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Old 12-11-2009, 07:31 AM   #27571
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It's pretty confusing just doing the math when shimming your car. It's more accurate you use a setup station.

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It's Newbie day so another quick question. On the MI3.5, is there a toe angle built in to the rear arms? Also, the manual states a change of .60 degrees of toe for each .50 spacer used. Is that .10 difference that critical or do we just round things out to even numbers ie: assuming 1 degree built in to arms with 0 degree hubs....add .50 shim to inboard rear = 1.5 begrees total toe in ??

Regarding front inboard toe...when would it be adviseable to change inboard toe vs. outboard toe only. All my previous cars only adjusted toe via turnbuckles. Isn't changing inboard toe also affecting castor ?
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Old 12-11-2009, 07:43 AM   #27572
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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
It's Newbie day so another quick question. On the MI3.5, is there a toe angle built in to the rear arms? Also, the manual states a change of .60 degrees of toe for each .50 spacer used. Is that .10 difference that critical or do we just round things out to even numbers ie: assuming 1 degree built in to arms with 0 degree hubs....add .50 shim to inboard rear = 1.5 begrees total toe in ??
There is none built in, it's just the way the math works out due to the distance of the blocks on the bulkheads. Imagine a triangle, the shorter the distance between 2 points will affect how much different the "point" moves.



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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
Regarding front inboard toe...when would it be adviseable to change inboard toe vs. outboard toe only. All my previous cars only adjusted toe via turnbuckles. Isn't changing inboard toe also affecting castor ?
Inboard toe will not affect caster, pin angle will (kick up/antidive). Inboard toe (additional) will provide sharper turnin. There shouldn't be a need for more than 1-2mm of it. Haynes std Mi3.5 setup runs 1mm extra on the rear block.
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:04 AM   #27573
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Thanks fellas, so if there's no built in toe to the arms...and with the spacers installed according to manual ( 1mm in back of arm and 2mm at front of arm )that would seem to produce 1 degree toe out ? And why is there a .5 and a 1mm spacer required for the rearward pivot screw? Although I'm guessing thats just to control the depth the screw goes into the bulkhead.
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:08 AM   #27574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
It's Newbie day so another quick question. On the MI3.5, is there a toe angle built in to the rear arms? Also, the manual states a change of .60 degrees of toe for each .50 spacer used. Is that .10 difference that critical or do we just round things out to even numbers ie: assuming 1 degree built in to arms with 0 degree hubs....add .50 shim to inboard rear = 1.5 begrees total toe in ??

Regarding front inboard toe...when would it be adviseable to change inboard toe vs. outboard toe only. All my previous cars only adjusted toe via turnbuckles. Isn't changing inboard toe also affecting castor ?
The arm itself has ZERO toe setting. You can adjust the inboard toe in/out by adding and removing shims at all those purple hinges. Schumacher has the -1* outboard toe-in aluminum rear upright to purchase though. It is a good option to have.

I don't think adding 0.5mm shim = 0.5 degrees...I don't know there is a conversion there but you should always use the setup station to double check your angles. Also, it does not need to be 0.1 degree that kinda critical because it is all depends on your setup station....my $40 Integy alum station read alittle different then the $100 HUDY one but BOTH are not like 100% correct right on the number cause when you are measuring/reading, you will find out your arm, bearing, axle...everything has some kinda play allow, that will cause a different reading on the guage. I would say...push the suspension down couple time and read the number...as long as that match what you would like, that is close enough.

Again, I rather spend more time on the TRACK driving then wrenching and reading numbers....
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Old 12-11-2009, 01:22 PM   #27575
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anyone need the 3mm carpet chassis and or 5 cell chassis for the Mi3. dirt cheap. like almost free.
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Old 12-11-2009, 04:57 PM   #27576
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Does anyone have the stock mi 3.5 setup printed out on a set up sheet that they could post here or email me ?. The manual can be a little confusing . My email is hippie@hurricanercclub.com . Thank's
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Old 12-13-2009, 07:37 PM   #27577
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New to on-road. My new Mi3.5 should be here soon. Question? What pitch spur gear is stock on this car? If it is 64P my off-road 48P pinions won't fit obviously. I will be running 17.5BL on small carpet track with rubber tires. Final ratio should be around 4.5. Probably wrote that wrong but that is what I was told. I want to order about 6 pinions so I am ready when I get to the track. What sizes will be a good starting place?

For some reason I can't seem to get either the parts manual or the set-up sheets that are on the Schumacher website. Probably nothing wrong with their site, just my slow computer.
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:08 PM   #27578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hippie View Post
Does anyone have the stock mi 3.5 setup printed out on a set up sheet that they could post here or email me ?. The manual can be a little confusing . My email is hippie@hurricanercclub.com . Thank's

Don't know if these are the manual setups, but one of them should give you a good start.
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:27 PM   #27579
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Don't know if these are the manual setups, but one of them should give you a good start.



DANNY thank's but none of those are the stock setting . Adam gave me a carpet setup when i bought the car from them . I put it on & the car feels pretty good to me . But i wanted to try the box stock setup . Because i never tried it on the car when i bought it .
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:56 PM   #27580
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My Race version Mi3.5 TC came in and I am impressed. Got to drive it today for the first time. Being new to on-road racing I was not sure what to expect, but things went well.

The car comes basically assembled and it looks really sweet. Has lots of aluminum and tons of adjustments. The car handles pretty decent right out of the box. (17.5 rubber on carpet) I ended up replacing the stock 89 Spur for the optional 85 so I could gear high enough for the 17.5. After 6 minute rounds the Speed Passion motor is very cool, only takes about 1000 Mah per round.

I also was impressed with how light the car is. I get to add quite a bit of weight for the 1425G limit at the track.

With what I have found so far I am happy with my purchase and can sure recommend it to other semi-serious racers out there.

Also the manual I found to be quite informative and really liked the 3 set-up sheets in the back. Gives a good starting place for us new guys.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:09 PM   #27581
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Hey, welcome to Shuie World !! I'm new also ...just bought a couple of pre-owned MI3.5's and loving them. 1 was set up similar to the general settings I had on my previous car so I tried it with no changes whatsoever....and it handled really well. The car is rock tough too. I had a Mission a while back and it was the same. You'll love the help from Shawn and Adam...and they seem to like the abuse !!

Had to add a pic from our last club day. Taken as we were setting up and showing off the new banner. I run the club, own the equipment and drive the only Schuie.... That should explain the top billing !!!
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Schumacher Corner-club-pics-002.jpg  

Last edited by Evoracer; 12-21-2009 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 12-22-2009, 05:43 PM   #27582
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can anyone tell me the pitch of a mi3 drive belt??
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:37 PM   #27583
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My curiosity is killing me....Why would the belt pitch be important?? I've never heard the question asked before.
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Old 12-22-2009, 08:16 PM   #27584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
My curiosity is killing me....Why would the belt pitch be important?? I've never heard the question asked before.
i need to order a 210 tooth 6mm wide belt for a speed car so i need to no the pitch i think it is 2.5 or 3mm
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:00 AM   #27585
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The pitch 3 mm.

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