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Old 08-13-2004, 06:30 PM   #6841
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Ok MO, you knew some one was gonna ask!
What's the black thing around the motor wire?
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Old 08-13-2004, 07:40 PM   #6842
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That's a ferrite magnet. Just like the clamp on ones some of the R/C compaines try to sell you for $8 except it doesn't have the plastic casing and doesn't clamp. Oh, and it only cost about $1 at a local electronics store. I also have one on the negative battery wire which you can't see. There supposed to reduce radio noise and my home track is kinda brutal sometimes, especially when we run 19 turn so anything that might help is a plus.
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Old 08-13-2004, 08:12 PM   #6843
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Switch from 75mhz to 27mhz and your glitching will dissapear!
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Old 08-13-2004, 08:55 PM   #6844
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I had a glitching problem with my asphalt MI2.. but my carpet one never glitches with the same electronics I tried the usual fix's with out any luck. I finally mounted the reciever and antenna to the top deck and the problem went away
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Old 08-13-2004, 10:06 PM   #6845
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Old Man
Switch from 75mhz to 27mhz and your glitching will dissapear!
Yeah, then I can spend more time waiting for frequencies than driving. In mod, the car pretty much never glitches. There is just 1 spot on the track where everyone has glitching problem once in a while.
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Old 08-13-2004, 10:38 PM   #6846
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Mo races at Speedworld. There is a spot... I remember it from the 2001 On Road Nats... I think its on the back straight near the 2nd light pole. I remember cars wanting to turn left there...
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Old 08-13-2004, 11:18 PM   #6847
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Yup. Speedworld stock class glitch! 19turn and stocks are more prone to it there. Although I have not had any problems recently.
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Old 08-14-2004, 04:41 AM   #6848
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hey do u guys know if the outer pin thje the plastic driveshafts can be removed (the one that goes into the blade) because i want to try and put it onto my hpi shafts on the front of my mi2
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:08 AM   #6849
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
Yeah, then I can spend more time waiting for frequencies than driving. In mod, the car pretty much never glitches. There is just 1 spot on the track where everyone has glitching problem once in a while.
That's exactly what used to happen to me a a local off road track. I swithched to 27mhz KO propo and use there 1/2 channels. I never wait for a frequency!

And the channels are ROAR legal!
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Old 08-14-2004, 12:49 PM   #6850
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Quote:
Originally posted by mo
I picked up one of the new Airtronics synthesized receivers and will be trying it out tomorrow, along with the new Keyence Rapida speedo. Here is a pic of the electronics layout on my car.
Hi Mo,

Noticed on your picture that you have a screw missing from the top deck through to the motor mount. Have you done this for tweek reasons, if not I'll turn a blind eye

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Old 08-14-2004, 03:19 PM   #6851
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Yeah, I run without that screw and I shave down the motor plate a little so it doesn't touch the top deck. This give the chassis more equal flex from side to side.
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Old 08-14-2004, 05:56 PM   #6852
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The new Airtronics receiver was a waste of money. Mo got one and I bought one and they are both back in the box to be shipped to Airtronics first thing Monday morning. Glitch city no matter what precautions were taken. The Novak one does the same thing so I think that we aren't up to par on the crystal less receivers just yet.
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:50 PM   #6853
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I noticed a bit of wobble in my Mi2 steering, the right wheel actually. The left one is connected to the servo saver and the spring provides adequate tension, but the right side has a bit of slop. This is kinda frustrating because it's not an even wobble. I was thinking of taking it apart and adding some O-rings on the balls. Is that the best way to get rid of the problem? What size O-ring should I use? Is there in easy way to get those ball cups off cause they were not exactly soft and easy to get them on.
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Old 08-15-2004, 05:06 AM   #6854
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I have an Mi2 which I will race when I get it faster and handling better than my mission, but have a couple of questions

The Mi2 uses a one way and I have the grey belts on it, I have flushed all bearings and use trinity oil in them, I will be getting it to the minimum weight for my class, I'm basically trying to get it as light and effecient as possible

I run in 540 pro which uses a silver can motor as standard and normally use take off 22's or 27's

The track is asphalt, tight and medium grip, but cold this time of year.


I like the car go go where it is pointed, no understeer.

I've heard about raising the transmissions 2mm to get more effiency from the straighter drive shafts.
How will this affect the roll centres?
What are you guys using to space them?
Do you space the engine and layshaft mounts?

The carpet top plates are lower, is this correct?
Do they offer any advantage or just a body clearance advantage?
What are the parts numbers?
Are they different front to rear?

I use a futaba s9550 servo, but the steering arm hits the servo rather than passing over it, is any one else having this problem, I realise I may not need this much steering on the track, but I like to have things set up properly.

Is there a better ball cup than the standard ones for the steering? There seems to be a fair bit of freeplay with them.
I have seen the purple RPM ones being used and some claim they have less freeplay in them.

Thanks in advance for any answers

MIck
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Old 08-15-2004, 05:11 PM   #6855
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Ratter, these mods arent really necessary, Tim Hillyear and Sean Rendell finished 1, 2 at the Vic titles at Boronia with std Mi2's.

I would start out with either of their setups, Sean used a Locked front diff, whilst Tim used a oneway. Perhaps speak to Tim on wednesday nights to get his entire setup and work from there..

At this point I wouldnt recommend doing the raised transmission mod, the benefits are negligible, and far greater gains will be found getting the car dialled in on track.

Raising the Transmission REQUIRES the Low towers, as you are altering the roll centres by raising the towers (Lowers the Roll centre) and Raises the Centre of Gravity)..not such a good thing.
You dont raise the motor mount, as this would raise the Centre of Gravity even further. For stock and 540 you can get away without raising the layshaft mounts, as it will slightly loosed the rear belt, and shoulnt be a problem in those classes with belt skip. (you do of course have to place the shims ontop of the mounts, between the topdeck)

Im afraid there are too many implications to explain right here..come to TFTR on a race day and seek me out, i'll explain it all further..

At this point dont bother with the raised transmission mod, Not worth it untill you get the Car dialled in for your driving style and track, once your consistency is down into the .20 - .30 region, then it may be worth while to experiment with, but right now you will see greater gains in speed, by focusing on your motors, batteries, driving consistency, and car tuning.


You can however raise the rear hinge pin mounts to see greater gains in cornerspeed...(raising the rear roll centre) . Raising the rear mounts, in .5mm increments will free the rear of the car in the corner (oversteer)...as you say you like. Raise them a small amount at a time, until the rear begins to feel a little loose, for best cornerspeed in 540 / stock. Just make sure you dont make the car difficult to drive in the process, its a fine balance, and a slippery slope once you go into oversteer, probably hurting your consistency if you go too far.

I most team drivers have found around 1 - 1.5mm spacers works well under the rear arms hingepin mounts, with 0 - 0.5 shims under the front arms mounts...basically raise the rear mounts untill the rear gets loose, but dont go over 2mm. keeping the front close to standard..This is not including the 2mm riser plates so you add the shims ontop of the riser plates by these suggested amounts.

The standard ballcups are very good, and regarded by many as being some of the best, unless damaged shouldnt be the cause of your steering slop. Check your steering bellcranks are assembled correctly, and the screw posts are tightened down just about till they cause the steering action to tighted up, this will reduce slop.

I really need to see your car, its a little hard to diagnose over the Net, and properly answer your questions.
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