Schumacher Corner
#3916
thanks man i will check into that thanks alot
thanks!
trcshark and away!!!
thanks!
trcshark and away!!!
#3917
Hey pucho.....Yes, the RW pulleys work with both diffs.
#3918
PW and other ? do you need to take out the snap rig out to take the trust ering out? Im having a hard time getting it out and that's the only thind I can think of. Thanks again!
#3919
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
My mission does not have a belt tensioner on it. I put the grey belt on and have run it a few weekends in stock that way. This week I put hte RW pullies on it and now I am interested in knowing if I can still run the car without he tensioner. Would mod be to much for it?
Let me know soon..saturday is raceday...lol
Jeff
Let me know soon..saturday is raceday...lol
Jeff
#3920
Tech Champion
iTrader: (79)
Belt Tension
Jeff,
I have from day one used the RW pulleys, aluminum layshaft gears, and grey frt belt, with the blk rear belt. I have run stock and mod with it without any type of skipping. I run with no tensioner, but there is a roller that you can get fro Schumacher that attaches to the motor mount. If you dont already have the alloy motor and layshaft mounts, I would strongly recommend them. Otherwise the tension will be fine for all motors in my experience.
Good luck tommorrow,
I have from day one used the RW pulleys, aluminum layshaft gears, and grey frt belt, with the blk rear belt. I have run stock and mod with it without any type of skipping. I run with no tensioner, but there is a roller that you can get fro Schumacher that attaches to the motor mount. If you dont already have the alloy motor and layshaft mounts, I would strongly recommend them. Otherwise the tension will be fine for all motors in my experience.
Good luck tommorrow,
#3921
pucho....Yes, you will have to remove the snap ring to remove the thrust bearing.
Jeff I would run the tensioner for at least mod.
Jeff I would run the tensioner for at least mod.
#3922
What is the differece between the new and old parts?
#3923
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
i currently run the grey belts front and rear, the rw pulleys, the aluminum layshaft mount and diff housings, and NO tensioner. this is of course for stock. i found the car is extremely free and so far hasnt shown one sign of skipping... this is not what i would recomend for mod though. Hey PW just thought I would say hello. I am overhauling my mission and will be doing some bashing with Fred soon. cant wait to try this car outside on rubber tires if its half as good as everyone says imma be in heaven!!!!!!! hopefully i'll have something for these TC3's. around here we have some seriously fast guys who run for AE and im tired of getting my head handed to me next stop.... R&D for the nats
#3925
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
http://www.geocities.com/pottbellyrc
http://www.sixfoottiger.com/
the first site is a local carpet track.
the second one is a local group of racers that has links to all of our local tracks.
http://www.sixfoottiger.com/
the first site is a local carpet track.
the second one is a local group of racers that has links to all of our local tracks.
#3927
Tech Regular
PW or others..
I have the raised front roll center using the alum rear hinge pin mounts, cut steering mounts, and spacer under the front hinge pin mount. Can I go back to the stock by taking the spacer out of the front and flipping the alum rear, or do I have to buy new steering mounts for the rear hinge pin hold down??
Also, will the new alum fusion bulkheads work with the Mission? Is there a reason for going to these?? I hear they are wider and will shorten the upper camber link when running the inline hole on the hub...
Rain sux...no racing today...
I have the raised front roll center using the alum rear hinge pin mounts, cut steering mounts, and spacer under the front hinge pin mount. Can I go back to the stock by taking the spacer out of the front and flipping the alum rear, or do I have to buy new steering mounts for the rear hinge pin hold down??
Also, will the new alum fusion bulkheads work with the Mission? Is there a reason for going to these?? I hear they are wider and will shorten the upper camber link when running the inline hole on the hub...
Rain sux...no racing today...
#3928
Tech Master
Mark, Yes you can flip the alloy mount to go back to near std r/c. I haven't ever tred it personally but there shouldn't be any problem. The alloy fusion bulkhead will fit the mission i believe, not sure of the pin position on this bulkhead. I have run the std fusion ones and yes you run the in-line hub position with the short link.
#3929
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Still working on a solid setup on my mission. What would a racer be looking for in terms of handling when they would put on the fusion bulkhead and what parts other than the bulkhead itself would you need?
Still looking for a more aggressive turn in setup. THe car was much better last night but on a really tight track the car did not want to rotate fast enough.
Set up:
Pistons: 56 losi pistons with 40 wt. oil (F/R)
Springs: Red/Red did put blue on front and liked it
Front Shock Location: 3rd Hole tower Outside Hole Arm
Rear Shock Location: 4th Hole Tower Outside on arm
No Sway Bars
Rear Hubs all the way back
6 deg caster
Jeff
Still looking for a more aggressive turn in setup. THe car was much better last night but on a really tight track the car did not want to rotate fast enough.
Set up:
Pistons: 56 losi pistons with 40 wt. oil (F/R)
Springs: Red/Red did put blue on front and liked it
Front Shock Location: 3rd Hole tower Outside Hole Arm
Rear Shock Location: 4th Hole Tower Outside on arm
No Sway Bars
Rear Hubs all the way back
6 deg caster
Jeff
#3930
Jeff, If you are looking for more aggressive turn in, I'd recommend you stay with the STd front roll centre, Bulkheads in the lower holes, you can try a fusion bulkhead in the front only, running inline position on the front hub.
Minimum castor, hole 1 on steering hubs,
stand up shocks hole 3-4, with blue or red springs for outdoors, generally no swaybars with standups. start with around 3o weight 1 hole, also around 40 weight 2 hole is working well for us at the moment. just make sure the car has a good amount of dampening for its spring / wheel rate, it shouldnt feel overly heavy or light.
Try medium rear wheelbase, if not enough even try short, but it would probably only be suited for indoors, the car pivots really hard!
I generally start with around 4mm droop at both ends of the car for asphalt outdoors, and adjust the droop in .5mm increments...really noticable changes!
Minimum castor, hole 1 on steering hubs,
stand up shocks hole 3-4, with blue or red springs for outdoors, generally no swaybars with standups. start with around 3o weight 1 hole, also around 40 weight 2 hole is working well for us at the moment. just make sure the car has a good amount of dampening for its spring / wheel rate, it shouldnt feel overly heavy or light.
Try medium rear wheelbase, if not enough even try short, but it would probably only be suited for indoors, the car pivots really hard!
I generally start with around 4mm droop at both ends of the car for asphalt outdoors, and adjust the droop in .5mm increments...really noticable changes!