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Old 11-09-2004, 10:35 PM   #8056
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Hey can anyone tell by this pic who made this chassis? Its 3mm also has a 2.5mm top deck that goes with it.
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:50 PM   #8057
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Matt/mb racer: thanks for the tips. it's true, the car does feel good as it is with the std. towers but i guess you can never be to dialed ... hehehe i do notice though that most of the set-up sheets i see by the pros, including PW's 19T set-up at reedy used the lowered towers.
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:51 PM   #8058
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Default Re: Front UJ's

Quote:
Originally posted by dw
Recently got a mi2.

First run out - 2 laps and the drive shaft snapped. There was a big air bubble inside it.

Replaced the dog bones with steel ones and have noticed that the wheels vibrate really badly once the steering lock gets above about 50%.

This is much worse than your usual UJ chatter.

Any suggestions?

Should I have replaced the axles as well as the dog bones?

If so what's the part number?

Thanks

DW
I saw in someones picture that they had re drilled holes to adjust the ackerman on the steering knuckle, do people think this will remove the chatter, and also possibly get rid of the mod corner push?
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Old 11-10-2004, 12:08 PM   #8059
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Most of the setup sheets use low towers because they also use Tamiya shocks, which are shorter than the Schumacher ones.
Other than that, I think the low towers also have the upper mount positions more inwards/laid down, but I really don't want to dig in my pile of things to check this at the moment...
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:19 PM   #8060
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Default Thanks a lot

Hi all,

I'd like to say thanks again mo for the setup info you gave me last week. I cross referenced a few of your setups and got my car handling surprisingly well for the races sunday at superior.

After driving the MI2 I'm even more disappointed in the performance of my original mission so i have a couple questions about that if you guys dont mind reliving your mission days.

1st: question/comment: the ball screw that holds the front and rear hubs have to be the worst system i've ever seen. I'm not the worst driver but i think i takes very little to pull that screw out of place and once that happens the plastic hub is usually pretty useless there after. ARE THERE ANY MODS TO GET RID OF THIS PROBLEM. I would imagine this is is a comon problem considering how many times i've replaced these parts. How did you guys deal with it?

2nd: I'm not exactly sure HOW i'm doing this but last week i broke TWO axles in the front. Once i got side swiped and the other time i'm not sure what the hell happened. This is more a general question but did you guys ever havce a problem with the front axle/cvd joints?

Thanks for all your help.
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:24 PM   #8061
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Default Tamiya shocks

I forgot this in my last post: I have had the hardware for my tamiya shocks on back order for bout a month now and what i'm being told is that the hardware is not being manufactured anymore and they are not planning on making a replacement! WTF? is this tru? The part that i'm speaking of comes from the trf design. Is there any other way i can get these shocks to mount on my mission?
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:45 PM   #8062
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Islandboy...

Are you running a spool or 1 way in the front, if so, get yourself the Ti or MIP CVD, it really is needed. If your running a diff, you can also ensure that you do not have too much steering throw dialled into your radio. As far as the ball issue, make sure you are not screwing them down and touching the Axles inside the hub. This can cause alot of grief(including axel breakage. I used the ti balls in my Mission, and they generally never pulled through, and bent a whole lot less.

I used the hardware that came with the shocks, plus the Ti standoffs available from Schumacher. That should work. Not sure on the length, but I think it is 66mm
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:55 PM   #8063
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Yeah its the standoffs that i'm having a problem getting. Do you know of anywhere that have 'em in stock. My local hobby store dont :-(.

Thanks for the advice on the axle.
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:56 PM   #8064
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And i WAS running a oneway but the track is too small so i'm going to put the back in.
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:57 PM   #8065
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One of your local shops should be able to get them, if not call Shuie USA
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:57 PM   #8066
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Taking a guess your running at TQ ?
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Old 11-10-2004, 03:35 PM   #8067
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There has been a number of request for rubber tire/carpet setups. We have not raced on carpet yet this year (in the USA), but I have posted Teemu's carpet/rubber tire setup at www.gearchart.com
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Old 11-10-2004, 04:45 PM   #8068
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Yeah. I'm running at TQ, and while the one way gives the car more power than 99% of the cars in my class those front hubs dont seem to do well so i think i should get some breaks for the small, tight, narrow track at TQ.
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Old 11-10-2004, 05:06 PM   #8069
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Default Instruction manyal

Does anyone know where i can get the instruction manual for the original mission in pdf or word format? I've been asking those guys in tampa to fix the links for months now but they dont seem to have time for that.
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Old 11-10-2004, 05:17 PM   #8070
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IslandBwoy:

If you go to the link below you can click and get the JPEG for each page and then paste them into Microsoft Word.

I have asked about the broken links myself and have not heard a response.

If AdrianM or PW are reading, a single PDF would be great!

http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/searc...e1=prodvalue14
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