Schumacher Corner
08-15-2004, 06:07 PM
#6856
"Schumacher Mi2 is now a 2 Time National Champion in 2004"
Furman Walker and his 1 week old Schumacher Mi2 has given Schumacher it's 2nd National Title in less than a month. Furman dominated the 19 turn class in fine fashion winning by a large margin....Congratulations to Furman Walker!!!!
Further details will be found very soon at www.schumacherusa.net
Furman Walker and his 1 week old Schumacher Mi2 has given Schumacher it's 2nd National Title in less than a month. Furman dominated the 19 turn class in fine fashion winning by a large margin....Congratulations to Furman Walker!!!!
Further details will be found very soon at www.schumacherusa.net
Last edited by PW; 08-15-2004 at 07:16 PM.
08-15-2004, 06:37 PM
#6857
Congratulations Furman!!
08-15-2004, 08:36 PM
#6861
Furman was definitely a man on a mission this weekend. Somehow I think the paint job makes that machine go faster...
Here is a picture of THE man and HIS ride from this weekend...
Here is a picture of THE man and HIS ride from this weekend...
08-16-2004, 02:34 AM
#6863
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by King-G
Ratter, these mods arent really necessary, Tim Hillyear and Sean Rendell finished 1, 2 at the Vic titles at Boronia with std Mi2's.
I would start out with either of their setups, Sean used a Locked front diff, whilst Tim used a oneway. Perhaps speak to Tim on wednesday nights to get his entire setup and work from there..
At this point I wouldnt recommend doing the raised transmission mod, the benefits are negligible, and far greater gains will be found getting the car dialled in on track.
Raising the Transmission REQUIRES the Low towers, as you are altering the roll centres by raising the towers (Lowers the Roll centre) and Raises the Centre of Gravity)..not such a good thing.
You dont raise the motor mount, as this would raise the Centre of Gravity even further. For stock and 540 you can get away without raising the layshaft mounts, as it will slightly loosed the rear belt, and shoulnt be a problem in those classes with belt skip. (you do of course have to place the shims ontop of the mounts, between the topdeck)
Im afraid there are too many implications to explain right here..come to TFTR on a race day and seek me out, i'll explain it all further..
At this point dont bother with the raised transmission mod, Not worth it untill you get the Car dialled in for your driving style and track, once your consistency is down into the .20 - .30 region, then it may be worth while to experiment with, but right now you will see greater gains in speed, by focusing on your motors, batteries, driving consistency, and car tuning.
You can however raise the rear hinge pin mounts to see greater gains in cornerspeed...(raising the rear roll centre) . Raising the rear mounts, in .5mm increments will free the rear of the car in the corner (oversteer)...as you say you like. Raise them a small amount at a time, until the rear begins to feel a little loose, for best cornerspeed in 540 / stock. Just make sure you dont make the car difficult to drive in the process, its a fine balance, and a slippery slope once you go into oversteer, probably hurting your consistency if you go too far.
I most team drivers have found around 1 - 1.5mm spacers works well under the rear arms hingepin mounts, with 0 - 0.5 shims under the front arms mounts...basically raise the rear mounts untill the rear gets loose, but dont go over 2mm. keeping the front close to standard..This is not including the 2mm riser plates so you add the shims ontop of the riser plates by these suggested amounts.
The standard ballcups are very good, and regarded by many as being some of the best, unless damaged shouldnt be the cause of your steering slop. Check your steering bellcranks are assembled correctly, and the screw posts are tightened down just about till they cause the steering action to tighted up, this will reduce slop.
I really need to see your car, its a little hard to diagnose over the Net, and properly answer your questions.
Ratter, these mods arent really necessary, Tim Hillyear and Sean Rendell finished 1, 2 at the Vic titles at Boronia with std Mi2's.
I would start out with either of their setups, Sean used a Locked front diff, whilst Tim used a oneway. Perhaps speak to Tim on wednesday nights to get his entire setup and work from there..
At this point I wouldnt recommend doing the raised transmission mod, the benefits are negligible, and far greater gains will be found getting the car dialled in on track.
Raising the Transmission REQUIRES the Low towers, as you are altering the roll centres by raising the towers (Lowers the Roll centre) and Raises the Centre of Gravity)..not such a good thing.
You dont raise the motor mount, as this would raise the Centre of Gravity even further. For stock and 540 you can get away without raising the layshaft mounts, as it will slightly loosed the rear belt, and shoulnt be a problem in those classes with belt skip. (you do of course have to place the shims ontop of the mounts, between the topdeck)
Im afraid there are too many implications to explain right here..come to TFTR on a race day and seek me out, i'll explain it all further..
At this point dont bother with the raised transmission mod, Not worth it untill you get the Car dialled in for your driving style and track, once your consistency is down into the .20 - .30 region, then it may be worth while to experiment with, but right now you will see greater gains in speed, by focusing on your motors, batteries, driving consistency, and car tuning.
You can however raise the rear hinge pin mounts to see greater gains in cornerspeed...(raising the rear roll centre) . Raising the rear mounts, in .5mm increments will free the rear of the car in the corner (oversteer)...as you say you like. Raise them a small amount at a time, until the rear begins to feel a little loose, for best cornerspeed in 540 / stock. Just make sure you dont make the car difficult to drive in the process, its a fine balance, and a slippery slope once you go into oversteer, probably hurting your consistency if you go too far.
I most team drivers have found around 1 - 1.5mm spacers works well under the rear arms hingepin mounts, with 0 - 0.5 shims under the front arms mounts...basically raise the rear mounts untill the rear gets loose, but dont go over 2mm. keeping the front close to standard..This is not including the 2mm riser plates so you add the shims ontop of the riser plates by these suggested amounts.
The standard ballcups are very good, and regarded by many as being some of the best, unless damaged shouldnt be the cause of your steering slop. Check your steering bellcranks are assembled correctly, and the screw posts are tightened down just about till they cause the steering action to tighted up, this will reduce slop.
I really need to see your car, its a little hard to diagnose over the Net, and properly answer your questions.
Thanks for taking the time to answer the questions
When you talk about raising the hingepins, are you talking about useing thicker spacers than the one supplied in the kit or am I on the wrong track? If thats the case hoe about just using 2 of the spacers or is that too much of a jump.
08-16-2004, 06:55 AM
#6864
Tech Regular
AdrianM...I think I found out why Larry Pryor thought my car was handling a little strange, As I was working on it this weekend I found that one of the steering yokes was broken at the lower kingpin. Strange thing was it was still in place, and I don't know how many races I ran with it like that. When I took it apart to install the steel drive axles it fell apart in my hand...will have to keep an eye on those yokes to make sure they are intact..
Anyway, thought I would let you know. I've got the car set up with the setup you sent and am looking forward to racing it again...
Thanks...Mark Gardner
Anyway, thought I would let you know. I've got the car set up with the setup you sent and am looking forward to racing it again...
Thanks...Mark Gardner
08-16-2004, 06:59 AM
#6865
Tech Regular
AdrianM...forgot to ask..on the setup with the lowered roll center up front...I struggled with how to make a brace for the front to protect the chassis after removing the lower doubler. I finally ended up cutting the legs off the front doubler, installing the hinge pin mounts with 1mm shims, and using longer screws through the front hingepin mounts so I could mount the cross brace on top of the hinge pin mount. Is this the way you guys did this??
Mark
Mark
08-16-2004, 07:11 AM
#6866
Tech Regular
AdrianM...nevermind...just read back a couple of pages to catch up and found you had described it...got it covered...
Mark
Mark
08-16-2004, 01:37 PM
#6867
Congratulation Furman! again.
also thank you for the help with set up. whiched helped me finish 2nd in touring mod A Main!
I also Like to say thankyou PW and adrian along with troy for all the help aswell Thankyou schumacher!
also thank you for the help with set up. whiched helped me finish 2nd in touring mod A Main!
I also Like to say thankyou PW and adrian along with troy for all the help aswell Thankyou schumacher!
08-16-2004, 02:25 PM
#6868
Tech Regular
Paul/Adrian...you guys OK?? Just snapped to the fact that you guys had a bit of a storm (hurricane Charley) blow over your heads this past weekend...everyone all right??
08-16-2004, 03:01 PM
#6869
We actually got less rain on Friday than a normal Florida summer day in Tampa/Clearwater. Some of our friends in central Florida had a scary night though
The main problem we have had to deal with is the IFMAR worlds track took a direct hit from Charley and a couple of tornados spawned by the storm. After much work today we heard that the track itself is in tip top condition. The driver stand will be repaired tomorrow.
The main problem we have had to deal with is the IFMAR worlds track took a direct hit from Charley and a couple of tornados spawned by the storm. After much work today we heard that the track itself is in tip top condition. The driver stand will be repaired tomorrow.