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Old 12-02-2002, 12:26 PM   #3421
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UJ's: The standard U.J.'s on the Mission, are they strong? Or can I count to get the steel ones quite soon (if I buy a Mission)? I'm running stock class only and I do hit the boards from time to time.

One-way pulley: On Schumachers web-site, I've found this: U2570C R.W. One Way Pulley - Mission 8.50. Is this really a traditionally one-way pulley? If so, how does it work? If inserted in the 17/20 tooth pulleys place, the car cant brake.....

Black versus grey: Whats the difference in the grey and the black belts? The kit comes with the black modified ones, in which way will they act with a stock motor?
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Old 12-02-2002, 01:00 PM   #3422
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Cole..

The standard drive axles are plastic, but they hold up pretty well. I used them for a long time before upgrading to the steel ones, and they are pretty strong. They will break, but not easily. If you are planning to get the kit, use them...If you are using the plastic ones, I would suggest buying a pair as replacement parts and keeping them on hand...

Other parts to keep on hand, front upper wishbones, hubs and arms...pretty standard parts for most cars to keep on hand. You might also buy some pivot balls (screw into the bottom of the hubs)..they tend to bend if you hit the boards too much.

The RW Diff pulley is just the pulley, its not a one way...its a replacement pulley for the oneway. The Mission one way unit replaces the front diff, not the center pulley. It is a complete assembly, including one way bearings, outdrives and pulley.

The black stock belts are stronger than the grey, but will work fine for stock once they break in. I run stock and 19 t, and use the grey front belt and black rear. With kit pulleys, the black belts will be a little tight at first, but will loosen up with a little running, and should last a long time...

Hope this helps...
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Old 12-02-2002, 03:27 PM   #3423
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Are they going to be releasing the diffs and one ways now with RW's? or just stay with the stock pullys?
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Old 12-02-2002, 08:17 PM   #3424
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Mark, You are way too soft (IMHO). I personally don't run sway bars unless I have to, and then usually only in the front. I DO run red springs most of the time. Unless youre running on a very slippery track, I think your oil is too light, too as this controls how fast the weight transfers to the outside. Hope that helps...
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Old 12-02-2002, 08:53 PM   #3425
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Racer X- Long time no see. When are you racing again?
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Old 12-03-2002, 12:39 AM   #3426
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Quote:
Originally posted by markg
Other parts to keep on hand, front upper wishbones, hubs and arms...pretty standard parts for most cars to keep on hand. You might also buy some pivot balls (screw into the bottom of the hubs)..they tend to bend if you hit the boards too much.

The black stock belts are stronger than the grey, but will work fine for stock once they break in. I run stock and 19 t, and use the grey front belt and black rear. With kit pulleys, the black belts will be a little tight at first, but will loosen up with a little running, and should last a long time...
Thanks MarkG

The black belts, will they benefit of spending one night in WD40, befor use? My current HPI belts liked that bath !

Your comment about having spare wishbones, that give me a feeling of that the car is fragile... On the other hand, our borads aint wooden and at our club, there's HPI, Yokomo, Schumacher... No one carries spare hubs etc. Personally, I've only broke one front bumper - it happened after over a year....

About upper links I've noticed, that there are 4 different camber links positions both front and rear. But as far as I can see, if one use long links up front, it will alter the steering function, since the vertical turning angel is also altered. Correct?
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Old 12-03-2002, 06:09 AM   #3427
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Great job on the "A" main finish in stock Alex......



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Old 12-03-2002, 07:12 AM   #3428
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Great job Alex!
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Old 12-03-2002, 07:19 AM   #3429
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Anyone using the Fusion bulkheads ?
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Old 12-03-2002, 10:51 AM   #3430
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RBLove or LarryPryor,

Do you guys have Alex's setup that he ran this past weekend?
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Old 12-03-2002, 12:28 PM   #3431
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RacerX...I was beginning to get that impression. I tried the softer setup, but may go back to a little stiffer shock, say 60 wt oil with red springs. The track is big and open asphalt, with what I consider to be medium traction. I dont need quick transition so stiffer setup may be the ticket. The sway bars have been working pretty well with the soft setup, but with a stiffer setup may not be necessary...do you have a medium traction asphalt setup somewhere that I could look at?

Cole..this car isnt very fragile. With some setups the upper wishbones are extended way out and can crack, but its not a big problem. I've heard some say to soak the belts in WD40, but I never have. They loosen up nicely after a few runs. Since the hubs are plastic the bottom hole, where the pivot ball inserts will loosen over time, but they arent prone to break. From what I've seen this is one of the least fragile cars on the market...

I'm not aware of a change in steering geometry as a result of upper camber link poisition...using the "in-line" (outer) position on the hub gives more camber rise, or basicly increases camber as the suspension is active, which gives more corner traction.
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Old 12-03-2002, 12:56 PM   #3432
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Thanks again MarkG

Nice, that the Mission aint fragile.

About front camber links; Yes, I know about rollcenter / camber amplification. But I'm thinking of the steering in itself. Try to hold a wheel between 2 fingers. Place fingers over each other, next simulate with the other hand that the wheels turn (=steering). Now, try the same after taking one finger to the outside and another to the inside. Now the wheel make a weird angel, while turned. And this is NOT due to suspension action....

I hope you'll understand this explanation - it's much easier face to face and with a car....

Have you tried running with both positions yourself? Or some of your racer-fellows?

I'm happy with my sport2, but after 2 years, it's quite worn. So it'll take over 1/3 of a brand new Mission Carbon, to get the Sport2 in a really good shape.

I'm looking at the Mission and Yokomo MR4 Custom and the V-spec conversion. But the Yoke aint got droop screws (which I like) and I'll have to buy front whichbones (for sway-bars), springs, spurs and a center oneway for the Yoke. And the Yoke CVD's aint long lasting... all in all, the Yoke gets more expensive and the Mission got more and espicially smarter, adjustments. Not to mention that very nice transmission.... I'm just a little worried about that upper links in the front.

Hard choices, have to stay cool... Especially, since I'm on a tight budget
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Old 12-03-2002, 01:21 PM   #3433
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The Yoke's not a bad car...got one that my son was driving for a while, but from what I've seen the Mission is better...less fragile, better drive train, more tuneable...you are right that those Yok drive axles are fragile, as are the arms if I remember right...IMHO you'd be way happier with the Mission, and when you add it up the cost will be about the same...I think...

I understand your explanation...and dont really know how to respond, other than to say that I think the angles are so small that it doesnt make that much of an impact. I didnt notice an impact on the steering, but did on the traction running inner vs outer upper link positions. I have, and others around here have experimented with different positions...after playing with it I ground the inner holes off the hubs and use the inline position all the time...when I get new hubs I break out the dremel and grind away the inner holes, because I know I wont use them...I've run 'em on both asphalt and carpet....

Speaking of hubs, is anyone running the purple anodized? I was thinking about them, mainly just cause they look cool. Any down side to them??
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Old 12-03-2002, 02:45 PM   #3434
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Default Aluminum hubs

There is no downside tothe aluminum hubs, I have them and they work great, and are actually lighter than teh plastic.

Just make sure you use thread lock on teh set screw or it will back off in the middle of a race, and the lower ball joint will pop out.... However once you do this you don't have to worry about setting the lower pivot ball height because they donot thread into the hub.......
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Old 12-03-2002, 10:39 PM   #3435
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Thanks, MarkG.
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