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Old 10-09-2002, 05:34 AM   #3121
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Thanks Kevin, Fireblade and James. This is exactly what I needed to hear, can't wait to get it together. I'll also go back a few pages and look for darksied's info.
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Old 10-09-2002, 07:42 AM   #3122
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DonV, are you racing this weekend at HobbyTown?
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Old 10-09-2002, 10:49 AM   #3123
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Quote:
Originally posted by proudwinner
Thanks Kevin, Fireblade and James. This is exactly what I needed to hear, can't wait to get it together. I'll also go back a few pages and look for darksied's info.
LMK if you find it Jesse. I did a search and couldn't find it...
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Old 10-09-2002, 11:02 AM   #3124
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TeamAE......Another way to look at shock location is that the more you lay down the shock the more it effects weight transfer front and back.....and the more stood up the shock is its more resestant to transfering weight front and back. I think this is the biggest effect that changing shock location has on the car. Side bite and corner speed can be gained by other things then shock location....like springs and camber and camber location. So to cure your problem with your car pushing.......you can move the shocks around to get the desired weight transfer to fix the on power push if thats what you have.......to fix on power push stand the rear shocks up more so you dont transfer weight to the rear when you get on the gas.....and visa versa for off power push.
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Old 10-09-2002, 11:31 AM   #3125
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Quote:
Originally posted by King-G
To remove the Foam bobbin cartridge, I poke a small wrench through the bottom, carefully, to not scratch or mar anything.

To build my shocks do as Darkseid said...
soak the bobbin the first time, then fill the body to the middle of the thread. ...even fill it to the top if you dont mind wasting some...as it will just ensure you dont get air inside.

Then make sure there is the recommended gap between the piston, and the bottom cap...
lower the piston into the oil slowly, to allow air to escape. Then slowly screw the bottom cap on...give it a wiggle as you screw it on to allow any air trapped to escape (the trick here is to screw it on steadily and slowly)..
Tighten all the way down. Now compress the shock shaft, this will compress all of the oil into the bobbin...now crack the bottom seal just until you feel it loosen....then compress the shaft, exess oil will escape, along with any trapped air...
now let go of the shaft..and re-tighten..the shaft should come out just a little..(1-2mm)

I find using this method, I get equal rebound first time, everytime.
I have found the schumacher shocks to be the best I have worked on, very consistent, and very easy to work on.

This is just my personal method, but give it a try, as it works for me...Note I have the Alloy bottoms..(shouldnt matter).
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Old 10-09-2002, 01:51 PM   #3126
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Thanks again James, I was thinking I could just drill a tiny tiny hole in the side of the cartridge near the black o-ring and then just bleed them like you would a Losi shock.
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Old 10-09-2002, 02:14 PM   #3127
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Mopar- I will most likely be there Sunday, if nothing comes up. See you there?
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Old 10-09-2002, 02:16 PM   #3128
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Hey Mopar- Have you built a solid front diff,(spool). You need to try it. Mucho faster.
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Old 10-09-2002, 03:09 PM   #3129
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Cornerspeed Just don't hit any boards or it breaks the driveshaft real quick. How ya doin'? Haven't heard from you in a while...
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Old 10-09-2002, 03:36 PM   #3130
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Racer X-Dude, iam gonan be runnin expert sock at ripon, u gonna go @ ripon or speedworld?
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Old 10-09-2002, 03:39 PM   #3131
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Racer X- Been doing great. Just got married and ready to start back into racing my usual amount. Are you running the plastic or steel driveshafts? I'm running steels and I do the usual replace the blades every other run. I'm just running the spool in our local parking lot racing. One-way at SoCal. I'm trying to figure a way to add more surface area to the outdrives, as in outdrive saver that will fit.
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Old 10-09-2002, 05:35 PM   #3132
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Proudwinner, dont go drilling anything on your shocks, just give the method I posted a try.

I like the Idea Kevin K has posted about pulling the shaft to one side...will have to give this a try.

My best method has been to completely fill the shock, the piston gap to the lower cap should be about the height of the piston, as it is easy to do by eye.

You waste a little bit of oil by filling the body to the top, but you dont have to keep trying over and over to get rid of the air. I find that after dissasembely of my shocjks, the bobbins can trap some air, so this is why i fill all the way, slowly tighten, and try to fully compress the shaft, as this forces oil into the bobbin, then just crack the lower retainer until you first feel the oring loosen, then compress the shaft slowly, the desired amount of oil and air should escape. then retighten and all should be bonza!
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Old 10-09-2002, 05:41 PM   #3133
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Racer X - You gonna run at Speedworld this weekend? I will be up there. Hopefully I will have my front roll center done to the Mission. I am getting a front hingepin brace that looks like the stock one only with 2 mm added to it made out of CNC Aluminum. If I get it back from the machine shop in time I will show it to you.
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Old 10-09-2002, 05:43 PM   #3134
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Quote:
Originally posted by cornerspeed
Hey Mopar- Have you built a solid front diff,(spool). You need to try it. Mucho faster.
I've been using a solid front diff on my axis 2. It works really good on slippery tracks, it lets you go faster/deeper into a turn before you brake. Actually that's how I've been using it on all surfaces. No problems with breaking axles (lucky?)
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Old 10-09-2002, 10:03 PM   #3135
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King-G, I really didn't want to drill into my shock cartridges since the car wasn't really designed to have that kind of system. The Losi shafts are forced inward towards the shock cartridge where on these, they are forced out. I just rebuilt my shocks with your method and I must say, all four shocks are now rebounding the same with no air trapped inside. I even kept your method saved as a .doc file Thanks for the tip.
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