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Old 03-05-2008, 02:33 PM   #25321
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My SP10.5 is still slower than Novak 10.5 w/ 13mm rotors. I've tried pretty much everything, and still cant be as fast as they are down the straight, which will give them about a .4 / .5 sec per lap advantage

I've even geared down to like 4.66 FDR and ran timing all the way up to #9 and still no up to speed.

I'll be doing some more testing later today and try and figure out what the pblm might be.

My 10.5SP vs Novak 10.5 with std rotor are pretty much equal...the problem is when they install the 13mm rotors on the Novak 10.5- they can gear down and run cooler and get more rip and top end and makes my 10.5 look sloooooooowww...I have to figure this out ASAP

Las week FSEARA race#2 at MDI, for the mains I geared at 4.70FDR using timing #6, and it was defenitely faster and could hang witht he 10.5 Novak w/ 13mm rotors, but then it started cogging and suddenly stop for about a second or two, then it would allow me run again for about a a lap or two, then stop again, untill I got hacked. Maybe it was thermal shutdown? Dont know, but if it was, I had a fan on the ESC and fan+heatsink on motor, and it should not have been thermaling. I dont think it was thermal, but rather possible wire/soldering connections to motor or esc?...Dont know.

But geared at 4.70FDR with timing #6 was the fastest its been so far down the straight; not as fast as 10.5 Novak w/ 13mm rotors, but very, very close, so that I was pulling 13.7-8 sec lap times consistently, untill it began stalling on me....the Novak 10.5 w/13mm rotors where just a bit faster down the straight, which I can live with.

Any suggestions/tips from those of you running on outdoor asphalt tracks(rubber tires).?
We have yet to figure this one out as well. The 13.5 runs out the back door, but we are struggling to find the combo on the 10.5. We have geared up/down and timed up/down. We get the same results with an LRP esc, Novak, and the SP GT.
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:04 PM   #25322
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Have you guys truly found the 13.5 to be faster than the Novak 13.5? On big tracks or small?

I was thinking about trying an SP 10.5 to replace my Novak for our outdoor season, but I guess I'll hold off and see if you guys figure out what's going on with them.
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:27 PM   #25323
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Lessard, your little south park avatar should have his eyes shut cause you cant stay awake long enough to finish a race
Adam - on it!

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Old 03-05-2008, 04:32 PM   #25324
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Have you guys truly found the 13.5 to be faster than the Novak 13.5? On big tracks or small?

I was thinking about trying an SP 10.5 to replace my Novak for our outdoor season, but I guess I'll hold off and see if you guys figure out what's going on with them.
Faster. Very close and maybe a touch faster, but the biggest thing is they are consistent motor to motor. I find the "N" motors to be extremely inconsistent. If I buy 5 of them 2 are good, 2 are horrible, and 1 just gets around decent.
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Old 03-05-2008, 06:25 PM   #25325
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Originally Posted by RBLove View Post
We have yet to figure this one out as well. The 13.5 runs out the back door, but we are struggling to find the combo on the 10.5. We have geared up/down and timed up/down. We get the same results with an LRP esc, Novak, and the SP GT.
I think I've finally solved my slow 10.5 issues, thanks to advice from Mike Haynes on the SPeedPassion thread, and E4 overlord Marcos Jennings...

For outdoor asphalt, geared 4.23 FDR is was able to keep up with the very fast Novaks 10.5 and 13mm rotors and temps were below 155F

Gearing in the 4.80FDR range using max timing also works, maing this a very fast combo which didnt shutdown/thermal after 10 minutes running on 84F weather and 113F track temp.
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Old 03-05-2008, 07:55 PM   #25326
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Have you guys truly found the 13.5 to be faster than the Novak 13.5? On big tracks or small?

I was thinking about trying an SP 10.5 to replace my Novak for our outdoor season, but I guess I'll hold off and see if you guys figure out what's going on with them.
Syn,
AFAIK, Johan was the most prominent driver having a difficult time getting the SP10.5 up to par. Sounds like thats all in the past now though!

I say jump on the bandwagon and get you some rip!
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:16 PM   #25327
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Hi guys
I'm just wondering is that normal to have an 1-2mm servo movement almost ever time I hit the throttle ? or what cause an that type of problem?
TX 3PK futaba RX,
Ko propo 2363 digital servo,
Trackpower 4900 Lipo &
Tekin fx-r Pro esc
Thanx in advanced...
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:36 PM   #25328
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Wheres the movement coming from? Is it play in the ball cups, play on the servo horn to the servo, or is it a culmination of all the steering components resulting in the 1-2mm?

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Hi guys
I'm just wondering is that normal to have an 1-2mm servo movement almost ever time I hit the throttle ? or what cause an that type of problem?
TX 3PK futaba RX,
Ko propo 2363 digital servo,
Trackpower 4900 Lipo &
Tekin fx-r Pro esc
Thanx in advanced...
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:25 PM   #25329
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Hi guys
I'm just wondering is that normal to have an 1-2mm servo movement almost ever time I hit the throttle ? or what cause an that type of problem?
TX 3PK futaba RX,
Ko propo 2363 digital servo,
Trackpower 4900 Lipo &
Tekin fx-r Pro esc
Thanx in advanced...
Is the servo itself actually moving? If so, you've got a glitch somewhere.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:49 PM   #25330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Hi guys
I'm just wondering is that normal to have an 1-2mm servo movement almost ever time I hit the throttle ? or what cause an that type of problem?
TX 3PK futaba RX,
Ko propo 2363 digital servo,
Trackpower 4900 Lipo &
Tekin fx-r Pro esc
Thanx in advanced...
Does it happen if the car is far away from the radio or only if it's right next to you? What about whether the car is on the ground or in the air?
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:16 AM   #25331
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try this:

Get a plastic bag or something of that material and place it on top of the ball cuplet. Then click the link onto the ballcublet and it should just slice a circle out of the plastic, stops movement when you pull the trigger.
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:47 AM   #25332
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play starts on servo horn than effects all steering when car on air...on track at full throttle car goes to left like it's been tweaked...that's why I check the servo...but at the same time i use lipo without a right to left balancing....rear toe in .5 to 1 degree different from right to left i don' t know how to cure it...
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:49 AM   #25333
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The arms will work left to right....if not, then I've been doing stuff way wrong for a while!

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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
play starts on servo horn than effects all steering when car on air...on track at full throttle car goes to left like it's been tweaked...that's why I check the servo...but at the same time i use lipo without a right to left balancing....rear toe in .5 to 1 degree different from right to left i don' t know how to cure it...
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
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Old 03-06-2008, 07:35 AM   #25334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
play starts on servo horn than effects all steering when car on air...on track at full throttle car goes to left like it's been tweaked...that's why I check the servo...but at the same time i use lipo without a right to left balancing....rear toe in .5 to 1 degree different from right to left i don' t know how to cure it...
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
yokemad if your still having trouble with your servo try checking the splines on the servo horn ,then if that don't work try switching it out with another servo to see if you have a bad servo that's not recentering right.as for the car not having the same rear toe right to left first check your car to make sure your washers are the same both right and left on the rear screw blocks if there all equal check to make sure you don't have a bent hinge pin hope this helps..
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:07 AM   #25335
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thanx guys
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