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Old 02-25-2005, 02:14 PM   #9031
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From memory i'm sure the Teemu chassis is 11mm narrower than std.
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Old 02-26-2005, 08:20 AM   #9032
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jon Kerr
Fran- Change of plans, Don V. and I both will be at Camarillo Sunday. It'll be my first trip to that track. What are they using for barriers?

Jon, glad to hear you and Don will make it. The barriers to make the lanes are a mix of screwed down PVC and wood (usually not screwed down, but connected together) The wood is a mixture of 2x4 and 4x4's When I first got the Mi2, I went thru a couple of caster blocks quickly, but the Pdub bumper has been the ticket. The good thing about the wood (if there is a +) is there are no head on's like at So Cal when someone jumps the road domes. I got a good inventory of parts to go around if needed. Look forward to seeing you boys..
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:34 AM   #9033
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Donny asked me yesterday if I was good on parts. He said this track was tough on cars but wasn't sure if they'd changed the barrier system since he was there last. I'll see you out there bright and early tomorrow
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Old 02-26-2005, 06:10 PM   #9034
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The unique problem with our facility, is it's in the parks district property with softball fields and soccer fields. They just built a BMX track and a hockey rink. We have no fences around our tracks, and the public uses them 24/7. We have to do with what we have available to us. We're looking into road domes and mabey it will be a reality soon. Just have to gather them up at the end of a race day, so the wont get ripped off. We're one of the oldest clubs in the country, and we're teetering on going to a fenced track and then we might loose the non-proffit status. Any and all improvements are done with club funds and volunteer work..As I said were on the verge of changing things to make it more racer friendly. The club vs a bussiness is a delicate balance
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Old 02-27-2005, 12:07 PM   #9035
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Default F/R & L/R Balance?

I apologize for asking this question again, but I am having some trouble figuring this out.

I have 4 scales that I want to use to balance my Mi2.

I have the standard chassis, the battery is middle in and I am using the standard schumacher shocks with XRay Springs and Schumacher spring spacers.

I know that my car needs some weight distribution and also to bring it up to ROAR spec.

How do I go about balancing the car?

What I mean is, do I set ride height and droop first? Do I set everything to a neutral postion first? Do I use setup wheels?

How close is close enough to call it balanced because seem to go to extremes with every adjustment?
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Old 02-27-2005, 01:42 PM   #9036
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Set your ride height first. Then set the droop by lifting one end of the car by the notch in the tower and measuring the ride height again with the suspension at full extension. Then use a droop gauge with the wheels off to make sure droop is equal on both sides. If you're using 4 scales to balance the car you have to make sure that the surface is perfectly flat and level, and make sure it's VERY rigid. You can't do this on a table that's on carpet. Any motion on the carpet, even shifting your weight in your chair can make the scales move. I have a Maxspeed Designs pit board that has leveling feet on it and put that on the kitchen counter when I scale the car. If you can get the car within about 5-10 grams left to right, you're really close. Last time I scaled the car I added 21 grams next to the servo and I was able to get the car very close.

RF=351g
LF=344g
RR=352.5g
LR=357.5g

That's 49.93% Left side and 50.07% Right side. Front to rear I'm about .5% heavy to the rear as well. So it's close. And you fine tune it with the preload on the shocks to get it as close as you can. What you have to remember is that every adjustment you make to one shock effects the opposite shock the same way, i.e. you add half a turn into the RF to make it heavier, that will make the opposite shock, the LR heavier as well. When you can't get it to balance using the preload is when you start adding weight to the corner you can't seem to get heavy enough without throwing all the other corners off. If this sounds confusing, once you get the car on the scales, you'll see what I mean.

I've got a good corner balance sheet on Excell. If you want, give me you Email Addy and I'll send it to you. Anyone else that wants it, PM me with your Email and I'll send it to you. It's a very good little tool.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 02-27-2005 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 02-27-2005, 01:55 PM   #9037
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You can see in this picture where I ended up adding weight to make the car balance better.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 06-07-2007 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 02-27-2005, 05:58 PM   #9038
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Hey everyone,

Names Jason and I just picked up a MI 2 lastweek. I bought it off a member here on rc tech. The car came to me in prestige condition, only problem was that he forgot the servo/antenna mount. So I used some highend duck tape from speedtech and made a temporary mount

I am not what you would call a hardcore racer. We have a small seen in town and race only about 2- 3 times in the winter, and every second weekend in the summer.

I am mainly a monster truck guy but have owned a few cars in the past and decited to pick up a few again. A couple of months ago I picked up a new xxx-s rtr 2 and converted to basically a G+ and then some. Now I have the MI 2 also and can't wait to get it ripping around. I installed a z590 servo, xr2i, and a novak brushless to make it zooom.

Hers some pics.







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Old 02-27-2005, 05:58 PM   #9039
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If there is anything anyone can lmk about the car that I should know please feel free to post. From what I have read I should be sanding the edges and then sealing them up with super glue?? does that soudn right?
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Last edited by Wicked; 02-27-2005 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 02-27-2005, 06:44 PM   #9040
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Any Carbon Fiber plate chassis should be sanded on the edges and sealed with CA glue. You do this for a couple reasons. One is to keep it from splintering from any impacts. Also, CF is highly conductive. If you allow the ends of your cells to touch raw, un-sealed graphite, it will short out your battery.
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Old 02-27-2005, 07:58 PM   #9041
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Wicked....The Mi2 looks great, but one thing I noticed is you may need a taller servo arm so that the steering link is level


Leadfoot....I see this scale topic brought up from time to time, but I just don't like it. To properly distribute the "weight" evenly on scales, you must rule out all the suspension (shocks, springs, etc) and only then will the scales help in weight distribution! Once the weight is balanced, then you will tweak the car by spring tension only. There is a BIG difference between weight and tweak.

I personally set my car up netrual (spring, droop, etc) and then suspend the car from a center point front & rear (shock towers have a center notch). This will allow you to see which corner is heavier by weight only and rule out any suspension (weak spring, bad shock, etc).....Hope this helps
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Last edited by PW; 02-28-2005 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 02-27-2005, 08:16 PM   #9042
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What up P-dub? Missed ya at the birds most of the time...I was on the "other schedule"!!! I think me and the wife might try to come down for some State races this year.

Later

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Old 02-27-2005, 08:23 PM   #9043
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Sup EA!!! Yeah, that schedule is brutal for all

That would be awesome to see ya at some of the State Races
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Old 02-27-2005, 09:22 PM   #9044
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Jon Kerr

You have PM. Thank you for the explaination.


PW

I noticed the notches in the towers. And someone else a long while back talked about threading a rod between the two towers and then suspending the car. I have not been able to find wire that will not bend or sag at that distance. What do you recommend using to check the balance?

Also, when checking droop, I use fishing line and thread it through the notch and pick up the car that way instead of using my fingers to pick up one end or another. This method seems easier and lets me better check droop. The notch has been pretty usefull and is great feature.

Any suggestions you give me on the above would be very appreciated
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Old 02-27-2005, 09:35 PM   #9045
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Default Front/Rear Ride Height/Droop

Can some tell me the best locations for checking ride height and droop on the Mi2?

I have trouble with ride height in the front because it seems that that the lower bumper support gets in the way. When I setup the night before the race I take the front bumper off and measure from the leading edge.

When checking droop, after setting my ride height, I use a piece of fishing line to lift the front or rear just until I can slide a piece of paper under each tire. At this point I need to check ride height again to check the differential from ride height. What is the best location at the front and read to measure the ride hieght when looking at droop?

Also, my brother has made this tool that lifts the entire car off the tweak board. It lifts the car in tiny increments until the wheels just leave the board. Would this be a good way to measure tweak or do you need the effect of the lifting one end and having the other end push down a little?
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