Schumacher Corner
#9529
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Hey Jon i didnt get it I think my comp email is messed up thats why i think it wont let me read it.
send it here
email: [email protected]
Im sorry if this been a headache for you . If its a pain just nvm it
send it here
email: [email protected]
Im sorry if this been a headache for you . If its a pain just nvm it
#9538
I would have posted this had i know that you guys was going to have so much trouble. I too had problems with the file but i eventually noticed that when the file is downloaded that it would not save with a file extension. Thus i simple gave the file a new name when downloaded it the last time and appended the ".zip" extension. Once i did that the file opened fine.
~M.I. Jedi
~M.I. Jedi
#9539
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
OK. Here's The setup Donny and I run on most outdoor asphalt tracks out here. Obviously we make some small adjustments here and there for conditions, layout etc... If there's anything that doesn't make since let me know and I'll explain.
FRONT:
Hub Carriers: Plastic
Sway Bar: 1.5mm
Castor: 4 degree
Kick up/Anti dive: 0mm
Toe in/out: 1 degree out
Ride Height: 5mm
Camber: -1 degree
Front Arm position: Middle
Front drive shaft: TiR Worlds Aluminum
Front Roll center: 1mm shims
Shock Tower: Carpet Front
Shocks: TRF
Upper Shock Location: Outside
Lower Shock Location: Outside
Shock Oil: AE 40wt.
Spring: X-Ray White 17.5 lbs
Piston: Tamiya 3 hole
Front Camber Link: Top Row, Middle
Ackerman: Middle hole on bell cranks
Droop: 2.5mm True Droop
REAR:
Hub Carriers: Aluminum
Sway Bar: 1.5mm
Anti/Pro Squat: 0mm flat (Go to 1mm anti squat to square up coming out, we use this a lot)
Rear Toe: 1.5 degree
Ride Height: 5mm
Camber: -1 degree
Rear Arm Position: Middle
Rear Drive Shaft: TiR Worlds Aluminum
Rear Roll Center: Stock 2mm Riser Plate
Shock Tower: Carpet Rear
Shocks: TRF
Upper Shock Location: 3rd. out.
Lower Shock Location: 3rd. out.
Shock Oil: AE 35wt. (We also use AE 40wt. in the rear a lot)
Spring: X-Ray Yellow 14lbs. (X-Ray Teal 15lbs. is used if you need a slightly stiffer rear spring)
Piston: Tamiya 3 hole
Tower Camber Link Location: Top Row- Middle
Hub Carrier Camber Link Location: Inside Hole- 1mm shim under ball stud.
Droop: 3mm True Droop
OTHER SETTINGS:
Body: Mazda 6
Front Diff: Spool
Chassis/Top Deck: Stock 2mm
ESC: Keyance Rapida
Cells: Fukuyama GP3300
Receiver: Spectrum
Servo Airtronics 94757
Cell Position: Middle, Inside
Motor: br00d 7x1 Ti Tear down
Brushes: CS Silver
Springs: Trinity Purple
Timing: 15
Pinion: 26
Spur: 128
Final: 8.86
Tires: Take Off CS27 (whatever tire is best on your track for the weather conditions.)
OK, what I mean by the Roll Center measurement is the spacing under the suspension mounts. 1mm in the front means take out the stock 2mm riser plate and replace it with 1mm shims. Anti squat is achieved by putting shims under only the front block of the rear suspension mount. And the droop is measured above ride height. Set the ride height first, then use the notch in the center of the carpet shock towers and lift the end of the car up just until the tires are barely touching your flat board, then measure the ride height again at the same point. If you're measuring the rear at 3mm of droop, your ride height should be 5mm at rest then lifted should be 8mm. Everything else should be pretty self explanatory. Like I said, this is pretty much where we start and just make small adjustments. Remember though, the whole setup needs to be followed. You can't just setup the shocks the way we have them and not the rest of the car and expect it to work right. We've spent months working this setup up and we're both really confidant in it now.
FRONT:
Hub Carriers: Plastic
Sway Bar: 1.5mm
Castor: 4 degree
Kick up/Anti dive: 0mm
Toe in/out: 1 degree out
Ride Height: 5mm
Camber: -1 degree
Front Arm position: Middle
Front drive shaft: TiR Worlds Aluminum
Front Roll center: 1mm shims
Shock Tower: Carpet Front
Shocks: TRF
Upper Shock Location: Outside
Lower Shock Location: Outside
Shock Oil: AE 40wt.
Spring: X-Ray White 17.5 lbs
Piston: Tamiya 3 hole
Front Camber Link: Top Row, Middle
Ackerman: Middle hole on bell cranks
Droop: 2.5mm True Droop
REAR:
Hub Carriers: Aluminum
Sway Bar: 1.5mm
Anti/Pro Squat: 0mm flat (Go to 1mm anti squat to square up coming out, we use this a lot)
Rear Toe: 1.5 degree
Ride Height: 5mm
Camber: -1 degree
Rear Arm Position: Middle
Rear Drive Shaft: TiR Worlds Aluminum
Rear Roll Center: Stock 2mm Riser Plate
Shock Tower: Carpet Rear
Shocks: TRF
Upper Shock Location: 3rd. out.
Lower Shock Location: 3rd. out.
Shock Oil: AE 35wt. (We also use AE 40wt. in the rear a lot)
Spring: X-Ray Yellow 14lbs. (X-Ray Teal 15lbs. is used if you need a slightly stiffer rear spring)
Piston: Tamiya 3 hole
Tower Camber Link Location: Top Row- Middle
Hub Carrier Camber Link Location: Inside Hole- 1mm shim under ball stud.
Droop: 3mm True Droop
OTHER SETTINGS:
Body: Mazda 6
Front Diff: Spool
Chassis/Top Deck: Stock 2mm
ESC: Keyance Rapida
Cells: Fukuyama GP3300
Receiver: Spectrum
Servo Airtronics 94757
Cell Position: Middle, Inside
Motor: br00d 7x1 Ti Tear down
Brushes: CS Silver
Springs: Trinity Purple
Timing: 15
Pinion: 26
Spur: 128
Final: 8.86
Tires: Take Off CS27 (whatever tire is best on your track for the weather conditions.)
OK, what I mean by the Roll Center measurement is the spacing under the suspension mounts. 1mm in the front means take out the stock 2mm riser plate and replace it with 1mm shims. Anti squat is achieved by putting shims under only the front block of the rear suspension mount. And the droop is measured above ride height. Set the ride height first, then use the notch in the center of the carpet shock towers and lift the end of the car up just until the tires are barely touching your flat board, then measure the ride height again at the same point. If you're measuring the rear at 3mm of droop, your ride height should be 5mm at rest then lifted should be 8mm. Everything else should be pretty self explanatory. Like I said, this is pretty much where we start and just make small adjustments. Remember though, the whole setup needs to be followed. You can't just setup the shocks the way we have them and not the rest of the car and expect it to work right. We've spent months working this setup up and we're both really confidant in it now.