Schumacher Corner
#6391
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
Hey gang, just wanted to let you know what we are taking an additional 20% off on our Schumacher Mission parts. Your invoice will be adjusted accordingly. This only applies to the Mission pieces, not the Mission 2 parts. Sorry no back orders.
Kraig
KT Hobbies
Kraig
KT Hobbies
#6392
Driveshafts
Can someone please tell me where I can get the titanium or steel driveshafts from?
#6393
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by PW
ratter.....Outer hole?
If you are talking about the outer hole for the camber-link on the hub then it will give less turn-in, but more stabilty. The inner hole will give more turn-in and cause the car to have more chassis roll.
For some reason we "always" ran the outer hole. The lap-times were always better with the outer hole
ratter.....Outer hole?
If you are talking about the outer hole for the camber-link on the hub then it will give less turn-in, but more stabilty. The inner hole will give more turn-in and cause the car to have more chassis roll.
For some reason we "always" ran the outer hole. The lap-times were always better with the outer hole
So if I change to the outer hole, I will loose turn in? the manual said it would give more aggressive initial steering response, which I thought meant it would turn in better.
Thanks
Mick
#6394
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Ratter - The outer upper hub carrier hole is pretty much always better on the Mission and previous cars. Everyone ran it there 100% of the time. Every time we tried the inner hole we went back to the outer hole.
Woozer - Any shop that has Schumacher parts can get the drive shafts in either material (U2151 Steel CVD, TR2564T Ti CVD).
stulec52 - Go step by step...
1. Verify you radio is at the stock settings or erase/reset that model in your radio's memory
100% Dual Rate L and R
100% Steering End Points L and R
0% Exponential L and R
2. Set your servo arm to be perfectly vertical
3. Connect the servo arm to the steering bell crank and adjust its link until that arm that the steering tie rod connects to is parallel to the center of the chassis.
4. Adjust the link going to the other bell crank until it is parallel to the chassis center line and the other bell crank (this is different than described in the instructions but its better).
5. Connect the tie rods from the steering bell cranks to the steering spindles and adjust them until the car has 0deg toe or .5deg toe out.
6. Turn the wheel on the radio and reduce you end points until the servo stops buzzing at full lock. The left and right should be within 5% of each other.
If you followed these instructions and you still have a problem it might be with your radio.
Woozer - Any shop that has Schumacher parts can get the drive shafts in either material (U2151 Steel CVD, TR2564T Ti CVD).
stulec52 - Go step by step...
1. Verify you radio is at the stock settings or erase/reset that model in your radio's memory
100% Dual Rate L and R
100% Steering End Points L and R
0% Exponential L and R
2. Set your servo arm to be perfectly vertical
3. Connect the servo arm to the steering bell crank and adjust its link until that arm that the steering tie rod connects to is parallel to the center of the chassis.
4. Adjust the link going to the other bell crank until it is parallel to the chassis center line and the other bell crank (this is different than described in the instructions but its better).
5. Connect the tie rods from the steering bell cranks to the steering spindles and adjust them until the car has 0deg toe or .5deg toe out.
6. Turn the wheel on the radio and reduce you end points until the servo stops buzzing at full lock. The left and right should be within 5% of each other.
If you followed these instructions and you still have a problem it might be with your radio.
#6395
It could be a bad servo too. You might want to try a different servo and see if it clears up.
#6396
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
switched the servo out into another car, works perfect.
Tried what Adrian suggested and while it is better it still seems like I need much less throw to the left. it strains the servo if I leave them both at 100%.
I guess trial and error with linkages is probably the answer, but the thing that looks off to me is that the servo saver itself doe not have a 90 degree angle between input arm from servo and output arm to hubs.
getting a bit frustrating.. maybe I'll go back to my TC3 for a bit
Tried what Adrian suggested and while it is better it still seems like I need much less throw to the left. it strains the servo if I leave them both at 100%.
I guess trial and error with linkages is probably the answer, but the thing that looks off to me is that the servo saver itself doe not have a 90 degree angle between input arm from servo and output arm to hubs.
getting a bit frustrating.. maybe I'll go back to my TC3 for a bit
#6397
stule52....Sorry to hear you are having so many problems with your steering. If you feel you may have a defective part, please give Schumacher a call and we will get you a new part asap.
Are you using the stock servo arm and how tight is the servo-saver nut?
As for the steering end points being off left to right affecting handling, it won't. I understand it shouldn't be off more than 5%, but as long as the wheels turn the same left to right the same amount (bell-cranks being parallel) the car should and will steer the same. If not, something else is affecting the tweak of the car.
Please give us a call.
Are you using the stock servo arm and how tight is the servo-saver nut?
As for the steering end points being off left to right affecting handling, it won't. I understand it shouldn't be off more than 5%, but as long as the wheels turn the same left to right the same amount (bell-cranks being parallel) the car should and will steer the same. If not, something else is affecting the tweak of the car.
Please give us a call.
#6398
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
Paul thanks for that,
but to correct you slightly:
If my car has steering which reaches full travel to the left quicker than it gets to full travel on the right it does effect handling.
also it gives you less intermediate steering positions on 1 side compared to the other.
but to correct you slightly:
If my car has steering which reaches full travel to the left quicker than it gets to full travel on the right it does effect handling.
also it gives you less intermediate steering positions on 1 side compared to the other.
#6399
I'm not following....Why would the steering be faster one direction than another if the end points are set for the steering to be equal. The only thing that can change the speed is the "radio" or your bellcranks are not parallel (pointed straight forward)
Check your center track-rod, make it around 41.2mm from end to end.
I will check mine tomorrow when I get into the office
Check your center track-rod, make it around 41.2mm from end to end.
I will check mine tomorrow when I get into the office
#6400
Tech Apprentice
Ok I went out last night and purchased a 2nd hand Mi2 it has a one way in the front and has TRF shocks on it.
I'm going to pull it down and clean it up and learn the new car before i race it, I'll keep running my other mission for now.
I'm interested in anyones set up that run on asphalt and rubber especially any of the aussies that have run at boronia.
I run in 540 pro which has to use a 540 silver can motor.
I also like my steering to be very responsive compared to a lot of guys.
Thanks in advance
Mick
[email protected]
[email protected]
I'm going to pull it down and clean it up and learn the new car before i race it, I'll keep running my other mission for now.
I'm interested in anyones set up that run on asphalt and rubber especially any of the aussies that have run at boronia.
I run in 540 pro which has to use a 540 silver can motor.
I also like my steering to be very responsive compared to a lot of guys.
Thanks in advance
Mick
[email protected]
[email protected]
#6401
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by ratter
Ok I went out last night and purchased a 2nd hand Mi2 it has a one way in the front and has TRF shocks on it.
I'm going to pull it down and clean it up and learn the new car before i race it, I'll keep running my other mission for now.
I'm interested in anyones set up that run on asphalt and rubber especially any of the aussies that have run at boronia.
I run in 540 pro which has to use a 540 silver can motor.
I also like my steering to be very responsive compared to a lot of guys.
Thanks in advance
Mick
[email protected]
[email protected]
Ok I went out last night and purchased a 2nd hand Mi2 it has a one way in the front and has TRF shocks on it.
I'm going to pull it down and clean it up and learn the new car before i race it, I'll keep running my other mission for now.
I'm interested in anyones set up that run on asphalt and rubber especially any of the aussies that have run at boronia.
I run in 540 pro which has to use a 540 silver can motor.
I also like my steering to be very responsive compared to a lot of guys.
Thanks in advance
Mick
[email protected]
[email protected]
#6402
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
You can look through the setups on www.gearchart.com or you can go directly to my 1way setup, http://www.gearchart.com/setup/setup...ock%201way.pdf . If you like a lot of steering, you should like it.
#6403
hey stulec52 make shure your front hubs havent got to much resistance with the yokes just take off the camber link form the servo to the saver and see if the steering moves freely if it doest you can remove the links for one side to see which side it is unless its both
#6404
Tech Elite
iTrader: (56)
one-way
Originally posted by mo
You can look through the setups on www.gearchart.com or you can go directly to my 1way setup, http://www.gearchart.com/setup/setup...ock%201way.pdf . If you like a lot of steering, you should like it.
You can look through the setups on www.gearchart.com or you can go directly to my 1way setup, http://www.gearchart.com/setup/setup...ock%201way.pdf . If you like a lot of steering, you should like it.