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Old 06-23-2004, 09:22 PM   #6376
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Leadfoot...the Millenium should work, but you have to be careful not to overcharge teh pack. You'll need to set the voltage threshold as low as it will go, and keep a fan on the pack. Monitor it as it gets close to the end of the charge cycle and stop it if it gets too hot...

I'm with STLNLST...use the Turbo30..should work better.

Axis with foams should be fun. You may have trouble breaking upper camber links if you hit something. The large foam tires seem to put a lot of stress on those things. You'll probably have too much traction to start...

Good luck...

Mark
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Old 06-24-2004, 12:55 AM   #6377
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HI Guys,

just want to post a quick note that we now stock Schumacher Mi2 spare and hop-up parts. All parts are updated and listed online also, Titanium screw kits are also available for the Mi2.

Steve Wang
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:19 PM   #6378
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Thanks for the update Steve and keep up the great work!!! You gotta have one of the best online shops
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:45 PM   #6379
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STLNLST: Thanks -- I am going to sell the Novak and keep the Turbo 30

markg: I practiced with the Axis 2 today. It was fun but with only old 2400s, I was getting my butt kicked. No big deal, was fun to play again. I started with 19T until I can get the hang of this again and so I could keep off the boards.

I am going to race with the 19T tomorrow night just to race.


In the spare parts bin for $2 I found this alloy gear adaptor

Part # U2252Y. Can I use that part on the Mi2 that I ordered?

Thanks again for all the replies
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Old 06-24-2004, 08:54 PM   #6380
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AdrianM or others...I know you told me on the phone how to do the locked front diff, but would you mind going over it one more time. I believe the keys are...disassemble, take out the diff balls and clean out the grease. CA thick paper to the diff rings, put the diff rings back in paper side to the pulley and reassemble tightening as per the manual directions...Is that correct?

Any particular type of paper I should use on the diff rings? Would business card stock work?

Anything else...

Thanks..Mark
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Old 06-25-2004, 03:07 AM   #6381
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Default Mission 1 question

Just a quick question re my mission 1

What affect will it give my steering by using the outer holes on the hubs and why?
I realise I have change the length of the arms etc, just want to know whether it gives more grip or less, faster turn in due to responding faster etc etc


Thanks
Mick
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Old 06-25-2004, 07:08 AM   #6382
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hi
i just got my mission 1 a few days ago....
i dont really know to much about setup and stuff...
atm i running schumacher 40 oil in shocks, with yellow springs, 5mm ride height, sway bars, a 86t spur, 20t pulley, 32t pinion, and a tamiya sport tuned motor,
i have a futaba 330 esc, a hitec RX, and servo, a Futaba TX,
atm i only got one battery, a sanyo 1700mah stick pack, i have a Proline Alfa body, and Take off 27's tyres on dish rims..

whats a good spur/pinion/pulley combo for running the 16t kyosho mega motor i have???

thanks
Dan
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Old 06-25-2004, 04:30 PM   #6383
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Tony, Here is a pic of your car from Superior.
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File Type: jpg tonyp.jpg (65.3 KB, 290 views)
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Old 06-26-2004, 08:24 AM   #6384
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OK...another build question. I am following the directions for getting the chassis flat, but I can't get it right. I loosen the chassis screws into alum top and bottom and lay the chassis upside down on the shock towers and they are all touching. As I start to tighten the chassis bottom screws the chassis twists so that there is about 1mm twist (back right and front left are elevated). No matter what I do I can't get the chassis screws tightened to keep all of the shock towers even. Has anyone else run into this, and if so what should I look for or do to get the twist out....

It seems to happen when I tighten the diff housing screws...

Is this slight amount of twist acceptable?

Appreciate any help.

Mark
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Old 06-26-2004, 11:53 AM   #6385
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Mark, for a guess i would say that one or both of the shock towers isn't quite square to where it needs to be.

Personally i take it a stage further than described in the manual. I do the test mentioned, but i do it without the towers on the car. This means that you are using the tips of the bulkheads as the 4 corners. If you get all 4 of these flat then you know the chassis is spot on. I then mount one tower (loosley) and tighten the tower with the car upside down supported on the 2 tips of that tower, and the 2 tips of the bulkhead at the oposite end. This ensures you have that tower square to the chassis. You then do the same with the other tower to get it square to the first one.

I know this is a little long winded, and i don't do it all the time, only maybe when preping for a national. That said it was the best method that i could come up with to ensure that all is good if you have any boubts.
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Old 06-26-2004, 09:49 PM   #6386
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I built my car about 3 months ago now and I am still having terrible trouble with the steering.
Let me try to explain to see if anyone can help....

I have adjustable rates for throw of each side of my steering on my radio ( KO Esprit) I have to set up left hand lock at 45% and right hand lock at 90% to get it to steer the same amount each way.

obviously this is a huge difference and greatly effects side to side balance as it turns left far quicker than it turns right.

What the heck I am doing wrong????
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:01 AM   #6387
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stulec52 did you start by centering you servo first, befor attaching the servo horn? You will have to put in a battery pack and turn on the car without the servo horn on. That will center thr servo.(make sure the radio trim setting is centered first) Do that then attach the horn so it looks like it will steer stright then make adjustments to the servo horn linkage so the car tracks stright after that make any minor adjustments with your radio. If that dosent clear up your problem then look for binding in the stearing linkages.
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Old 06-27-2004, 10:17 AM   #6388
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yep,
tried that. It seems like the amount of travle required from the servo to achieve full lock is much less when going left compared to going left.
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:16 AM   #6389
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Default Re: Mission 1 question

Quote:
Originally posted by ratter
Just a quick question re my mission 1

What affect will it give my steering by using the outer holes on the hubs and why?
I realise I have change the length of the arms etc, just want to know whether it gives more grip or less, faster turn in due to responding faster etc etc


Thanks
Mick

any help would be great thanks
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Old 06-28-2004, 06:39 AM   #6390
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ratter.....Outer hole?

If you are talking about the outer hole for the camber-link on the hub then it will give less turn-in, but more stabilty. The inner hole will give more turn-in and cause the car to have more chassis roll.

For some reason we "always" ran the outer hole. The lap-times were always better with the outer hole
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