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Old 08-23-2002, 11:47 PM   #2761
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Quote:
Originally posted by fireblade
If your ride height is still high screw ur droop screw in farther. I just set my droop until the shock hits the top of my clip on my shock.
You should never try setting your ride height using the droop screws.
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Old 08-24-2002, 12:43 AM   #2762
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Kevin,
Thanks for the info.

Fire,
STLNLST is right. You should set your height first, then droop as they are 2 different things. Your ride height is how far from surface ( ie, pit table) the bottom of the chassis is. Droop is how far below the bottom of the chassis the lower arms hang. I you use the droop screws to adjust ride height, you may wind up with a car that has no suspension movement, or not enough. That's just my thought.


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Old 08-24-2002, 01:21 AM   #2763
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sydewynder
Where does everybody measure droop on the car (Mission)?
What do you set it at?
Do anyone have trouble lowering the ride height on the car. I have Shumacher threaded shocks and springs and it seems that the collars are all the way to the top and the ride height is still to high.
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Old 08-24-2002, 07:13 AM   #2764
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I don't use that to set my ride height,it was just a suggestion.Because with is what is happining with sidewynder isn't normal. The only other thing I can think of is switch to softer springs to help lower the ride height.He has his threaded shock all the way at the top and he says its still too high.
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Old 08-24-2002, 07:19 AM   #2765
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Wait a minute sydwinder. Are you setting the ride height WITH the batteries in the car? Ahh and for the droop, yea u are right my words in there were all messed up. I set my droop, when the SPRING barley hits the top of the shock clip thingy's.

Last edited by fireblade; 08-24-2002 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 08-24-2002, 09:46 PM   #2766
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Quote:
Originally posted by fireblade
Wait a minute sydwinder. Are you setting the ride height WITH the batteries in the car? Ahh and for the droop, yea u are right my words in there were all messed up. I set my droop, when the SPRING barley hits the top of the shock clip thingy's.
Yep the batteries are in the car. With blue springs I get 5.5mm front and 6mm rear and the threaded collars are about to fall off the shocks through the top. Thanks for the reply though.
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Old 08-24-2002, 10:33 PM   #2767
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good luck with your schumachers this weekend guys.
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Old 08-24-2002, 11:22 PM   #2768
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Hrm,Try a softer spring. Thats really that all I can think of. I run my ride height at around 5-5.5 but 6 is a little high. Thanks seaball for the good luck charm. I went up to speedworld in roseville,Ca and Broke about $90 is parts and a body LOL! Yea they have walls that iam not really used too but it was fun.
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Old 08-25-2002, 07:41 PM   #2769
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man,
we, my friend and i who are the only schuie guys out, broke a lot today too. we run the hubs in the inline position so that puts the wishbone in a vulnerable position since the rod is not in all the way. well, you get the idea. by the end of the day we both had 6-32 allthread piercing through just to finish the day...second and third in the A. it's time for an order from adrian.

sidenote* - i ran the cs 27 glr's today for the first time. they have the older, fuller, black insert in them. seemed a bit slippery for the softer coumpound. the wear was really even though. oh, and i have warped every cross 15 spoke wheel i've ever run. they're still round, but the centers are now angled so to speak. it happens with every set. i've heard nothing but good things about them, but i can't understand why mine are always not up to par. oh well.
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Old 08-25-2002, 07:53 PM   #2770
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I never made it to my main. I went out about 6 times (including practice) and every time I broke my car. My vision is pretty bad and iam getting glassed but unfortuanly I had none out there. So I could not see my car when it got dark and I broke it again! So I just said lets pack it up. The day was fun though and I had a good time. I broke the part of the sterring servo saver(the part that the servo arm connects to the saver) somehow I don't know,both of my front dogs,1 left A-Arm,2Left upper arms, and my bumper got worked too.The good ole protoform stratus was not even salvageable. It was a easy day to break about $100 in parts.

Last edited by fireblade; 08-25-2002 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 08-26-2002, 08:37 AM   #2771
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Hi Guys,

I'll be building a mission this week and I'd like to know what to look out for, if anything. Any building tips will be welcome.#

Is it still necessary to file the battery slots for the batteries to sit down lower and more secure?

I have built an Axis and Axis 2 in the past so I am not totally new to Schumacher kits.

Thanks,

Yorkie
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Old 08-26-2002, 09:20 AM   #2772
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Yorkie:

Step 2 (page 6)-Ignore the assembly diagram that shows the pulley fence going on with the ridges facing in, thats wrong. Look at the final assembly diagram, it shows the correct way, with the ridges facing out. You might want to pick up a small hobby vise to put it on correctly, it will be tough to get on.

Step 7 (page 13)-you probably already know this since you have built Schumacher kits before, but its worth mentioning again. Be sure you don't thread the lower pivot ball screws in too far and bind the driveshafts.

Step 1-4 (page 15)- the front and rear shock towers look the same, but they are different. So take note of the instructions and make sure the tower with the cut outs goes in back.

Step 1 & 2 (page 17)-the grub screws that hold the body post seem to do a much better job on the Mission than they did on previous cars(the post don't slip down in a roll over). So if you took extra steps to prevent slippage in the past, it probably wont be neccesary on the Mission.

Battery mounting-If you use 3000HV cells with an extra layer of shrink wrap, you will need to put slight dips in the inside of your battery post. This will let them fit in without bending the post. Also, adding a thin washer under each post will let all the Sanyo cells fit better. This is easier than cutting the battery slots deeper.

Thats about all I could think of.
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Old 08-26-2002, 02:38 PM   #2773
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Thanks Darkseid,

I knew there would be something to consider.

The kit should arrive tomorrow so I'll let you know how it handles when I race on Thursday.

Trying out a couple of Fewer bodies, BMW & Ford Falcon. Just for something different and a local model shop was selling them off cheap. They certainly look more realistic. There's not set rules for bodyshells at the local club so there won't be a problem with regulations.

Regards,

Yorkie.
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Old 08-26-2002, 03:39 PM   #2774
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BMW's are pretty good bodies. They want to tip a little. They have a lot of downforce. O BTW, when you cut your wing a little mod that I do is The line that they tell you to cut on,Cut about 1/2"-1" inch higher than the line. This will greatley give you more downforce and make the car easier to drive.Also, if your getting the Protoform BMW, In the wheel wells when you cut them out there is a cut out of a square in the middle of the wheel well. Those you cut out after you cut out the body. You take those little squares and glue them on to the sides of your wing. This helps a little too. Hey, its better to have more downfoce then too little.
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Old 08-26-2002, 05:23 PM   #2775
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So to get ride ht. lowered I have to put softer springs..right. Or should I get assoc. springs like alot of racers use on their shuie's?
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