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Old 09-01-2002, 09:15 PM   #2791
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Yea I agree with Bigdog, taking off the rear sway bar and leaving the front on would help
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Old 09-01-2002, 09:40 PM   #2792
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thanks for the tips Kevin K...

I had a very productive practice day yesterday, trying a number of different things from the setup that works on our home track.

I removed the swaybars front and rear and stood the shocks up to hole 4 front, hole 5 rear with blue springs / 40 weight oil , 3 hole pistons.

moved the front arm back 1 spacer to give me the original 6 degrees castor, and the car was great!..I ran better than my P.b in each of the runs after making these changes, and in my 2nd last run would have beaten the current track record (apart from a roll on a dot which lost me 16 seconds.

Very pleased with how the car transitioned with the stood up shocks, and it handled the bumps slightly better also...

The R/C mod is certainly helping, the car holds much better cornerspeed, and using the stiff topdeck has helped me regain some initial aggressivness I had lost.

I have also made a new transponder mount, made of carbon, it runs from ontop of the servo, to place the transponder outboard, halfway between the servo and speedie.

This combined with 45 grams directly on the edge of the chassis between teh servo and speedie has allowed my car to balance perfectly L/R and front to rear...equal weight distribution on all 4 tires!!!!.

My current asphalt setup (small bumps)
medium grip, mild weather for rubber tires (modified EFRA spec):

Front:
Blue spring, 40 weight, 3 hole piston....shock length 65.5 mm
Shock location: hole 4 on tower, hole 1 on arm
No sway bar
ride height 5.25mm
4 mm droop
Inboard Toe 0, Outboard toe 0.5 toe out.
Castor 6 deg
Camber - 0.5 degree
Upper arm mounted to hole 2 on bulkhead, no.2 on hubs (inner)
Lower arm 1 spacer in front
Steering turnbuckle to Hole 1 on hubs
Centre trackrod (ackerman) lengthened to 41.5mm (end to end)
Roll centre mod (using fireblade 0 degree blocks, (as shown in earlier posts)
Front oneway Diff.

Rear:
Blue spring, 40 weight, 3 hole piston....shock length 65.5 mm
Shock location: hole 5 on tower, hole 1 on arm
ride height 5.75mm
4 mm droop
Inboard Toe 0, Outboard toe 2 toe in.
Antisquat 0
Camber - 1 deg
Upper arm mounted to hole 2 on bulkhead, no.2 on hubs (inner)
Lower arm 2 spacers in front ( long wheelbase)
No sway bar

Misc:
Motor fantom TI 12x2, brushes Quasars, Timing 24 deg.
Gearing 92 spur, 26 pinion = 6.36
20 tooth Pulley
Carpet Topdeck
Takeoff 27's, Sorex Medium inserts.
Proto - Stratus
no additives, just warmers.

Car transitions well through technical sections, handles bumps well.
holds good cornerspeed, but for smoother tracks should try red springs F+R.
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Old 09-02-2002, 12:12 AM   #2793
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Thanks again for the set up help.

I have plenty to go at now but of course one change at a time.

I have a meeting coming up on Thursday night so I'll let you know how we do this week. Last week was good with an A-main finish in 6th. If I can improve on that It will be a personal best.

Thanks,

Yorkie
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Old 09-02-2002, 12:05 PM   #2794
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Anyone have a good asphalt setup for the warpspeed chassis.I run on a track with alot of turns and med.bite.
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Old 09-03-2002, 04:38 PM   #2795
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our delivery of fusions arrived yesterday..very scary indeed!..

85mph..that is faster than we can drive on our freeways!
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Old 09-03-2002, 06:00 PM   #2796
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Quote:
Originally posted by King-G
our delivery of fusions arrived yesterday..very scary indeed!..

85mph..that is faster than we can drive on our freeways!
Holy cow!!!!
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Old 09-03-2002, 06:17 PM   #2797
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Default not veyr many shcumahcer guys

i was at trcr in tacoma wa and i had seen one guy out of 30 runing a mission and he was kicking arse and takign names by the hand full and i race a old 98 pro and i beat all the new cars i have trouble with the tc3's btu i wait till they break but have you guys noticed that there are not very many schuey guys any more
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Old 09-03-2002, 07:45 PM   #2798
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From where I come from there are tons of shuie guys, Yea its normal for a shumacher to kick ass and take names
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Old 09-03-2002, 07:51 PM   #2799
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i'm tired of seeing those damn losi one belt wonders and tc3's they break too much i ran my shcuey in to the wall when my servo dided and i broke nothing a tc3 did he broke everything on the front end same with the losi's a guy barley hits a pipe and the wheel flys off wtf is this its not demo derby its racing
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Old 09-03-2002, 08:21 PM   #2800
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The losi and TC3 are real weak cars. The whole car on the TC3 is and on the losi the front end and the back end are really fragile,the middle is ok strong. The shumacher All Around is a real tough car, its a real solid and stable car. The only thing I wish they can to for next years car is add a tub like the losi or TC3 so your batteries don't fall out. Its a heartbreak when something so stupid as your batteries flyin out if ur car at a race.
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Old 09-03-2002, 08:39 PM   #2801
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Fireblade.....Something that you can try is taking some thick lexan and bend it in to an "L" shape and servo tape it to the outside edge of the chassis. That will help keep the cells in the car better if you are having a problem of them falling out, this is what I did on the Axis which they fell out far easier then they do now. Also I dont think that the "Molded Tub" is a better way to go. You should see how many chassis' the pro-drivers go throught untill the find a straight one and then its only that good for a short time. Plus have you ever noticed that the Associated chassis looks a lot like the stuff they make cheap tool boxes out of at Wal-Mart and Kmart???? I dont know about you but I want to race a car not a "tool Box". And yes there are plenty of Schumacher drivers out there they just dont have the budget that some of the big names are looking for to run the car.
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Old 09-03-2002, 09:21 PM   #2802
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lol lol! "The one and only Associated Toolbox AKA-TC3"LOL!
Ahh thats funny, Ive never thought of that before. That lexan is a good idea. Iam gonna have to try that. How is a molded tub not straight?
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Old 09-03-2002, 09:27 PM   #2803
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they warp due to the moulding process, as when the mould is poured the carbon is hot, as it cools, the chassis can contract and warp in places.

I found this out with my old tc3...my kit chassis was warped, and my carbon one also, although not as bad. also my first chassis tweaked from an overheated motor, and the motor mount was a little too tight, caused that side of the chassis to tweak. was never the same again!

I prefer carbon plate chassis anyday!..light, stong, and looks the part!

Last edited by King-G; 09-03-2002 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 09-03-2002, 10:10 PM   #2804
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Hrm, ic.
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Old 09-03-2002, 10:46 PM   #2805
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i've never had any trouble with my batts fallign otu when i sunk my chassie for my batts they stay right at home they are not too good for your home but i swear airtronics servo's suck ass i have had 3 gear sets break with in 2 weeks i spen more time worken on my servo's then i do my car
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