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Old 04-25-2005, 08:29 PM   #9466
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Mike at superior just got one in for a guy in bermuda and said was something like 109 although i'm sure it was a little more than that and he was just talking out his ... So your looking at around $120 i'm sure. You can always call the guys at BMI and speak with someone directly.

http://bmiracing.com
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:33 PM   #9467
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Quote:
Can anyone lmk if there is a shock rebuild kit for our cars? Every since I bought this car the shocks leaked.
If your going to get a rebuild kit i recommend the iodized purple ones witht eh screw on bottoms. These have been the easiest to work with as far as schu parts. If you are having trouble rebuilding them on the other hand, adrian posted a howto for me not too long ago with a step by step on how he does his.. Since learning those steps ive been able to build the most consistant shocks as a result.

Let me know if you cant find the post.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:40 PM   #9468
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Building Schu Shocks:

1. I fill up my schu shocks all the way to the top of the body with oil.

2. Put a couple of drops of oil on top of the cartridge and pull the piston back into that oil puddle. This keeps air from getting trapped behind the piston.

3. Keep the piston pulled against the cartridge and out it into the shock body. Oil will be pushed out as you start to screw it in.

4. When the cartridge is in so that the seal o ring is 0.5mm from the body push the shock shaft all the way in. More oil will flow past the threads and out of the shock.

5. While keeping the piston pushed all the way in finish tightening the shock cartridge.

6. Check your shock rebound. They should all rebound ~5mm....if you are lucky...lol!

7. To equalize the shocks pick the one with the most rebound and side load the shock shaft and push it in all the way. You can use moderate force. You are trying to release tension from one side of the seal o-rings to allow a small drop of oil to burp past them. This reduces the internal oil volume and will reduce the rebound.

8. Burp all of you shock using this method until they all match the shock with the least rebound.

I do not like building shocks with lots of rebound. If one shock leaks a tiny bit of oil it will lose some rebound and you car will feel tweaked due to the mismatch. This is a real pain to spot on a race day. Like I said if you have ~5mm or less of rebound this will not be a problem.

Adrian Martinez
Sales Manager Schumacher USA
adrian@schumacherusa.net
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:20 PM   #9469
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U835 vari shock seal pack (does 2 shocks)
or
U1818 purple alloy shock seal housings (comes with the seals etc and does 2 shocks)
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:49 PM   #9470
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Quote:
Originally posted by LoSi xXx S
how much is that chassis?
The BMI Chassis kit goes for $110 and includes a lower and upper deck, both 2.5mm. The battery slots are pre-beveled so there's less prep work needed and the rest of the machine work is clean as can be. Just lightly sand the edges, clean the dust off, and run a bead of CA around the edge.
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:08 PM   #9471
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did you back off the set screw on the other side of the diff????No diff screw should strip if this step is taken.
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:16 PM   #9472
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Yea that little alen screw yea i forgot to take that off but i did and i rebuilded my diff and now is super smooth .
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Old 04-26-2005, 06:30 PM   #9473
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Ahhh. thats prolly how i keep stripping mines. I always thought it was a good idea to leave it where it is so you know just how tight the diff was. But then again i can never quite feel when i've reached the alen screw and end up stripping the darn thing.
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Old 04-27-2005, 07:45 AM   #9474
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Quote:
Originally posted by IslandBwoy
Ahhh. thats prolly how i keep stripping mines. I always thought it was a good idea to leave it where it is so you know just how tight the diff was. But then again i can never quite feel when i've reached the alen screw and end up stripping the darn thing.
its not a stopper its purpose is so when you have set your diff holding a wrench in the diff screw take another wrench and tighten the set screw so the diff dont back out. thus its called a set screw
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Old 04-27-2005, 09:13 AM   #9475
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http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...threadid=70528
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Old 04-28-2005, 01:41 PM   #9476
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Congrats to Paul Wynn on his victory! I wish I could have seen the finish. I definitely heard it though.

TIP FOR ALL RACERS:
Don't leave Stick 'em (spelling?) on your tires for more than 15 minutes before your race! I did that for the 19 turn A main and it took 4 laps for me to stop the car from spinning out.
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Old 04-28-2005, 02:29 PM   #9477
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Congrats to PW.
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Old 04-28-2005, 03:08 PM   #9478
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because you should put on STICKUM right before you race!

that stuff works though!
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Old 04-28-2005, 06:01 PM   #9479
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So what do you recommend Steve? Different potion? or to wipe the tires after using Stickum?
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Old 04-28-2005, 06:02 PM   #9480
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What did Paul use?
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