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Old 02-09-2009, 08:16 PM   #27181
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
If you need spurs smaller than the schumacher go to your local auto parts store (autozone or pepboys) and get one of these vacumm fittings part# 47341, then cut the larger size about 3mm in size. Then fit that piece over the bearing.Then slide on to the spur gear of choice. You have to drill 2 new holes on the spur gear to mount it on the pulley. The vacumm fitting cost less than $3.00 and it took me all about 5 minutes to do. I keep it in my box when I need a certain gear ratio than I cant do with the Schumacher spur gears. I hope this helps.



with this easy spacer I can use almost every spur gear out there.
didn't HPI spurs come with a similar purple ring spacer?
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:34 PM   #27182
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Is anybody using anything different for hinge pins? I have been having them bend on the ends where thier hollow.
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:48 PM   #27183
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Some guys tried the Losi JRXS-R pins. They were a bit shorter and they were using them without the small screws in the ends of the pivot block.I tried them and they bent just as easily as the standard ones IMHO. I personally am running the drill blanks that Goetz peeped us to. We had Larry Bradshaw (Team Tamale) machine some parts that worked around the blanks and they have been flawless for me. If you PM Seaball I bet he can point you in te right direction to get the blanks. In fact if you PM McGoo he might even have a few sets of the whole thing for you. It included lower pivot blocks, camber hangers, and drill blanks machined and cut for use with a setscrew.

The second best option I found was to use the standard hinge pins and be sure to use the screws tightened in the end. I felt the added meat in the hollow end added some rigidity. Be sure the arm is free however as they tended to bind when tightened down properly. A little work with some sand paper and the shims worked for me. They still bent though . . .
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:13 AM   #27184
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didn't HPI spurs come with a similar purple ring spacer?
yes they did but noone had them in stock in my area
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:22 AM   #27185
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Hey, email me dude. Your emails have been getting kicked back lately

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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Some guys tried the Losi JRXS-R pins. They were a bit shorter and they were using them without the small screws in the ends of the pivot block.I tried them and they bent just as easily as the standard ones IMHO. I personally am running the drill blanks that Goetz peeped us to. We had Larry Bradshaw (Team Tamale) machine some parts that worked around the blanks and they have been flawless for me. If you PM Seaball I bet he can point you in te right direction to get the blanks. In fact if you PM McGoo he might even have a few sets of the whole thing for you. It included lower pivot blocks, camber hangers, and drill blanks machined and cut for use with a setscrew.

The second best option I found was to use the standard hinge pins and be sure to use the screws tightened in the end. I felt the added meat in the hollow end added some rigidity. Be sure the arm is free however as they tended to bind when tightened down properly. A little work with some sand paper and the shims worked for me. They still bent though . . .
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Old 02-10-2009, 07:02 AM   #27186
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I personally am running the drill blanks that Goetz peeped us to.
www.mcmaster.com, part no. 3009A118
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:59 AM   #27187
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Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:40 AM   #27188
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Never ran 17.5 before, but i am this weekend. carpet rubber 115ft straight. 106 and 50 is the biggest that will fit. thats FDR of 3.82. i dont think thats low enough. i heard people tell me more like a 3.2?
3.2 definitely TOO LOW...differnet motor can do different things, DUO 17.5 can even have mechanical timing adjustment...but my 17.5 key number is 4. Then up and down by 2-3 tooth of pinion should get you ball park. 3.2 final drive is WAY beyond that sweet spot unless there are something magic happened...

Again, I was referring to indoor carpet about 50 x 80 track...
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:44 AM   #27189
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Quick question guys: What gives more flex, the stiff top deck or the EU top deck?

Thanks!!
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:48 AM   #27190
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www.mcmaster.com, part no. 3009A118
Is that direct drop in without cutting and sanding...? Thanks..
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:31 AM   #27191
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
Quick question guys: What gives more flex, the stiff top deck or the EU top deck?

Thanks!!
Hey Yohan on sunday I tried the EU top deck and the original top deck for the MI3 , my car felt alot better with the original top deck and was a little bit faster with it. But the EU top deck should give you more flex than the stiff top deck.
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:40 AM   #27192
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Hey Yohan on sunday I tried the EU top deck and the original top deck for the MI3 , my car felt alot better with the original top deck and was a little bit faster with it. But the EU top deck should give you more flex than the stiff top deck.
Thanks Marcos BTW, you got PM
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:28 AM   #27193
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Is that direct drop in without cutting and sanding...?
nope. you need to cut them to length (with a cutoff wheel). also, i would not recommend polishing them, as the mil finish they come with is extremely fine.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:02 PM   #27194
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Default Mi3 swaybars

Is there a better swaybar setup for the Mi3? I never seem to get the same amount of force left to right with the stock swaybar setup even when repositioning the swaybars. And the links never seem to be at the same angle from left to right.
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:25 PM   #27195
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Is there a better swaybar setup for the Mi3? I never seem to get the same amount of force left to right with the stock swaybar setup even when repositioning the swaybars. And the links never seem to be at the same angle from left to right.
If you have Mi2EC front arms you can mount the stock Mi3 sway bar off the top of the front bumper brace where it screws to the bulkhead then run the links to the molded ball in the Mi2EC arms.....this setup actually works better because the pivot locations are further out on the arms then with the stock Mi3 arms.....with the stock mi3 arms the pivot location is too close the the center of car IMO to really have any effect unless you are using like a 3mm sway bar.
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