Schumacher Corner
#2806
Tech Regular
Well I bought two Sanwa (Airtronics) ERG-XS servos in about - 93 or something and I've never had any trouble with them ever since. So they have lasted nearly a decade and are still competitive racing equipment. Only my Sanwa Machine1 radio and 10x15 diff Boca bearings have lasted longer. The Bocas I bought for a Yokomo dogfighter I had ages ago. Since then the bearings have found new homes in many Yokomo and Schumacher cars and I now have them in my Mission. Great stuff.
About the tweak stuff. I agree. I'm also very glad Scumacher got rid of the tweak problems with the Mission. The Axis was a real pain.
About the tweak stuff. I agree. I'm also very glad Scumacher got rid of the tweak problems with the Mission. The Axis was a real pain.
#2807
1993????? HO Sh T Damn thats hella long for a servo!!
#2808
Tech Rookie
xxx-s versus Mission or maybe axis 2
Anyone go from Losi to Shu Mission! I'm giving it plenty of consideration, but I've noticed at the local track the Axis 2 is still the commanding car.
What is the best performance hop ups to do during the build, not the aluminium nice looking stuff performance items like one-way, light weight items etc.
What is the best performance hop ups to do during the build, not the aluminium nice looking stuff performance items like one-way, light weight items etc.
#2809
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Mr. G- go with the Mission. It's a far better car according to all the diehard Schuie guys I know.
As far as hopups, get the roll center blocks and the threaded shock bodies. If you're into good hardware, get the titanium screw kit and you won't have to mess with the hoopty wood screws that come with the kit. Also decide if you want to run Schumacher springs or associated TC3 springsd and get them from the beginning. Might consider using the Schumacher nonadjustable shock pistons too. If you're a oneway front diff fan then get one, but I don't see that as a neccessity from the beginning.
Hope this helps!!!
As far as hopups, get the roll center blocks and the threaded shock bodies. If you're into good hardware, get the titanium screw kit and you won't have to mess with the hoopty wood screws that come with the kit. Also decide if you want to run Schumacher springs or associated TC3 springsd and get them from the beginning. Might consider using the Schumacher nonadjustable shock pistons too. If you're a oneway front diff fan then get one, but I don't see that as a neccessity from the beginning.
Hope this helps!!!
#2810
I came from the Third world land of The Losi and Came to the Country of Shumacher.
#2811
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by fireblade
From where I come from there are tons of shuie guys, Yea its normal for a shumacher to kick ass and take names
From where I come from there are tons of shuie guys, Yea its normal for a shumacher to kick ass and take names
#2812
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by fireblade
I came from the Third world land of The Losi and Came to the Country of Shumacher.
I came from the Third world land of The Losi and Came to the Country of Shumacher.
My broadband is still sloooooooow!
#2813
ahh, my favorite topic, hopups, and ditching Losi's (dont worry its a local joke)
as for the Mission we are finding the car to be the most durable at our club, it continuosly comes away unscathed from hits that would have broken the Losi, tc3 and others...we find that breakages are very minimal, only upper arms are worthy of a mention. The little pivot Kingpins which screw into the underside of the steering hubs can bend, these are worthwhile checking each race day, as it can go undetected for some time, with weird handling traits.
also the mission is very Lightweight in Kit form...the other guys at our track are buying carbon this, Graphite that, alloy and Ti to get anywhere near the weight of the standard missions.
as for hopups, (for stock), definately go for both the grey belts, these along with the new RW racing machined pulleys make the mission a friggin efficiency machine!...
For Mod you can run the front grey ultraflex belt only, but soak the rear belt in wd40 overnight to really help.
for tuning options, always pick up 2 packs of springs (1 pair of each tension per pack)
I like the oneway Diff, but the mission is very fast in 4wd trim also, there was a lesser improvement once using the oneway on my mission than with previous cars raced. (for most cars it is mandatory, but I feel that the mission has plenty of steering and holds good cornerspeed out of the box),
so this one is personal preference.
For strength and Weight savings, look at the Titanium Turnbuckles, especially for the rear toe, the Kit ones are stong enough, but Ti is just horn. also you can look at the Titanium lower hingepins (dont bother with the upper ones, as they never bend!.
again, I never had a problem with the Kit items as they are pretty strong, but i am a sucker for hopups.
The alloy Layshaft mounts are one alloy item I recommend (along with the alloy layshaft pulleys, as these Items give consistent rear belt tension, and resist wear, skipping and chassis flex/ and provide a solid mount for the topdeck.
The Threaded shocks are usefull, along with the alloy bottom seal retainers, these items give good consistent dampening, without stiction.
For carpet or high grip asphalt, you can run the stiffer top deck, for added rigidity..It helps isolate all the forces through your suspension, and helps prevent scrubbing cornerspeed.
I have all of the available hopups on my car, and find those few to be the best bang for your buck.
If you wanted to go one step further, then look at the alloy Diff mounts, these have helped free up my car a little also, and give consistent chassis tweak as they are a more solid mounting point for the topdeck.
some hi quality fully sealed bearings (bocca accer etc...) I still run Kit type bearings in the hubs, and Tamiya blue seals for the Diffs.
I have the Ti screws, but dont find them to be of real benefit, as the Ti isnt much harder than the kit ones, and can still strip out, once you get to this point the weight savings are becoming less of an issue, as the car is underweight, but I have added 45 grams to my car on the left side to get it perfectly balanced, so every bit does count.
as for the Mission we are finding the car to be the most durable at our club, it continuosly comes away unscathed from hits that would have broken the Losi, tc3 and others...we find that breakages are very minimal, only upper arms are worthy of a mention. The little pivot Kingpins which screw into the underside of the steering hubs can bend, these are worthwhile checking each race day, as it can go undetected for some time, with weird handling traits.
also the mission is very Lightweight in Kit form...the other guys at our track are buying carbon this, Graphite that, alloy and Ti to get anywhere near the weight of the standard missions.
as for hopups, (for stock), definately go for both the grey belts, these along with the new RW racing machined pulleys make the mission a friggin efficiency machine!...
For Mod you can run the front grey ultraflex belt only, but soak the rear belt in wd40 overnight to really help.
for tuning options, always pick up 2 packs of springs (1 pair of each tension per pack)
I like the oneway Diff, but the mission is very fast in 4wd trim also, there was a lesser improvement once using the oneway on my mission than with previous cars raced. (for most cars it is mandatory, but I feel that the mission has plenty of steering and holds good cornerspeed out of the box),
so this one is personal preference.
For strength and Weight savings, look at the Titanium Turnbuckles, especially for the rear toe, the Kit ones are stong enough, but Ti is just horn. also you can look at the Titanium lower hingepins (dont bother with the upper ones, as they never bend!.
again, I never had a problem with the Kit items as they are pretty strong, but i am a sucker for hopups.
The alloy Layshaft mounts are one alloy item I recommend (along with the alloy layshaft pulleys, as these Items give consistent rear belt tension, and resist wear, skipping and chassis flex/ and provide a solid mount for the topdeck.
The Threaded shocks are usefull, along with the alloy bottom seal retainers, these items give good consistent dampening, without stiction.
For carpet or high grip asphalt, you can run the stiffer top deck, for added rigidity..It helps isolate all the forces through your suspension, and helps prevent scrubbing cornerspeed.
I have all of the available hopups on my car, and find those few to be the best bang for your buck.
If you wanted to go one step further, then look at the alloy Diff mounts, these have helped free up my car a little also, and give consistent chassis tweak as they are a more solid mounting point for the topdeck.
some hi quality fully sealed bearings (bocca accer etc...) I still run Kit type bearings in the hubs, and Tamiya blue seals for the Diffs.
I have the Ti screws, but dont find them to be of real benefit, as the Ti isnt much harder than the kit ones, and can still strip out, once you get to this point the weight savings are becoming less of an issue, as the car is underweight, but I have added 45 grams to my car on the left side to get it perfectly balanced, so every bit does count.
#2814
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
There is not too much that you need to hop up on the car like you do other cars. If you have the money there are plenty of things that you can buy but for the most part the kit is good from the get go. All I would suggest is the Titanium tierods for the rear toe links and the Alum Y blocks. Threaded bodies are nice but are not really needed the same with a 1 way.....even though I like a locked diff better some people like the 1 ways. Going on what King G said about the king pin screws you can now get them out of Titanium so they will not bend as much as the stock ones. Also the Warpspeed chassis is very nice and makes the car more responsive and its more balanced out more then the stock chassis. Things like the Alum Pully and diff mounts are nice or are something to change when the stock ones wear out or stip. This is one of the only cars that I can think of that when you get the stock kit there is not much more that you have to get to be fast, and the car is very durable compaired to alot of the cars on the market now.
#2815
Ti Kingpins?..im on it!
#2816
Tech Rookie
Mission Hop-ups
Great web site, Thanks for taking the time to list all your suggested hop-ups.
Yes Doug is on fire with the Axis 2 in Ripon and Sacramento !
Yes Doug is on fire with the Axis 2 in Ripon and Sacramento !
#2817
For some reason my losi turned hella wide, I did different shock mount places and a bunch of other stuff i can't remember to make it turn harder. Yea ur probley right, I should of asked YOU or some other losi guys or the man himself Matt. I still like my losi, Makes for a good backup car and its still WAY FAST. My mission only beats it cuz its lighter and has a more powerful motor and it turns faster.
#2818
Tech Rookie
Fireblade or anyone,
Where can I purchase RW racing stuff (like the machine gear)?
Where can I purchase the grey belts as mentioned for the Mission?
Warpspeed 2mm or 3mm I'm thinking 2mm and add thicker top deck for carpet, any comments.
Where can I purchase RW racing stuff (like the machine gear)?
Where can I purchase the grey belts as mentioned for the Mission?
Warpspeed 2mm or 3mm I'm thinking 2mm and add thicker top deck for carpet, any comments.
#2820
Tech Rookie
Mr.G you can order the grey belts as well as R.W gears thru Shumacher USA