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Old 11-04-2008, 02:23 PM   #26971
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Thanks, I guess I wasn't very far off. This weekend was the first time I ever tried driving a T/A car. I ran the car that Chris Goetz raced at the Halloween Classic but it was on a much tighter track with less traction. The only change I made was switching the one-way for a diff and gearing it 96/36
you probably should have opted for the spool instead.

i think our car was pretty decent, and after reading kevin's response, it seems pretty close to where we ended up.
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:21 PM   #26972
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Actually Im in Boulder now at CU so Im gonna do some racing down here. I may take you up on those battery locater PPD weights though .

pm me you address and i'll drop them in the mail
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:28 PM   #26973
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Thanks, I guess I wasn't very far off. This weekend was the first time I ever tried driving a T/A car. I ran the car that Chris Goetz raced at the Halloween Classic but it was on a much tighter track with less traction. The only change I made was switching the one-way for a diff and gearing it 96/36

i'll have to see if i still have it, i ran TA on a large outdoor track and the diff worked better then the spool, mainly because of lack of traction, 1500 grams was min weight but my car liked more weight, think i was around 1575grams i ran round 1 degree rear toe, the back of the car was stuck and this helped to loosen it up and give more steering also. if i find the setup sheet i will post the rest, if not i hate to give bad info based off my bad memory.
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:27 AM   #26974
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Originally Posted by Grease View Post
Thanks, I guess I wasn't very far off. This weekend was the first time I ever tried driving a T/A car. I ran the car that Chris Goetz raced at the Halloween Classic but it was on a much tighter track with less traction. The only change I made was switching the one-way for a diff and gearing it 96/36
Yeah Like Chris said a Spool or Spiff(Diff turned Spool) would be better on the smaller less traction track. On Carpet with rubber tires a Spool or 1-way are 99% of the time faster then a diff.....and a Spool is the easiest to drive fast but breakage is always a concern.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:48 AM   #26975
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Originally Posted by seaball View Post
you probably should have opted for the spool instead.

i think our car was pretty decent, and after reading kevin's response, it seems pretty close to where we ended up.
I tried the spool but didn't like it, I had way too much steering but I was also saucing the whole front tire at the time. I'll try it again after I learn a little bit more about rubber tires. You coming up for practice tonight?
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:34 PM   #26976
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Spools are almost always faster than a diff once setup properly, like you experienced our car gets killer steering with a spool up front. In my opinion it's worth it to keep the spool up front and if you have too much steering, try removing it elsewhere. Something I've often done is get my car to oversteer and then decrease steering electronically (or turn the wheel less ) so you don't have such extreme scrub angles on the front end which should help with corner speed. Or you could raise the front hinge pins which should make the steering less aggressive and also be easier on the front tire wear. Just some food for thought!

And like Kevin mentioned, if you're worried about breaking with a spool you can always turn a diff into a spool. I used to do that a lot for club racing where I wasn't concerned about the added rotational mass.
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Old 11-05-2008, 04:09 PM   #26977
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I tried the spool but didn't like it, I had way too much steering but I was also saucing the whole front tire at the time. I'll try it again after I learn a little bit more about rubber tires. You coming up for practice tonight?
If this was on carpet, try just using additive on the inner half of the front tyres, or none at all (I had to do this recently).

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Old 11-09-2008, 07:24 AM   #26978
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Hi guys!

About to start racing again, with the Mi3.5.

Is the arms the same as on the Mi2 & 3? And the spool? Don't want to order the wrong parts, that would be kinda very stupid:P

And please mention what other parts are shared if you know
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:02 AM   #26979
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Hi Martin,

the 3.5 arms are the same as Mi3. Mi2 arms fit, but don't have the swaybar mounting holes, these have to be drilled if you want to use Mi2 arms.
Mi3 CF arms are U3127 front, U3128 rear, these are the hardest ones you can get, I use them most of the time. Mi2 CF arms are a bit softer, some people like the U2765 Mi2 front CF arms on Mi3 (and drill the swaybar holes). If you need even more flex, there's U3249 Wishbones Front; Med Flex - Mi3 and U3250 Wishbones Rear; Med Flex - Mi3. On asphalt, I use the U3249 up front and original U3128 in the rear mainly, but on carpet I use the original U3127/U3128 most of the time.
The spool is the same, U3225 CNC Spool Assembly HD - Mi-3, but the things that wear & break are the spool outputs, U3141 HD Spool Output - Mi-3. Mi2 original spool will fit, but is physically weaker and also breaks the blades more easily. The U3225 spool fits Mi2 as well.

Most of the parts are actually the same between Mi3 and 3.5, they have just taken the most important hopup parts for the Mi3 and called it 3.5 Between Mi2 and 3.5, there's not much in common... body posts, rear belt and most of the bearings are probably the most important ones Some parts will fit (like driveshafts and lower arms), but are a bit different.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:15 AM   #26980
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That's one brilliant post, thank you!

I have never driven any Schumacher cars in the past, so it will be an interesting new experience. Also, I haven't raced for 2 years now, so I'm really excited about starting again

I will try to make it to one of the local races for a test, before DHI-CUP in january... Even though I'm not up to date with my driving, being a tad prepared before a race like that never hurts
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Last edited by MartinSorlie; 11-09-2008 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:48 AM   #26981
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Var så god, Martin
How much local parts & setup support do you have there in Norway? I think the Mi3.5 kit "carpet" setup should be Chris Ashton's last year's DHI cup setup (or at least very close), so it's probably a good start. I think Chris used Tamiya springs at DHI 08, his setup is on Schumacher web site.
I'm sure your driving is still way better than mine ever will be, I remember you were not one of the slowest dudes in Norway. I've only raced there once (at Sorlihavna several years ago), but I have very nice memories from the race, although the track was more "offroadish" than I would have liked.
Say hi to Eirik and Thorbjorn, if you see them around
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:58 AM   #26982
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Originally Posted by olev View Post
Var så god, Martin
How much local parts & setup support do you have there in Norway? I think the Mi3.5 kit "carpet" setup should be Chris Ashton's last year's DHI cup setup (or at least very close), so it's probably a good start. I think Chris used Tamiya springs at DHI 08, his setup is on Schumacher web site.
I'm sure your driving is still way better than mine ever will be, I remember you were not one of the slowest dudes in Norway. I've only raced there once (at Sorlihavna several years ago), but I have very nice memories from the race, although the track was more "offroadish" than I would have liked.
Say hi to Eirik and Thorbjorn, if you see them around
Just about none, so it will be just about how it was when I raced for Corally...
I'm pretty darn rusty I think, but I have raced a fair bit of 1:24 slot car racing, so my reactions should at least be okay

Ah, you where at the Efra GP we had there? I guess I can safely say winning the 2nd final ahead of Steen Graversen, Victor Wilck, Joel Myrberg, Eirik and so on, is the best on track moment I've had so far Getting back to that level might take some time

Eirik is still racing, and on a very high level, while Thorbjørn has settled down with kids and all. I'll say hi from you!
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Old 11-09-2008, 10:43 AM   #26983
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Yup, I was at the GP race.
If you have no local parts source, then it would probably be a good idea to stock up some parts... I would have at least the following:
U1918 Spare "Blades"
U3273 CF 2008 Euro Top Deck - Mi-3
U3274 CF 2008 Flex Top Deck - Mi-3 (tuning option)
U3267 Driveshafts; Heavy Duty - Mi3 (pr)
U3160 85T 48DP CNC Spur Gear - Mi-3 (or 64 pitch)
U3161 87T 48DP CNC Spur Gear - Mi-3 (or 64 pitch)
U3162 89T 48DP CNC Spur Gear - Mi-3 (or 64 pitch)
U3142 Pro Pivot Pin 55mm Mi-3 (don't use the Ti ones, they bend way too easily)
U3141 HD Spool Output - Mi-3
U3140 Diff Washer; ProSpec - Mi-3 (pr) replaces tri-lobe
U3135 Centre Track Rods; Set 7 - Mi3
U3127 Wishbones; Graphite Front - Mi-3
U3128 Wishbones; Graphite Rear - Mi-3
U3126 CNC Pulley & Fences 20T - Mi-3
U2990 Front Hub Carrier - Mi2 E.C.
U2992 Rear Hub Carrier - Mi2 E.C.
U2999 Race Shock Seal Rebuild Pack (pr)
U2997 Race Shock Rod; Ti-Nitride - 30mm (pr)
U3155 Front Bumper Mouldings - Mi-3
U2737 Steering Yoke, 4 degree - Mi-2 pr Kit Std
U2721 Rear Belt, Black Narrow - Mi-2
U3011 Front Belt, 171t x 3.6mm - Mi-2 E.C.
U2459 Tungsten Carbide Diff Balls 2.5mm(pk12) (or ceramic, whichever you prefer)
U2148 Ball Bearing - 5 x 10 x 4 Shielded (pr)
U3016 Ball Bearing 10x15x4
This would be my "must have" list. I pulled the numbers from my stock list I've been running (and selling) Schumacher cars since '98 or so, I have some experience about what breaks and wears.

One thing I would change right away for modified racing:
U3221 Purple Alloy Wheel Hex; Grooveless (pk4)
use those (or similar) at the front. The original ones have a o-ring groove and this makes the contact patch very narrow, especially with a wheel spacer. With modified power and spool this results in destroyed wheel. Rears have no problems, diff takes the hit.

I think the 3.5 also comes with white springs all around, it needs something harder up front (like U2824 blues), but if you prefer other brands and have them available, you don't have to use Schumacher.

Longish post, but I hope it was helpful to you or anyone else in the same situation.
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Old 11-09-2008, 11:03 AM   #26984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olev View Post
Yup, I was at the GP race.
If you have no local parts source, then it would probably be a good idea to stock up some parts... I would have at least the following:
U1918 Spare "Blades"
U3273 CF 2008 Euro Top Deck - Mi-3
U3274 CF 2008 Flex Top Deck - Mi-3 (tuning option)
U3267 Driveshafts; Heavy Duty - Mi3 (pr)
U3160 85T 48DP CNC Spur Gear - Mi-3 (or 64 pitch)
U3161 87T 48DP CNC Spur Gear - Mi-3 (or 64 pitch)
U3162 89T 48DP CNC Spur Gear - Mi-3 (or 64 pitch)
U3142 Pro Pivot Pin 55mm Mi-3 (don't use the Ti ones, they bend way too easily)
U3141 HD Spool Output - Mi-3
U3140 Diff Washer; ProSpec - Mi-3 (pr) replaces tri-lobe
U3135 Centre Track Rods; Set 7 - Mi3
U3127 Wishbones; Graphite Front - Mi-3
U3128 Wishbones; Graphite Rear - Mi-3
U3126 CNC Pulley & Fences 20T - Mi-3
U2990 Front Hub Carrier - Mi2 E.C.
U2992 Rear Hub Carrier - Mi2 E.C.
U2999 Race Shock Seal Rebuild Pack (pr)
U2997 Race Shock Rod; Ti-Nitride - 30mm (pr)
U3155 Front Bumper Mouldings - Mi-3
U2737 Steering Yoke, 4 degree - Mi-2 pr Kit Std
U2721 Rear Belt, Black Narrow - Mi-2
U3011 Front Belt, 171t x 3.6mm - Mi-2 E.C.
U2459 Tungsten Carbide Diff Balls 2.5mm(pk12) (or ceramic, whichever you prefer)
U2148 Ball Bearing - 5 x 10 x 4 Shielded (pr)
U3016 Ball Bearing 10x15x4
This would be my "must have" list. I pulled the numbers from my stock list I've been running (and selling) Schumacher cars since '98 or so, I have some experience about what breaks and wears.

One thing I would change right away for modified racing:
U3221 Purple Alloy Wheel Hex; Grooveless (pk4)
use those (or similar) at the front. The original ones have a o-ring groove and this makes the contact patch very narrow, especially with a wheel spacer. With modified power and spool this results in destroyed wheel. Rears have no problems, diff takes the hit.

I think the 3.5 also comes with white springs all around, it needs something harder up front (like U2824 blues), but if you prefer other brands and have them available, you don't have to use Schumacher.

Longish post, but I hope it was helpful to you or anyone else in the same situation.
Just about what my list looks like, just forgot the blades, so that was a nice reminder *copy paste list into word*

Now and then I work at the norwegian importer, so it's not that big of a problem to get parts, but no shops stock parts for it. Norway is mainly Xray/Tamiya, and that's just about it. I'm just to eccentric to drive any of those:P
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Old 11-09-2008, 02:07 PM   #26985
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congrats on Adam on your win in sportsman 13.5!! (time to move up)
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