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Old 06-02-2008, 02:36 PM   #26176
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Originally Posted by seaball View Post
like marc stated, the 10.5 will give you way more power output. however, i haven't seen many people actually go faster with one than with a 19t (on the clock). i have been around the same speed with both for hot laps and over 5 minutes. however, i drive the 19t better and can drive in hotter with it due to the drag effect of a brushed motor. a 10.5 makes the car drive like it's broken. but it's something we're going to have to adapt to ...
Is that on carpet only? I can see it not really improving laptimes on a tight carpet track for a driver like me that is still learning. What about on a more open asphalt track. It seems the you'd be able to see a difference in laptimes since you might be able to lay down the power . . .
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:47 PM   #26177
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I'm so used to the 'feel' of brushless all I need now is massive 'hand-brake effect'. I've adapted using brakes w/my driving now, so dialing in the right amount & when, is proving itself to be somewhat of a challenge.
yup. though, i think most people are tuning their cars to scrub down a bit more with 10.5's (like a mod setup) so that push-brake still isn't being used. 10.5's need allot more steering than a 19t did. on-power it launches, and off power it freewheels. both conditions necessitate more steering in order to be able to drive hard.

(i miss you komodo dragon)
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:51 PM   #26178
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(i miss you komodo dragon)
Too bad it doesnt miss you.

Legend has it you have found many of good uses for your old stock/19t motors anyhow.

I also heard that Mod Foam is missing you just as badly....any truth to this?
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:19 PM   #26179
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Is that on carpet only? I can see it not really improving laptimes on a tight carpet track for a driver like me that is still learning. What about on a more open asphalt track. It seems the you'd be able to see a difference in laptimes since you might be able to lay down the power . . .
yeah, this is on carpet, with a farily normal track layout. (vegasesque) i can see your point, but the 10.5's tend to run out of top end quickly, and break traction out of the hole, so i wonder if my findings would be much different on asphalt.

the best way for me to put it, is that the car looks good with a 19t in it (and i do as well ). with a 10.5, it looks dumb. it's not making arcs in the right shape, it's floating out too much off-power , and the chassis (once there's enough steering) starts jerking all over the place because i'm now trying use the tires as a brake. think 1/8th scale nitro - solid axle! (okay - slight exaggeration).

the thing is, i'm one of few who like to use deceleration to transfer weight, instead of perpendicular front wheels. but with a 10.5 in, i'm having difficulty doing that and being fast. even with mods, they cog way more and the car will slow and transfer weight. the 10.5 power band is junk. it's like running an on/off switch with front and rear one-ways.

kevin - the track is missing me badly. though good for my psyche, i'm pretty much reserved to waiting it out until we open again for the fall. for now, it's just getting two good cars built up so i'm not wrenching when i should be driving after the doors open. say, does anyone make a 24 ball diff?
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:23 PM   #26180
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Thank you Franklin Poovey. I appreicate the explaination!
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:16 PM   #26181
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kevin - the track is missing me badly. though good for my psyche, i'm pretty much reserved to waiting it out until we open again for the fall. for now, it's just getting two good cars built up so i'm not wrenching when i should be driving after the doors open. say, does anyone make a 24 ball diff?
Think old diff with large balls...wait did I just say large balls...maybe a larger diff ring like on the cyclone....you can think of something im sure....its a long summer.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:06 PM   #26182
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Maybe that's why I'm always fiddlin', LOL
oh theres lots of reasons for your "fiddlin". not enough space on this fourm to start a list
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:29 PM   #26183
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Originally Posted by seaball View Post
yeah, this is on carpet, with a farily normal track layout. (vegasesque) i can see your point, but the 10.5's tend to run out of top end quickly, and break traction out of the hole, so i wonder if my findings would be much different on asphalt.

the best way for me to put it, is that the car looks good with a 19t in it (and i do as well ). with a 10.5, it looks dumb. it's not making arcs in the right shape, it's floating out too much off-power , and the chassis (once there's enough steering) starts jerking all over the place because i'm now trying use the tires as a brake. think 1/8th scale nitro - solid axle! (okay - slight exaggeration).

the thing is, i'm one of few who like to use deceleration to transfer weight, instead of perpendicular front wheels. but with a 10.5 in, i'm having difficulty doing that and being fast. even with mods, they cog way more and the car will slow and transfer weight. the 10.5 power band is junk. it's like running an on/off switch with front and rear one-ways.

kevin - the track is missing me badly. though good for my psyche, i'm pretty much reserved to waiting it out until we open again for the fall. for now, it's just getting two good cars built up so i'm not wrenching when i should be driving after the doors open. say, does anyone make a 24 ball diff?
I know you're into going faster but try a 13.5; I think you'll like the 'characteristics' ALOT better. Even though I do miss running 10.5. Our track is 88'x50' and ALOT of our layouts lately favor the 1/12 scales. So 10.5's sort of 'overpower' the layouts (especially in sedans w/6-8 cars). 13.5's are perfect speed.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:39 PM   #26184
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Default Front Arms and Droop Screws

Guys, when you pop the shocks off in the front should the front arms/droop screws touch the chassis? Mine don't, it seems like they should?
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:19 PM   #26185
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Guys, when you pop the shocks off in the front should the front arms/droop screws touch the chassis? Mine don't, it seems like they should?
check your hinge pins
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:35 PM   #26186
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Guys, when you pop the shocks off in the front should the front arms/droop screws touch the chassis? Mine don't, it seems like they should?
hmmm maybe and then again maybe not - are the hinge pins bent? I figure you probably already thought of that one though. So how about this - dettach the camber link and see if the arm touchs the chassis now. If it does, then check your the links and link mounts to see if they are bent. If that is not the case the look at the ball grippa and see if it is not allowing the arm to have full range of motion. That about all I can think of right now. I know there are a guys few out there that might have someelse to add.

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Old 06-02-2008, 07:42 PM   #26187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
I know you're into going faster but try a 13.5; I think you'll like the 'characteristics' ALOT better. Even though I do miss running 10.5. Our track is 88'x50' and ALOT of our layouts lately favor the 1/12 scales. So 10.5's sort of 'overpower' the layouts (especially in sedans w/6-8 cars). 13.5's are perfect speed.
I have found the same thing, 13.5 is an awsome speed for nearly everyone and I love it. Espeically on tighter carpet tracks, it can lead to some awsome racing.
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Old 06-02-2008, 08:13 PM   #26188
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Guys, when you pop the shocks off in the front should the front arms/droop screws touch the chassis? Mine don't, it seems like they should?
your castor blocks are likely hitting that nub that sticks into the mouth (the rear of the outter shock hole). if not that, they are hitting the arm on the rear side where the castor block begings to fatten up. just shave some material with an x-acto. you shouldn't need much more plunge than you're already getting (unless your castor blocks are on backwards).

that's my bet.
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Old 06-02-2008, 08:51 PM   #26189
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Thanks for the tips.
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:50 PM   #26190
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What is the approximate spring stiffness for the Schumacher White springs?
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