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Old 01-14-2005, 10:07 PM   #8641
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Damn Adrian, what is it 1 AM out there?
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Old 01-14-2005, 10:11 PM   #8642
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This is just my opinion. As long as the drivetrain isn't binding and is nice and smooth, I don't think making it spin like some of those shaft drive's you see that guys get to spin forever will really do much good. As long as there's nothing dragging and binding, I'd say you're fine.
]

You may have saved me some work there. I didnt fancy removing my shields because it could cause the amounto time i need to do maintaining the car to go up but i've seen some drive trains like the hpi and i beleive what was troy's car and an grew green with envy. If this is the consensus not to over do it then i'm fine. What do the rest of you think?

And is anyone going to SpaceCoast?????? :-(
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Old 01-14-2005, 10:11 PM   #8643
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jon Kerr
Damn Adrian, what is it 1 AM out there?
yeah its 1am He probably got a turn on the computer!
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Old 01-14-2005, 11:37 PM   #8644
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Now, its 2:30...lol! I just finished building an R/C airplane for a friend of mine from my R/C plane club. Promised I would have it for him on Sat
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Old 01-15-2005, 07:24 AM   #8645
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Default Setup Question (AdrianM)

I noticed on Adrian's setup sheets he has an entry that says "Trinity Purple bent to 180 degrees". What does this mean? Are you wrapping the sring around the pole one more time or ????

Another thing: I know you guys said that you stoped removing the spacer place to put in shims for anti dive and kickup. but then you said you might add anti dive in your next setu adrian. How are you planning on doing that?

AND: alloy rear hub 0 degrees block. Ball stud in inner holes. What part number are you refering to as the alloy rear hub and how does moving that ball stud around affect the car? I was told before that moving the stud to the OUTER holes make the care a little more predictable. Is this correct? What is the reason for movign 'em in?

R.

Last edited by IslandBwoy; 01-15-2005 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:11 AM   #8646
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which is better in stock????..48 or 64 pitch
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Old 01-15-2005, 12:05 PM   #8647
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is there a sight where i can send in my set up and get opinion?
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Old 01-15-2005, 12:35 PM   #8648
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Default miya shocks mounting

I was looking at others car to see how i have to mount the tamiya shocks on the Mi2.

I saw teemu was using an purple mount on the shock towers but Paul Wynn was using an other way to mount them.

Wich way is the best and can u give me some part numbers of what i have to get so i can mount them properly.


i hope someone can help me with this.


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Old 01-15-2005, 03:33 PM   #8649
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The best way to do it is to ream out the top of the Tam shocks to fit the stock top Schu ball, Ti Schu Shock mount or TiR Alloy Shock mount.
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Old 01-16-2005, 08:17 AM   #8650
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Everyone's got their own method. I know some that have used Adrian's method, some that have used the Associated top plastic ball (perfect fit) and some that have used the Tamiya parts.

Personally i have used Tamiya hardware with what they call a "ball nut" i think for the top mounting, then spacers between this and the shock mount.

I think you should be able to see it on this pic.
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:50 AM   #8651
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Good looking car Matt, but it looks like you could use a P-Dub bumper.....LOL

I also use the tamiya hardware to mount the shocks
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:59 AM   #8652
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with the stock chassis, I have a problem when I load the car in the turns. It rubs the chassis under the batteries on the edge. Its a realy sharp turn and the traction is up. I had this problem and thought that it was that the camber links to low but when I moved them up and used stronger shocks. It still happened. I try to load the out side of my car in the turns, so that I can spring out of the turn! I know this is hard on the drive train but its realy a great way to move inside of the other driver, that is just driving around the track like its sunday and Its alot of fun to drive hard into the turns like that!

other then changing my driving what can I do to not rub the chassis? I fill that the car has to hard of springs and the car is twitshy! but with aggresive driving its okay! just down the straight its little hard unless there is know one around me. could toe out for this.

roll bars yellow stock
front castor 4 degree
toe 0
ride hight 6.0
camber 1.0
front wishbone forward
front shocks 2 hole
camber on hub bottom
camber on towor top inside
oil 40
spring gold front red rear
3 hole
a arm inside front #3 outside rear
short steering rode
anti/pro sguat 0
rear toe 1.5
ride height 6.5
rear camber 1.0
rear wish med.
all shocks 62.0
rear shock towor 3 hole
camber med top and low hub
hubs are raised
plastic drives
batts are med med
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:12 AM   #8653
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Quote:
Originally posted by PW
Good looking car Matt, but it looks like you could use a P-Dub bumper.....LOL

I also use the tamiya hardware to mount the shocks
I saw that P-Dub bumper last weekend, it ROCKS ....you gonna make one for the jrxs? or xxx-s?
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:45 AM   #8654
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Default tamiya shocks

Pw do you know the part numbers of the tamiya mounting?
So i can order those i don't know exactly wich i have to take.


thanks


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Old 01-16-2005, 11:31 AM   #8655
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Harshguy....Yes, the JRXS bumper will be done in a couple of weeks.

Arjen....I used the hardware that came with the shocks.

Rcshark....A shorter link will reduce roll and up-stops on the shock shafts might help. On foams we normally have the stops hit at the same time the chassis hits the surface.
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