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Old 12-16-2008, 12:21 PM   #27061
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Add a wheel spacer or you can get Wider rear Hexes....I think the ones from the MI2(not EC) or Fusion will work....or you can go with any of the other wider hexes on the market just make sure that you space them properly.
Thanks for the fast reply!
I have some wheel spacers and I think that 3 wil do the trick, but then there is no thread available to bolt the nut to.
Also, surely, a wider hex would have the same problem where there is not enough thread?
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:24 PM   #27062
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What a wider hex will do is allow more of the hex to go into the hex on the wheel if you add too many spacers then the hex doesnt go far enough into the wheel hex. You can also get a thinner wheel nut. Takeoff sells some 4mm nuts with out the flange on them and Core RC sells some serrated wheel nuts that lock into the wheel when you tighten them down...so if you only have a few threads showing these might be the option that you need.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:27 PM   #27063
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
What a wider hex will do is allow more of the hex to go into the hex on the wheel if you add too many spacers then the hex doesnt go far enough into the wheel hex. You can also get a thinner wheel nut. Takeoff sells some 4mm nuts with out the flange on them and Core RC sells some serrated wheel nuts that lock into the wheel when you tighten them down...so if you only have a few threads showing these might be the option that you need.
Cool - so a combo of wider hex (basically using this instead of spaces for better engagement) and a thinner wheel nut might solve it?

Generally, what kind of wheels should fit? I assume I just need ones with a slightly larger internal diameter.
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Old 12-16-2008, 03:41 PM   #27064
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Cool - so a combo of wider hex (basically using this instead of spaces for better engagement) and a thinner wheel nut might solve it?

Generally, what kind of wheels should fit? I assume I just need ones with a slightly larger internal diameter.
Just run what you like and after one run of practice just remove some material in the area of the arm where its rubbing. After that you can run anything.
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:32 AM   #27065
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Does anyone currently make aluminum front caster blocks for the Mi3? I heard team Tamale made them in the past but I emailed them and received no response.
Sucks paying 10.99 for these and always ending up using right hand ones, leaving me to buy a new set to get a left or other way around. The obvious solution would be to stop hitting things but I can swear that I broke some without taping anything. Carpet puts a lot of stress due to high grip. Would love to get something more durable up front. Anything ??

Tony
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:37 AM   #27066
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Does anyone currently make aluminum front caster blocks for the Mi3? I heard team Tamale made them in the past but I emailed them and received no response.
Sucks paying 10.99 for these and always ending up using right hand ones, leaving me to buy a new set to get a left or other way around. The obvious solution would be to stop hitting things but I can swear that I broke some without taping anything. Carpet puts a lot of stress due to high grip. Would love to get something more durable up front. Anything ??

Tony
p-dub front bumper would be a great help!
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:47 AM   #27067
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p-dub front bumper would be a great help!

Already have the Pdub bumper which is why I think some of the breaking is due to stress and little bumps over time.

Tony
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:50 AM   #27068
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Already have the Pdub bumper which is why I think some of the breaking is due to stress and little bumps over time.

Tony
I would stick with the stock caster blocks, if you get the aluminum ones you might hit and bend them. You might not be able to tell by looking at them but your caster might be a few degrees off .
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:34 AM   #27069
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Originally Posted by under200 View Post
Does anyone currently make aluminum front caster blocks for the Mi3? I heard team Tamale made them in the past but I emailed them and received no response.
Sucks paying 10.99 for these and always ending up using right hand ones, leaving me to buy a new set to get a left or other way around. The obvious solution would be to stop hitting things but I can swear that I broke some without taping anything. Carpet puts a lot of stress due to high grip. Would love to get something more durable up front. Anything ??

Tony
Tony,

Tamale is out of them. He only made a couple runs of them. Your best bet would be to see if anyone wants to sell their own.

Aluminum can bend, but in all the years of running Tamale's stuff, i have yet to bend anything. Can it be done? Yes? Probable? No
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:45 AM   #27070
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I think Solara may have a pretty dialed setup???
My setup is for Mi2EC that I just retired her....my new setup will be using rubber/carpet setup and add double spacer on the front wheel and with OFF SET lipo placement...plus some speed secret from Kevin Kane....
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:46 AM   #27071
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Default thanks for vta set up

just got mi3 so will be looking through this thread for help thanks new to touring cars also tuning in the dark new world
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:43 AM   #27072
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curious about the differences in the mi3 and 3.5

got a good deal on a mi3 but dont know much about it! thanks!
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Old 12-21-2008, 09:35 AM   #27073
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Guys I want to hard wire my leads from the charger for my battery outputs need to figure out which is positive and negative for soldering anybody know or better yet done it yet.

Rod
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:42 PM   #27074
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curious about the differences in the mi3 and 3.5

got a good deal on a mi3 but dont know much about it! thanks!
The Mi3.5 has lighter 7075 alloy bulkheads, stronger CVD's...those are the two biggies.
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:10 AM   #27075
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Originally Posted by ryan sparks View Post
curious about the differences in the mi3 and 3.5

got a good deal on a mi3 but dont know much about it! thanks!
The Mi3.5 is essentially the Mi3 with additions that make the car stronger and faster - these are the things that the team drivers have been racing and are available as upgrade parts - but the Mi3.5 gives you them all in one package.

From the Schumacher site... the things that have changed;

* Cars now pre assembled ready to use.
* Improved 5 or 6 cell carbon fibre chassis option & ‘EU’ Top Deck.
* Improved Lightweight diff mounts.
* New Shock cap for improved shock bleeding and rebound options.
* Improved CV drive shafts with thinner bones and spring steel axle.
* New front hub carrier with improved ackerman tuning options.
* New medium Flex wishbones for increased traction and better impact absorption.
* Fully adjustable, suspension geometry, wheelbase, caster, camber, roll centre, track width, ackerman, droop, anti dive, anti squat, front toe in/out, ride height and much more.
* Efficient transmission with twin Kevlar belts and precision CNC pulleys.
* Alloy eccentric adjusters for optimum belt tension. Easy diff height adjustment to allow changes in drive shaft plunge. This can be used to increase or decrease traction.
* Industry first static layshaft with ultra low rotating mass gear pulley assembly.
* Quick release diffs – Just 2 screws!!
* Super easy to work on design.
* Symmetrical chassis layout with few screws minimises tweak.
* Alloy CV drive shafts with spring steel axles and low friction blades.
* Stiff 3mm shock towers with optimised shock positions.
* Lightweight machined diff pulley, Ceramic diff balls, aerospace thrust bearing.
* Heavy duty front spool with CNC pulley.
* Twin pivot block design allows infinite adjustment of roll centres, toe-in, anti-squat, and track width on front and rear.
* New twin axis inner camber links for infinite camber link height and length adjustment.
* Fully adjustable steering including Velocity Ratio, Ackermann Angle and Ackerman Rate.
* Lightweight foam bumper.
* Spring steel suspension pins.
* Purple alloy M3 and M4 nuts.
* Battery fixing with tape or optional battery strap.
* Speed secret parts available to fine tune to all track conditions.

Pro only specs;

* Titanium Turnbuckles.
* Ultra Low Anti roll bars.
* Ultra smooth Nickel-Teflon plated threaded alloy shock absorbers for extreme smoothness and durability.
* 2mm Aerospace carbon fibre chassis and top deck with optimised flex.
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