Schumacher Corner
#2536
Tech Adept
Jack,
Are you running the 1 hole (outside) on the hub carrier? If so, the position of the turnbuckle plays a key role in the strength of the arm. Try threading it into the arm farther and out more on the ball cup side. I started with the turnbuckle threaded in full on both sides then unthreaded the ball cup 4 turns. I then install on the car and set my camber from there. This leaves more of the turnbuckle in the arm. After three months of racing I have only broken one front bumber. My Mission is the strongest car on the track.
Good luck,
Dave
Are you running the 1 hole (outside) on the hub carrier? If so, the position of the turnbuckle plays a key role in the strength of the arm. Try threading it into the arm farther and out more on the ball cup side. I started with the turnbuckle threaded in full on both sides then unthreaded the ball cup 4 turns. I then install on the car and set my camber from there. This leaves more of the turnbuckle in the arm. After three months of racing I have only broken one front bumber. My Mission is the strongest car on the track.
Good luck,
Dave
#2538
Tech Addict
anyone see the new chasse yet? It looks really nice and very fast.
#2539
Tech Regular
RacerX..thanks for the procedure and pics...very helpful. I have been chatting with Larry Pryor also, who has been extremely helpful...just got to order those parts now. Cool little brace you fashioned..
Pit racer...looks like the carpet may not be an option much longer, so I guess we get to duke it out on the pavement again...bring it and lets rock and roll!!
Pit racer...looks like the carpet may not be an option much longer, so I guess we get to duke it out on the pavement again...bring it and lets rock and roll!!
#2540
Breaking arms?
It's so rare I break an arm, especially an upper one. I can only imagine you may have something installed improperly or something. To break one every week? wow, that seems way different from anyone I've ever known to have any Schumacher. I hope you are able to figure out why you are having this problem. It's really a great platform to race with, by far my favorite of the cars I've raced/built/etc. myself. One of it's strongest selling points is that the car rarely breaks.
#2541
Tech Initiate
breaking arms
These are deffinately our favorite Sedans. we just seem to be breaking arms. The first month we didn't break anything. I know I broke a couple when i went down the straight and was up against the wall. I figured the axle caught in the wood and cracked the arm. It has just been recently that we have broke a bunch of them. We have been racing for 13 years and we aren't hitting everything on the track. Just thought I would check and see if anyone else was having the same problem. Thanks for your help.
#2542
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
4JW.....Im not going to say that I have never broken an arm on my car b/c that would be a lie. What alot of it has to do with is the type of track you race on if they have hard walls or corners. If they do you will break stuff when hitting it. If you do like some of the other guys said and thread more into the arm and less into the ball cup it will last longer and they might crack or bend in a hard hit but most times not break so bad that you can not finnish the run. I change my upper arms often about once a month and I race about 2 times a week and am far from hitting everything on the track. I hope this helps.
#2543
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Originally Quoted By KevinK I change my upper arms often about once a month and I race about 2 times a week and am far from hitting everything on the track. I hope this helps.
#2544
A neat old trick is to get an old hinge pin, smear it lightly with C.A, and slide it through the bulkead...
then wait for a few mins for it to set, and teh slop will be gone..
the bulkheads should be a nice firm fit on teh hingepins, so that a little force is required to remove the pins.
Note, when using teh Titanium upper pins, you need to lightly ream out the holes with a drill bit for the Pins to fit, as they are slightly wider.
to remove the slop you are talking about, you can either replace your upper arms often, or lightly wipe on some C.A over each end of the bulkeads, then lightly sand smooth with some Wet and dry to get a smooth finish.
If the slop is real bad, also do this to the insides of the arms which contact the bulkead...a little experimentation is required to get the right amount of friction so there is no slop, but still moves freely.
then wait for a few mins for it to set, and teh slop will be gone..
the bulkheads should be a nice firm fit on teh hingepins, so that a little force is required to remove the pins.
Note, when using teh Titanium upper pins, you need to lightly ream out the holes with a drill bit for the Pins to fit, as they are slightly wider.
to remove the slop you are talking about, you can either replace your upper arms often, or lightly wipe on some C.A over each end of the bulkeads, then lightly sand smooth with some Wet and dry to get a smooth finish.
If the slop is real bad, also do this to the insides of the arms which contact the bulkead...a little experimentation is required to get the right amount of friction so there is no slop, but still moves freely.
#2545
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
The tierods are sometimes bent you can notice this when you go to adjust camber and the angle of the upper arm changes. They wear out where the tie rod goes into the arm and gets sloppy. Unless you race on a track that has no boards and used curbs like Tamiya's track, then the arms will last a lot longer. Here in the midwest the tracks are very tight and most are made with 2x4's or hard PVC pipe that is very unforgiving on the car. You might be surprized if you check your camber and go to adjust it and watch how everything moves in different directions thats b/c the tie rods are bent.
#2546
interesting Kevin...I havent had that problem, but will look out for it now we are running more on indoors...
Ive seen some guys using the Titanium upper turnbuckes..these are the only ones I havent got..
hmm might be a good excuse to get the last hopups for my car
Ive seen some guys using the Titanium upper turnbuckes..these are the only ones I havent got..
hmm might be a good excuse to get the last hopups for my car
#2547
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
King-G...I have tried the Titianium tie rods and they did last longer but still bent over time and are just more expensive to replace. When a rod bends it usually ovals the hole in the arm so you need to replace the arm anyway and the tie rods that come in the arms are fine. Like I said the tracks here are very unforgiving and when you crash you crash hard most track are only about 7 to 8 feet wide for lanes so thats really tight. It does teach you to drive very tight lines but a little to tight and you gonna have to replace some stuff. I just wanted to let 4Jw know that hes not the only person that breaks stuff on the car.
#2548
Guys, some might be interested to see some pics of my car taken last week..
http://www.imagefile.net/tftr/forum/...p?TOPIC_ID=930
a couple of hopups! (i need more, must feed addiction):
Titanium turnbuckles (everyone except upper arms)
Titanium Hingepins Lower and upper
Titanium Screws Plus some of those countersunk purple washers =)
Alloy Layshaft Pulley
Alloy Wheel hex adaptors
Alloy Wheel nuts
Alloy Layshaft supports
Alloy gearboxes F/R
Threaded Shock bodies
Alloy shock bottoms
Alloy battery posts
Ultraflex front belt
Oneway Diff
Note, none of these are needed, I just decided to do it to show off the full range of hopups we have =)
http://www.imagefile.net/tftr/forum/...p?TOPIC_ID=930
a couple of hopups! (i need more, must feed addiction):
Titanium turnbuckles (everyone except upper arms)
Titanium Hingepins Lower and upper
Titanium Screws Plus some of those countersunk purple washers =)
Alloy Layshaft Pulley
Alloy Wheel hex adaptors
Alloy Wheel nuts
Alloy Layshaft supports
Alloy gearboxes F/R
Threaded Shock bodies
Alloy shock bottoms
Alloy battery posts
Ultraflex front belt
Oneway Diff
Note, none of these are needed, I just decided to do it to show off the full range of hopups we have =)
Last edited by King-G; 07-22-2002 at 08:10 PM.