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Old 07-24-2004, 05:35 AM   #6601
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how much could i get for that Mi1??
its about 12 runs old, and harldy any marks on underneath
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Old 07-24-2004, 05:46 AM   #6602
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only ebay will tell
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Old 07-24-2004, 09:48 AM   #6603
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Nismos do you remember anything I told you about. Dont give up. take everything off your car and re doit. put the reciever up on its side away from the speedo At leat 1 inch roam. also did you put the caps on the motor like I asked.

Before you condem the car try using back up electronics , different motor.

Giving up isnt the answer! Trust me I am the king of glitching! PW and adrian will tell you!. But I always figure it out.
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Old 07-24-2004, 11:42 AM   #6604
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If you pic the car up and pull full throttle does it glitch?
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:16 PM   #6605
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Nismos34, try looking at that the plugs that go into each channel on your receiver, espically the white one as this is your signal. Sometimes the little tab that holes the pin in the connector can break and when you plug (servo for example) in it can push the pin out slightly. causing wired effects. Give them a wiggle to see if it starts glitching.

HTH
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Old 07-24-2004, 05:21 PM   #6606
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Quote:
If you pic the car up and pull full throttle does it glitch?
no!, it used to

i have tried different motors, RX Servo, everything..

it just wont stop..
i have all the caps, i have DONE EVERYTHING you ppl have said..

i was told by one person i had to have a FM radio set?????
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Old 07-24-2004, 07:16 PM   #6607
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I had a glitch issue with my Mission 1 that was solved by putting some electrical tape around the edge of the batteries. So there was no part of the cell touching the battery tray
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Old 07-25-2004, 03:14 PM   #6608
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Hey P-Dub, I'm heading out to the Hitec race and I am planning on running the Mi2. Have you ever run that event? Any setup reccomendations? I heard the track is like an Amoeba, where it changes all the time as people hit the boards. The car is box stock, and I don't think I have enough time to order any parts if I'd need anything. I do have a set of TRF shock I am going to toss on it too. Also, what is the spur gear range that you can put on the car with the aluminum hub? Thanks in advance, and again, way to go in Portland. Did you get those pics btw, your schui e-mail kicked them back but the other addy didn't
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Old 07-25-2004, 04:50 PM   #6609
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NismosR34: I had the same issue with my Axis 2 which I am running until I can purchase/build my Mi2.

I did the following:

1) Black electical tape under the ESC and receiver as well as using a foam core double sided tape you can find at Walmart -- its double sided with 1/4" foam between the two sticky sides.

2) Black electrical tape around the battery slots which I had modified to for 3300mAh batteries.

3) Around the antenna anyplace it can touch the chassis I use a small red sippy straw that is flexible to isolate the antenna from the chassis

I did the same for a Tamiya 414 my brother is using and that solved my issue.

I can absolutely understand how it can drive you nuts but this sport in general requires patience.

I know you may have already tried this and I truely am not trying to be a pest, but have you layed out your electronics on a cardboard box outside and then walked like 100ft from everything with the radio and see if it gliches? I had to do this once for a FireBlade I was running until I could find which piece of electronics was causing me trouble. Lastly, did you try placing everything in another car? I keep a Tamiya TL-03 based car as my test car for electronic gremlins.

Again, I am just trying to help -- I don't believe pitching the car will help.
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Old 07-25-2004, 07:18 PM   #6610
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thanks

still going to sell it though, lack of space to run(front road)

when i was testing it yesty, i snapped a lower arm, and bent the pivot rod...
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Old 07-26-2004, 05:13 AM   #6611
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Just got a Mi2, and tried it for the first time last weekend, i love it! great setup right out of the box, much better than my xray that i have been racing with for the last 2 years!
I see that many people are running the low shock towers on the car, whats the difference between the low ones and the std ones? are they made to accept the tamiya shocks or do they have some other performance gain? I`m running with the std shuie shocks.
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Old 07-26-2004, 05:37 AM   #6612
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Hey Guys...raced the new MI2 for the first time Sat night; qualified 2 and finished 2 in the A..unfortunately I race with Toastie, so to beat him you really got to be on your game...

AdrainM/PW...new car runs great...setup from AdrainM worked like a champ. And yes, I ran it EXACTLY as you said..

Later guys...
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Old 07-26-2004, 07:08 AM   #6613
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hatebreed....The purpose of the lower towers is to allow for a lower mounted body for carpet racing with foam tires. We have found that the car works great with these towers on all surfaces so we run them all the time. The stock shocks have to be shorten 4mm to use the lower towers (2mm off ball-cup/2mm off shock shaft). The lower towers also make it easy to put tamiya shocks on the car
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:16 AM   #6614
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Pw that brings up my question which model or part # tamiya shock are you guys using because I have been searching the jap and hong kong sites and there are sh!t load of shocks! Thanks for the help the checks in the mails
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:27 AM   #6615
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The Flouride Coated Surikarn Shocks.
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