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Old 07-04-2004, 09:06 AM   #6421
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OK...stupid question time...what's a Pdub chassis? How does it differ from the stock one?? I've just finished building my new MI2 and hope to run it next weekend for some practice. I'm going to give the spool a try to see how she runs...

Thanks.

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The P-dub chassis is a thicker (3mm) after market chassis offered for the car. It doesn't have the option of positioning the batteries like the stock chassis. I got to run this chassis at the reedy race and I loved it. It's a cool upgrade. I feel it will be killer on carpet with foams due to it's thickness. Good luck with the new car and go have some fun.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:42 AM   #6422
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The P-dub chassis is awsome.I run mine on asphalt with the stock upper deck.With the p-dub upper deck it will be awsome for carpet.

The stock chassis works well too,just like the option to run a stiffer chassis.
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:46 PM   #6423
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I am just wondering if I possibly have a problem with my Schumacher Mission S1, as I am getting some strange handling problems..

Initially, I bought the car in as-new condition but second hand and built by the previous owner. It had some minor problems when it was built, like the owner had rushed the build or something. I have fixed up these problems now anyway.

Now the handling of the car is all over the place, mainly it is very very taily and has massive snap oversteer.

I thought it was the surface I was racing on, but it was driveable at the start of the day, but by the end, it would spin out as I turned into any fast corners, slide was uncontrollable and sudden. Surface was a concrete tennis court, i was running yellow springs on the front and rear, no swaybars, with 24mm CS27's all round. Front was running std ball diff, no spool or one way. Diffs were a little crunchy..

The tires i was running were pretty well stuffed, so I endulged in a new set of CS22's, rebuilt the front and rear diffs, and headed back out to the track. This track is a faster track, with an older surface that usually provides plenty of grip for the other guys.

This was also very taily and spinning easier, with the same yellow springs front and rear. Remember, I had NEW CS22's front and rear.

Meet was rained out, so headed home.

Next day, swapped the front springs for harder Red springs, appeared to help the problem somewhat, but it would still suddenly spin, especially turning around a left hand turn. If i stayed into the power, it would spin into a donut, pivoting on the front left wheel asif that wheel was locked from turning. It would do this with the body shell on or off.

All the time i did not change the shock pistons or oil, i am not sure what either of these are setup with (oil weight, or piston holes).

Motor is a Peak Hellfire rebuildable 27t stock, nicd 1700's and gp 3300's (mmm, punchy). Problem was also occuring with previous motor, a tamiya super stock (23turn).

Weight balance could be the cause, it is probly mile out, but I dont see how that could cause it to be as far out as it is.

I will rebuild the shocks also, make sure they are configured all identically.
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:08 PM   #6424
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move you shocks on the shock tower...
i had hardly any steering, and was told to move the fronts shocks to the outer hole..which caused a heap of oversteer...i have moved to the 4th hole out...and it turns fine now..
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:16 PM   #6425
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Cool, that makes sense. They are as upright as possible front and rear now (ie in the outer holes).

As an aside, would starting from the center hole be the best place to start or from the inner hole when tuning the car on race day?
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Old 07-04-2004, 09:21 PM   #6426
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Also play with the weight distribution. I.E. Moving the front arms all the way Forward and the rears all the way forward. a good start with the shock's is 40wt. 3hole piston and blue shuie springs. I used to run 6 deg castor and 2 in on the shocks front and rear.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:01 PM   #6427
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The car seems awefully stiff. Like RC Old man says, try a lighter spring, BTW, the reds are lighter then the Yellow,

I think from the top of my head...

Black = 6lbs
Grey = 10lbs
Blue = 15lbs
Red = 20lbs
Yellow = 25lbs ?


The best setups I ever drove with the old car were with blues or reds depending... Start with the blues all around, and go from there.

Also check your droop, my car liked little droop in the rear < off power
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:05 PM   #6428
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Its possible the springs i have are not schumacher ones, the yellows were the softest springs I have, and some fluro green ones are rock hard. The reds were noticibly more firm than the yellow springs, both by squeezing them between fingers and in the car...
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:33 PM   #6429
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i got yellow ones, and they seem pretty hard, and i got some grey looking ones...

im using the grey ones all round,
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Old 07-05-2004, 01:31 AM   #6430
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oooo bugger


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Old 07-05-2004, 01:50 AM   #6431
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Ooops, bad luck dude.

Metro Hobbies in Melbourne have Schumacher parts in stock, I have bought from them in the past and been very impressed with thier service
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Old 07-05-2004, 03:54 AM   #6432
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yeah
getting some bits i need of a mate...so i should have it running soon...
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Old 07-05-2004, 07:35 PM   #6433
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Votex,
if you are running the Mission, check the lower pivot ball for the culprit of your freaked handling. I have had them freak my day upside down. This is how I checked mine. use a 2.5mm driver, spin the lower ball and watch the hub, if it dances, its bent. CHances are they are bent... Schumacher has ti ones, and hardened ones call Paul @ Schumacher, he can help.
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:43 AM   #6434
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Here's my new body painted by Lynn Munno...
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Old 07-06-2004, 11:28 AM   #6435
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Here's my new body painted by Lynn Munno...
nice!
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