjusted independently of transmission height.
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:24 PM
  #10503  
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Originally Posted by mini-dub
If the short right steering post made the steering system worse, he wouldn't be using it .

I'm pretty sure those rear hubs are the Losi XXX-S rear hubs, but I could be wrong.

I believe the reason he split the right and left side of the rear riser plate because his chassis has the arm mount holes farther apart. The arm mounts can always be adjusted independently of transmission height.
The rear hubs are from HPI PRO4 ,100%!
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Corner-hp73507.jpg  
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Old 08-01-2005, 05:12 PM
  #10504  
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WOW...Got some pretty good detectives in here
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mini-dub
I believe the reason he split the right and left side of the rear riser plate because his chassis has the arm mount holes farther apart. The arm mounts can always be adjusted independently of transmission height.
Yeah I didn't notice at first that the arms are mounted further out.

What I meant about adjusting the arm mounts is that with the teemu risers - there is just one plate that goes under both the bulkhead and the arm mounts.
If you wanted to lower the front arm mounts by 1mm - you'd have to take out the riser, which would also lower the bulkhead. The only way around it is to cut the riser so that the bulkhead part and the arm part become seperate sections.

None of Teemu's car looks too radical. If there aren't too many more changes perhaps they will offer a conversion kit.
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Old 08-01-2005, 11:47 PM
  #10506  
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Originally Posted by bender
None of Teemu's car looks too radical. If there aren't too many more changes perhaps they will offer a conversion kit.
Yeah, that would be good, here's hoping.

Does the Teemu chassis, have the arms mounting further out on the production version, or is it just on this chassis, maybe to bring it up to legal width because of the different hubs??

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Old 08-02-2005, 01:46 AM
  #10507  
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Originally Posted by P-DUB
WOW...Got some pretty good detectives in here

HAHA, i always keep my eyes open!!
He was driving @ Halifax BRCA with the pro4 rear hubs i think and TEEMU won ,Chris Ashton 3th and Kevin Brundsen 4th.(all schumi drivers)
They are ready to install on my car, bearings are same size.(10x5x4)Just need to drill a hole in four the pivot-pins of 3mm.(original hole from HPI is 2.5mm.)
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:15 AM
  #10508  
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hey guys, do you find the aluminum CVD bones better then the stock plastic ones?? as they are $79 AUD a pair
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 180sx
hey guys, do you find the aluminum CVD bones better then the stock plastic ones?? as they are $79 AUD a pair
You dont need really the CVD bones if you use just the normal diff butt if you crash allot then you need them.

When you use one-way or spool you need them.
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:36 AM
  #10510  
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i got the titanium CVD's i think also i should be getting my front one way soon hopefully
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:51 AM
  #10511  
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bah, i was gonna use a spool in whatever tourer i buy, but why are they so much compared to pro4 or tc4 alu CVD??????????
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:31 AM
  #10512  
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Originally Posted by 180sx
bah, i was gonna use a spool in whatever tourer i buy, but why are they so much compared to pro4 or tc4 alu CVD??????????
Because they aren't aluminium, they are titanium!!!
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:09 AM
  #10513  
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180sx....The spool is alloy, but it does come with the CNC diff pulley Spools from other manufactures don't include an upgraded pulley.

belgianchamp...They will bolt right on, but will not work due to the offset. The offset pushes the CVD further in which wont allow for any suspension movement...Don't bother with the hubs right now
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:20 AM
  #10514  
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Originally Posted by PW
180sx....The spool is alloy, but it does come with the CNC diff pulley Spools from other manufactures don't include an upgraded pulley.
He is talking about the titanium drive shafts, in Oz, they are $79/pair. But if you want to run a spool, you need them or the steel ones.

belgianchamp...They will bolt right on, but will not work due to the offset. The offset pushes the CVD further in which wont allow for any suspension movement...Don't bother with the hubs right now
So that would be why Teemu, had the arms mounted further out at the Euro's? Because the offset on the HPI hubs is different to stock?
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:06 AM
  #10515  
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Originally Posted by piorc
Hmmm!! and i need some hop up to my car to use those shocks??
And the shocks, do u have the part number??

Thanks a lot.

Marcelo

piorc the part number for the tamiya trf shocks that i use is TAM5357 ther the silver ones. bob
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